攀登 in Hanging Rock

Forgot a lot about this route since I TR solo'd it around a year ago.

Dropped it at the last draw, climbed into an irreversible position 🤦🏻‍♂️ Broke a couple of crimps off on the way up, totally forgot that a 3-4 cam can take the anxiety out of the main runout between bolts 🤦🏻‍♂️

Love the Climbing and the position

Had an amazing afternoon out

Hanging Rock is awesome

Annoyed I dropped it, I'm not disappointed I'll be getting back on it

Probably 25, not just because of the position.

Aaand the wheels fell off... tiiiired.

Pitch 1 was cool steep bouldering with funky knee-bar trickery, and the onsight went well... until it didn't... but I tried bloody hard - a funky cool little pitch.

Pitch 2 is more bum-rock climbing on runout carrots, but quite bouldery and more sustained. I made it to the last of the hard face moves, but couldn't figure it out (even off the carrot) and couldn't aid past it... by this point my head-game was shot from the day, so I downclimbed and bailed.

I used a 0.5 cam at the start of P2.

With a 60cm runner on the anchor at the end of P1, there was no issue linking these pitches together.

Im giving this classic even with some shitty bolting, and dusty holds. Very Arapilean, asit wanders around between gear, holds, and brackets (only the first bolt off the ground is a carrot) on classy bum rock. This is probably the only route I genuinely enjoyed here.

I used a 0.5 and 2 cam.

With a few long runners, rope drag was not a problem on a single rope.

Awesome rock at the crux. Seems doable. Someone should go send it.

Very unlikely novelty traversing, but the carrots are garbage (at stupid angles to the rock, and unfiled heads makes getting plates on a nightmare) and getting to the first bolt is death.

I was on this for a loooong time on the onsight, struggling to find the holds/line on an untrafficked and weird route.

Bring a 0.5 and 0.4 cam for the first half.

A few okay moves up a thin orange face, but consistently snappy rock, and pretty sketchy equipping. Not recommended.

I used a 2 and 0.4 cam in the initial corner, and a 3 to back up a crappy bolt higher up.

this felt wild AF on my own

Last pitch - grade 17 - to get out.

Very run out, even with trying to place gear. Climbing very sustained and felt hard for 23. Hard to pick the line with the bolts soooo spaced out. Awesome route with some very nice moves.

Only did the last pitch to get back out - grade 17 in guide.

Rain got us on this one. But the start really freaked me, loose and exposed. Above looks much better

I think the climbing and rock are probably 2 stars but the exposure and overall position are easily 3 stars. When the wall cuts away beneath you right as you get to the belay... you really start questioning your choices. Why do I do this? Why do I choose to put myself in these situations? Why is this still kinda scary even though I'm still on the rap line?

Definitely worth the walk out there.

Seconding Josh. Much more sustained than I expected! Proper hard slabbing with hundreds of metres of exposure. 4 rather gnarly and varied cruxes, but there's almost no "giveaway" sequences on the entire route. I really struggled with the second crux, which -weirdly- I'm too short to do the logical way, but I can conceive of linking the rest fairly quickly. Awesome position and climbing, marred only by some rather temporary key holds.

Stunning line. Bailed off the 8th bolt before the runouts. Be back soon

Certainly not to everyone’s tastes, but this route really has it all. Exposure, rock quality, movement and adventure... and a little excitement. Thanks Frothy for all the beta, even if I didn’t use any of it!

Pitch one is and exciting traverse. Pitch two is definitely the money. A worthwhile adventure route. Climb out option is available after the placement of a few additional bolts. Above final anchors to ledge, left through cave and up. Rock quality is terrible but may be more enjoyable than the ‘rap-reverse-jug’ option. Probably depends how much choss you can handle

Repeat. Seconding Josh's Send. Very "out there" and featuring some dubious rock... but freaking mega regardless. Better and more fun (and easier) than I remember. A pleasure

Awesome position, and definitely "out there". Old school face adventure where the difficulty is as much in the route finding (especially on the chalkless ground-up onsight) as it is in the moves. With only 8 carrots on P2, its rather "gripping". The traverse on P1 is kinda slippery, and has a proper hard crux for a warmup. Totally worthwhile... but Wild Wild West is probably better

Couldn’t pull my head together for a lead go but i got it on second for the warm up. I need a break from all this scary shit. Radical to belay Paul’s send though

Top Rope play at EOD, 4 years after I last sussed it. Probably better than I remember it, but still not great. Basically very average rock comprising a radical pumpy exposed 25... tainted by a contrived 3-move hideous crimp crux to give it the grade. Very intimidating position.

