攀登 of One Somebody (Linkup)

About bloody time. 2nd redpoint burn of the day, scrapping the whole way up. Was basically "mid fall" on the entire top crux, but just kept lunging and somehow got there.

Objectively this route is gr28 (hence its actual grade I've put on it on TheCrag) but my subjective experience (encompassing all the ropecraft factors) was gr29. Similar composition to Hairline, but 2.5x longer, but the 2-rope faff and all the other admin factors make it a proper mission to climb.

4 more shots. After throwing it away at the low crux from the damn foot slip another billion times, I spent the rest of the day wrecking myself to come up with new beta for that move... and eventually succeeded! Game on.

4 more redpoint burns. Only 1 link through the low crux, crushing onto the headwall, and just totally bungled a move up there while on my best link yet. Its hard to stay fully focused for 35min of climbing without any "chillout" stances, and I keep making dumb mistakes. The slippery low-crux is a bloody frustrating gatekeeper.

1 more redpoint lap. Trying back-to-back days on this was stupid, I had nothing. It took me a full week to recover from this foolish idea.

4 Redpoint laps. Put all my eggs in the one basket hoping for a send. Bungled the 2nd crux on the second lap (took a weird upside-down swing), and screwed up my footwork on the 3rd. The others all ended at the low-crux. sigh .

3 Redpoint laps. Missing the inner "mongrel" to retick the opening 8m of bouldery climbing, and fell off the last move of it on every lap.

On my final shot, I went from the bolt below the boulder problem (5m up) to the final move at the tippy top of the route before falling off. Shouting, scrapping, whimpering. I caught the sideways dyno with the tips of my fingers on one hand... wild!

Refined some beta on the top crux so it might be more achievable on link now.

Day 2: 4 Laps on the top half on rope solo, slowly adding larger sections of the lower half into each lap. Managed the top half clean twice, once with the final traverse of the first half linked into it. Got the top dialled. The final boulder problem 42m up is rather nails.

I don't normally log attempts on my own routes anymore, but this one is shaping up to be a milestone for me, so I'll log it for posterity

3 Red-point laps. The two-rope system works great (thought it IS rather scary, and lugging the 2nd rope through all of the gr27 first half makes it quite a bit harder), and I actually managed to retick the first pitch (only to fall off on the opening boulder linking into P2).

Achievable, but lots of work to do.