线路 in Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head

8m left of BDFH at stepped arete, left of undercut chimney. Right wall of arete (#2.5 friend, BR) to ledge (big friend). Left of undercut arete (2 BRs) to friends at big ledge. Off left or up slab.

Named after the internationally toured show of Penny Arcade. See Wikipedia

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bitch!Dyke!Faghag!_Whore!

Start as for FtF. Right at BR to small cam on right. Join EaD on right of spiky bush (medium cam).

Start at burnt grasstrees 2m left of TSaH. Slab (cam, BR, wire) to ledge. 2 FHs up flake to jug (BR). Up left to break (#4 rock and medium cam) & scoop. Two BR, sling, FH and cams through headwall to cvams and BB above 'beak'.

Location of route not known - it is not between Frou Frou and The Son and Heir. This is not recorded in the old SRC guidebook where all the other routes were described.

Another almost a sport route up the excellent wall. This was the only route given 3 stars at Wades World in the original '90s SRC guidebook. Climb the dark slab (wires, bolt, cams) to ledge. Up and slight right (3 bolts). Up and slight left (2 bolts). Two more bolts gains the small ledge and bolt belay.

The main line of the wall with a spectacular line of orange scoops in the upper half. Unfortunately some of the holds can be a bit dirty from the runoff from above - but this is easily brushed off on lead. Start up the major right facing corner (good medium cams) and mantle onto ledge (optional belay on double bolts). Blast up the bolt protected orange wall above to belay on ledge off burnt out trees (!). It would be totally possible to lead the top section as a sport route if you rapped in to the ledge above the corner.

Good clean fun and mostly only grade 20. This is almost a sport route - only a couple of bits of trad required in the easy sections. Climb the slab squeezed between the corner and the flake (cams and bolt) to small ledge. Blast up the water washed scoops above past many bolts. A cam or so protects the last easy jugs to the belay ledge (use burnt trees!).

Remarkable wall climbing at the grade. Easily up flake crack (wires) to small ledge. Big cam and a wire in the break protects the short wall to reach the first bolt. Finish up mega orange juggy face past another 5 bolts. A sling protects the last couple of metres to top. Belay off two bolts on the edge of the ledge or the rap chain above the left end of cave. Rebolted 2022.

Starts just right of AWATR. Slab past BR. Slight right to traverse line. 15m right (?!) to line of monster jugs. Up to cave (cams & bolt belay). Wires and cams.

Big orange corner opposite the detached block. Marked as a sport route but surely it needs some trad?

1. (24) Corner to belay under roof.

2. (23) Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start 30m right of TM under the obvious soaring square arete.

1. 24m (20) Corner to bolt, left to DBB on arete. 4 carrots, #3 cam.

2. 35m (24) Arete to chain. 9 carrots, 2 FHs.

3. 28m (24) Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete to DBB. 5 carrots. To rap from here take hero loops (or maybe something more permanent). Rap 30m to chain, then 50m to ground.

Start 15m right of TS. Cairn & flake.

1. Up to ledge. Ignore the carrots, that's a hard variant start.

2. Flakes to roof, up, right on loose block and up to chain. 7 bolts.

3. Ramp to arete, to big ledge, up wall, left around roofs then right across wall to rap point (30m to chain then 50m to ground). Double ropes.

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

There's a few newish-looking bolts up the middle of the wall between Tuxedo Mask and Power Vacuum with DRB at the top.

"A surprisingly long climb despite appearances from below. Two fairly good pitches...spoiled somewhat by a scrappy finish." The first route climbed at Ikara in 1974 by discoverers, K. Bell and I. Thomas. Was previously named Casserole Corner by them in memory of the prevailing cuisine of the time.

Start 20m R of TM at the clean wide crack leading to a V groove with a bush in it.

1. 40m 17. Offwidth, chimney, bush, squeeze to ledge.

2. 35m 17. Steep corner to ledge then small corner to small ledge. Abandon the corner and head L across wall to nose, L across slab to ledge/bush.