Had to come back to get this one squared-away. Still had to try hard, but felt in control the whole way. If the rock were better, and the access not so irritating (though to be expected for this part of the world) this would be a proper classic. Still very worthy, though.

Quite scary. Also quite excellent. Probably 25.

EOD lap clean on 2nd taking off the gear and bolt plates. No time (and mixed motivation) for another lap on lead, so this will have to suffice for the interim.

Tried bloody hard on the no-beta flash, surviving flashpump into debacle after debacle of misread moves, until finally falling off on the last hard move, 3m from the top, screaming and whimpering all the while. Aw well, I can't say I didn't give it everything. Maybe not so nails for the chalksight, but I found it quite cryptic and insecure. Mega position and climbing, average rock and access. Wandery, varied and super-sustained. Probably 25 (as per the current guide).

Belayed Zac for the send. Pitch 2 seconded in approach shoes. Great position, bit exposed but not too bad.

Just the last pitch to exit; fantastic position and is only hard for the first 3 metres; then a doddle. There was an absolute MONSTER run-out about halfway or so up.

Someone is definitely taking the piss by calling this a 23; seconded and fought hard to get through this, but my pump-o-meter had overloaded and exploded. Pumped STUPID. What a line and position though, so much respect to Paul!

Hard and exciting! A lot of commitment required on the first move, with pretty ugly fall potential if you mess up! Lots of fear and overgripping and called it quits about 6 or 7 bolts up, before the big run outs! Yikes!

P4 only to escape Wild, Wild West ledge at the end of the day... A hard move off the belay, then quite runout up high (though I was climbing pretty quick to avoid the approaching night, and might've failed to see some crucial gear). Fun exposed easy climbing on average rock, and quite runout.

What's with the new 3x glued-in 14mm threaded rod (with no hangers or nuts) 3/4 of the way up this pitch? Commercial belay station?

2nd shot. Puts all the routes UNDER 25 at Shipley to shame... this thing is nails and sustained over the entire 45m! The pure onsight attempt was a titanic and draining battle, from being shaky setting off (its intimidating out there!) to trying to figure out this run-out, wandery route over a 1-hour struggle, to finally misreading one of the cruxes (I tried to go too direct) and falling off after so much effort. D'oh! The route is very onsightable (chalk-sight-able?) with my chalk on it now, so have at it! I wasn't going to give it a 2nd shot but my belayer talked me into it. 2nd shot was solid and controlled, but still hard. Classic, old-school Blueys face climbing, in a "way out there" location. Sustained and demanding, and beautiful.

This is what I would call an "old school" 19.... run out, adventurous, and pretty f'ing hard!! In other words, great fun, but I will readily admit I'm glad I wasn't leading the first two pitches...

Abseil: (1) 50m off tree to chain, (2) 55m to trees and bolt, (3) 40m to ledge with small tree.

Pitch 1 (19): Led by Tim

Pitch 2 (19): Led by Tim

Pitch 3 (16): Led by Bibi

Pitch 4 (17): Led by Tim

Only tried the last half on toprope solo. Exposed, Hard and all round awesome

23? yeah right. super thin, super technical, super awesome. much harder than a 23 and took multiple rests and had to work out the sequence many times.

Too Rope Solo investigatory lap. A climb ive always wanted to do (thanks mostly to Simon Carter's photo), and figured I'd have a look before dragging out a belayer. Ridiculously exposed and very steep - Rope soloing this was scary enough, and made me feel very small. P1 has a bouldery thin/sharp crux from 2nd - 4th bolt, and sustained 24/25 face and arete climbing above. The crux is contrived to force the difficulty. I had lots of falls. P2 is easy slab/face climbing (which I did clean on TRS).

Only did the last pitch to escape the ledge. Good wall climbing with some mega runouts but the climbing is easy.

Well its got all the elements blue mountains trad climbing. loose, crap rock, plants, running out of gear all the fun stuff. Some good climbing but i wouldn't be in a rush to get back on this.