3. 45m. Up and R via scrub, terraces and corners.

1. 30m (17) Start up PV to the ledge, then up the arete to to the R passing 2 BR.

2. 40m (16) Continue up PV to ledge (ignoring bolt on wall to L, which is a gr 20 variant), then L to crack. Follow crack through roof, and continue until it is blocked by vegetation. Head up and L across slab past bolt to large ledge (1 bolt + cam belay).

3. 25m (19) Up face past 2 bolts, then 15 m left along ledge to 2 bolt belay. Good nut to avoid big swing for second.

4. 20m (15) Carefully up face passing bolt and a couple of cam breaks to 2 bolt belay at top.

Start 2 m R of PV, up pockets past bolt to ledge. up to next ledge past bolt, then R to shallow R facing corner/flake. L up this past BR to PV pitch 1 ledge & 2 rings.

On the same wall as Club Mac. Starts in vague scoop to the left of Octonauts, 3m R of PV. Lots of cams.

1. 27m Leftwards up through scoop onto wall and up to bolt with fixed hanger. Move left then up groove above to top.

Start 4 m right of PV. Up groove to chimney and offwidth squeeze chimney. Belay on slings on ledge.

This seems likely to be a repeat of Jezebel p1 because that’s the only big corner matching this info.

"Big orange corner 30m right again. Up corner to slings."

The aid (originally a few bolts) at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend. Start 33m right of PV at obvious right trending wide yellow crack/corner system. Marked with J.

1. 30m (18) Stem up featured corner system that funnels into a chimney near the top. Traverse right 4m to semi-hanging belay off rap chains. Lots of long slings useful on this pitch.

2. 30m (22) Burly, slick and spectacular. The right trending wide crack breaching the upper headwall. Belay at top off trad and pretty awful tree belay.

Reportedly you can rap from here to ground with 50m rope, however as of oct 2021, tree did not appear suitable for abseil.

1. 30m Easy grey slab to top.

Sustained and varied climbing up a truly superb finger crack. Marked with AS. Start 7m right of J at short crack in block and finish at the rap chains shared with Jezebel (in great nick as at 2021). Easy for the grade. 65m rope to lower off to the ground; 60m should certainly get you down to the pedestal.

...they must have been fighting for it!

Start 7m right of A. 11 old-ish carrots up the good looking face to the new chains of Jezebel. Would be easily TRed off these chains if you don't like the look of the old carrots.

A continuous, soaring, well-protected crack with minimal crack-climbing required. Generally excellent rock, with brief suspect rock near top. Takes a wide mixture of gear, and consider saving a #4 cam and a #3/#2 cam for that final traverse).

Start most of the way up the ramp/slot (about 5m left of Blast Off ). Up obvious crack, trending left. 2m below the shale ledge, traverse left for about 10m along a clean break, then step down to the Jezebel chains.

Rap 30m from here to large block. 70m rope is ample to lower off if the leader would rather belay on the ground.

Probably done before, but it's a decent line and worth recording. Crack, ~ 2m to the right of the R facing corner almost directly below Blast Off. Up the clean hand/off width crack to ledge.

An amazing line and excellent climbing. Starts on top of large detached pillar, 25m up and R of A, which is accessed from a slot at the back which starts 10m R of A.

1. 20m (18) Fingercrack to ledge and DRB.

2. 50m (22) To infinity, and beyond! Some extra BD #0.3-0.75 and a #5 will come in handy.

Rap down from chains under small overhang just below the summit in two pitches (~50m, 20m) or walk off.

Starts from the top of a block, 10m right of BO. It's a great shame p2 is bracketed by the rubbish of p1&3, as it is one of the finest pieces of crack climbing you will find in the Mountains, blasting up a beautiful orange wall on mostly great rock in a stunning position.

1. 20m 16. Start off block on good holds left of the death blocks and traverse right on sandy, chossy jugs to crack and ledge. Follow poxy corner crack to ledge (new DRB, old carrot). Very poor rock and pro for 10m, then okay cams in horizontals after that (but the rock is still bad).

2. 35m 25. Step down then right from the belay to the amazing leftwards diagonal hand and finger crack, to new DRB. Has humbled most repeat attempts, emphasising Steve's impressive onsight FFA. Double rack #0.2 to #3 with triples from #0.3 to #2 handy, especially for cleaning.

3. 25m. Not part of the original route (which ended at fixed wires), and adds less than zero value, so feel free to skip this deathy unprotected grovel to DRB over the top. You can either step left and pull the roof (unprotected) then quest up to the top OR traverse a long ways right to the Telstar exit (also unprotected). Or rap off...

Whoopy!

Start 43m right of BO. Crack/groove system below a terrifying roof.

1. 30m (18) Up hand crack bypassing 2 small roofs (stick right) to belay in alcove at start of bomb-bay chimney.

2. 15m (17) Out bottomless/bomb-bay chimney to turn lip of roof then up slightly to small stance. Build a semi-hanging belay or continue up pitch 3.

3. 20m (19) Up crack to belay at tree.

4. 15m (8) To exit traverse right 2m then up corner and groove to large tree. Up easy slab for 5m to the top.

Clean and varied corner, 30 meters right of Telstar.

Start at small finger crack then up slabby corner to rings. Anchor replaced 2022. Any information about name and FFA history please update.

"The climb that Ikara is famous for and the only one that most people have heard of!" - A.Penney 1982. The painted initial is mistakenly a ‘K’, but it is definitely Caladan with a C, a reference to Frank Herbert's Dune series.

Start at major corner below crack 33m right of T. Anchors replaced 2022. A 60m rope will just reach, tie a knot in the end!

Start on right side of arete 4m right of C. 10 very rusty old carrots. Up to ledge shared with L&W, then right and up wall and flakes to the Caladan rap anchor.

The nice clean corner crack 3m R of CT.

Direct lower-offs added 2022 (rings), which means you no longer have to link it into Caladan or rap off dodgy pin and carrot.

Arete 30m right of CT. Carrots & FHs to TBB.

"An excellent excursion for a hot day. Some tube runners are useful on the 2nd pitch." Right facing corner about 30m R of C. Scramble 10m R up from SM to base of corner.

1. 25m 17: Climb trees up corner to belay cave some large cams and shrub runners. Sling boulder to belay.

2. 30m 14R: Climb center of the chimney past a small nut. Then no gear except for a blue big bro to the top.

20m R of WM.

1. Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby.

2. Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack.

Start 90m right of C. Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - small corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take care with pro after the crack fizzles.

A varied climb with a bit of everything. Start 65m right of of WC. Shale band with roof crack above.

1. 20m 22. Choss (2 BRs, PR) to roof, then up crack.

2. 15m. Thin R wall, wires, big ledge.

3. 15m. Walk L, up corner.

To block, corner, crack, left to ledge and rap. Start 150m right of PU. Track below steep crack right of small black chimney.

180m R of Pin Ups. Just past big arete. This had been climbed to a trad lower off, but now goes free to the top of the left crack with a lower off. Beautiful orange corner 19ish to a bolt at the blocks. Delicately up not pulling anything off and left to a seam, small blue alien used here to get into it..... very balance and committing to get into it and up on to the ledge. Shake it out and then enjoy some grunty laybacking to a hard crack finish.... A 70m rope will get you to the ground... I haven't been able to find any details on the history of this climb....

Start 20m right of big orange corner. Sounds like it needs to be freed.

1. Wide crack, blocks, thin crack (aid) to ledge.

2. Zig zag crack then right to belay.

3. Up.

One really long and sustained wall pitch and one short exit pitch. Rock quality isn't immaculate but it's a gorgeous line of least resistance with no escape for the forearms. Approach: walk in as for Thor Head main wall (down to Asgard Swamp and up the ridge until the views of the Grose reveal themselves). The track flattens out on this ridge and about 50m before Thor Head main wall the track drops slightly to a rocky flat area which is a good lookout. Exit tourist track on the right side just before this and walk back along edge of cliffline past small sandy cave for 30m to find fixed rope tied around small trees (GPS -33.5512, 150.2991 - refer to topo). Rap down this rope for 5m to ledge - walk across this (clipped into fixed rope) for 10m to rap anchors in small cave. Best to FIX a 60m+ rope to this anchor and bomb straight down to ledge and start of route. This bottom ledge is big and comfy and safe to walk around on unroped.

1. 50m (26) Long complex wall and flake features that doesn’t let up the whole way. Has a bit of a traverse right in the middle and a traverse left near the end. Belay on good ledge at two FHs. 25+ bolts.

2. 15m (18) Hangers up wall and corner right of the belay to rap anchors that you rapped in from. 4 bolts.

Great little trad outing with a stellar middle pitch. First pitch blocky crack to corner, leading to a belay ledge. There are 3 variant cracks for the middle pitch. The stellar right hand, finer crack is superb. Then there is a wide book corner to the top that will take a five cam.

The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.

Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)

1. 25m (22) Up chossy flake (scary start) and leftwards up featured wall past a few old bash in carrots to belay ledge at double rings.

2. 50m (24) Climb nice orange ripply face on right side of arete past a band of choss to good stance at 25m. Ignore the nice shiny u-bolts going right, and climb the dirtier arete direct on old carrots.

The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.

Another goodly long face route.

Fix 70m rope off large tree 5m south of Raving Bull anchors and rap down huge orange face to belay ledge about 5m down and right of the left arete of the wall.

1. 15m (24) Mossy slab for a few metres then straight up reachy orange face on cool pockets to join into Hurt It etc for two bolts then traverse right across hand ledge to semi-hanging belay at small ledge at double u-bolts.

2. 40m (25) Onward up epic orange face. Sustained to the very last move. 17 bolts - some long runners reduce rope drag.

Excellent red wall. Top pitch makes a good warmup for the other routes.

Fix a 60m+ rope and rap from three rings under southern end of summit blob. Marked with a painted R. Belay at base of grand orange wall above mossy slab on twin rings.

1. 37m (25) Superb rock. Sustained and reachy vertical wall climbing with a right kink at halfway. Exciting finish via technical mossy slab (you brushed it on the way down, right?)

2. 30m (22) Sustained wierdness up ironstone plates and gritty pockets. Belay off three u-bolts on shale ledge.

Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north on foot ledge for 15 meters to large flake at end of ledge. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended.

1. 42m (23) The highlight. Up wall, step right into corner and fingery gaston crux to steep jugs. Up balancey and airy arette to triple ubolt hanging belay (bring a comfy harness?!). A small etrier or long sling to step into may give leader some kidney relief whilst belaying. Bring 20 quickdraws.

2. 26m (24) Immediately technical and oozey getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the last moves. Double U bolt belay.

3. 26m (24) Up face, carefully through some choss to steep over hanging red wall trending left (crux) and work arete. De-pump on some good holds before final mantle. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Set yourself up to belay back on edge for visual support as it is the hardest steepest and most exposed pitch.

4. 16m (15) Vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Step right near top and belay from tree backed up with single U bolt.

Short corner, only done as a warm up for 3/4 crack. Climb gingerly through shale - consider placing cam with a long stick to protect move, up nice but short corner to tree belay.

Up steep layback corner for 10m, traverse left out to arête and up to stand on large block. Up reachy wall past 2 BR to roof, 1 BR then steep moves through roof and up fine crack. Double rack of cams with extra hand size pieces - 4x 2 camalots used on FA.

Obvious short corner crack to short roof crack and beyond. Maybe 5.12, or 7a, or even 6a/E4 ... try it and see ..

Boulder start leads to short fist crack section in roof. Turn lip and continue up crack to belay half way up wall. Will probably be moved to top.

The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of thin roof crack, Odin's Love Glove, behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave, gear belay. P2 – Two #4 Cams make it more enjoyable,Climb out through roof crux and up easy corner to top. Tree belay. Also good doing route as single pitch.

Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top.

Start 20m right of True Dreams. Up off width crack into corner. Climb out through roof on excellent gear and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top.

Alternate start to Sharp shooter. Short, thin pumpy finger crack.

Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay. Old School 20 or new school 22

The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of SS. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to sprouting tree belay (or natural belay approx 10m back off micro-small cams and a #3 BD Camelot.) Rap off anchor around tree to base.

Shares start with 'Master and the Apprentice'.

1. 26m (19) Up 'MATA' for about 10m then traverse left across hanging slab (with a 30 cm roof above you) to corner. Up corner to belay in cave above tree.

2. 14m (20) Start up chimney with gear in crack on left. Commit to crack line up left wall at scoop above horizontal break. At horizontals move up and slightly right and then left along lip until possible to mantel at arete. A fall from here could see you close to slanting edge of chimney, so if it’s close to your limit consider hanging a very long sling from abseil tree to the lip.

P1 13. Up RH crack, into chimney for gear, then onto slabby nose. Up to loose blocks and crack belay. P2 15. Up nice leaning R-­‐facing corner to terrace and tree. P3 10. Up crack in middle of slabby wall, left a bit at top.

Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay

Crack to the right of Hunger games, it is in the same little alcove. Odens’ version of flake crack. You will need a 5 and six for the top. Lower offs at the top, and 60m rope gets you to the ground on stretch. L/H variant has been climbed and is thrutchier than it looks

Arete left of Joe Blake. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up arete with ok gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Joe Blake. Two ropes needed to rap off or do second pitch.

Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of Arachnarete.

1. Climb short corner to ledge. Follow the fine hand crack, which tightens to fingers through small overlap to ledge. Two bolt belay.

2. Up corner to top. Tree belay

Dirty, and hideous in places.

1. 15m (16) Start as for Joe Blake to belay stance in corner above small tree.

2. 11m (11) Up the corner to tree anchor.

3. 18m (12) Up the corner to loose, sloping, shale ledge, and right to tree.

Stay roped up for traverse off to the right.

Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree.

A fine looking arête when looking across from Joe Blake. Start 20m right of JB. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3

Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay. Not sure if this is the two pitch climb done by A.rivers, J.Wilde

Arete to the right. Start up hand crack to ledge and then onto the arete. Lower off rings at the top and a 60m rope gets you back to the ground.

P1 25m 16 Hands to tree Anchor P2 25m 13

Same start as Munch, then wide crack on the right.

Start 5m right of Munch. Up short rotten crack corner to sloping section. Hand crack in alcove to fist crack. When crack ends go straight up past a bolt to top and tree anchor.

Jambing, easy finish on 2nd ledge.

Short finger crack

1. 20m (17) Crack and up wall to block above tree (RH pikers variant at 15)

2. 10m (11) Ramp and crack

3. (14) Along ledge to L and up steep blocky passage.

Project. Start as per Reactor and head left onto face and arete.

Follow bolts up chimneys and corners.

Start up bolts just right of Reactor in layback overlap. Follow crack on gear, trend left across slab to final bolt and up lo Reactor anchors.

Start just right of Mansion. Offwidthing and some thrutchy climbing. 2 number 6 camalots nice to have, FA done happily with 1, no 5s necessary. Up to anchors. Traverse ledge to meet Reactor anchors.

Left side of cave. Stick-clip first ring, grab big heuco and monkey up face above through rooflet.

Right side of crag. Reachy layback start then up steep wall above with a slight right trend. Crank through small roof to finish. Probably best to stickclip 2nd bolt unless you are strong.

Sport route up the centre of the first buttress. Starts out slabby and crimpy and rises to steep orange headwall finish.