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The Gorge - North Side
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Crystal Crack Block
A block perched beside the waterfall, on the North Wall side. |
Crystal Crack Block |
25
Crystal Crack
Takes the crack facing out into the gorge, with a steep start. |
Pulpit Rock (Comet Ramp)
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Pulpit Rock (Comet Ramp) |
22
★ Needling Doubt
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
19
In The Same Vein
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
16
Dag
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18
Comet Ramp Variant Crack
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
North Wall
A steep 280m wall of hardish free and aid routes. Communication can be difficult on the 'North Wall', due to Crystal Brook. It's worth pre-arranging a backup form of communication. Decent 4G reception for weather updates etc. |
North Wall |
26
★★ Yellow Moon
Brushed streak (not so brushed any more) on left end of upper part of North Wall. Starts at bottom of second abseil on Comet Ramp at a small flake corner. P.1... semi hanging belay on 1 carrot, 1 FH and 1 chain loop P.2. 2 carrot bolts, 5FH's plus natural gear. This pitch was brushed 12/01/2022, but could do with more. |
8 M5
Queen Elizabeth
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
6 M5
Zeus
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
24
★★ Arch Rivals
Quality, clean all-free route up the 'North Wall'. Equipped to rap down/climb out. Finishes in the same spot as Yellow Moon. Start: Rap off gum to chains at top of wall 50m right (looking out)of Defender rap, where Yellow Moon finishes. Yellow moon rap chains are on steep part of the slab a few metres down from the obvious ledge. 45m rap to DBB (2 carrots on small stance on left side of the big arch), then 50m rap to deck. DBB at base of route, 10 metres downhill from where you land on rap.
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25
Straight Edge
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
★★★ Bannister's Rush
Fantastic climbing in an awesome position. Although it was given zero stars in the '06 guidebook, this route is gaining the popularity it deserves. A 55m abseil from the two large snowgums atop Defender of the Faith Variant Finish lands you at a 2BB. Challenging moves from the belay lead to a series of vertical cracks and flakes. Clip a BR and move left into the corner system and follow this to a ledge (joining Defender of the Faith Variant Finish). Belay possible here, or simply finish up the corner system. |
23
★★★ Defender Of The Faith
A great climb to do as an Aid warm up for Ozymandias Direct, A great free climb too I am sure! |
14 M3
★★★ Defender of the Faith (aid version)
P1 (40m - M3): starting on ledge, move up chimney and then easy free moves up ramp. Up thin corner and either: (a) reach around arete to bolt and traverse via flake to crack on left, or (b) continue up corner to carrot bolt near arete and tension traverse to crack system. Up to belay at manky carrot and piton (supplement with good gear at level of piton). P2 (40m - M2): Up crack and through roof. Follow crack line to a one person stance below a rooflet (2 new bolts and one carrot). P3 (40m - M2): up to carrot and through roof. Follow crack until it peters out, switching to crack system on left, then back to the right towards the top of the pitch. Up awkwardly to ledge (a short fixed line from ledge belay may be present to help). P4&5 (14). Easiest way to the top - "an excellent mountaineering challenge" i.e. can be wet and slimy. Alternatively a fixed line can be left from the top abseil station of the DotF descent - padding the edge with a rope protector is recommended. |
20
★ Defender of the Faith Direct Start
This variant of 'Defender of the Faith' offers more sustained climbing than the other free variant. Abseil as for 'Banisters Rush' to a small stance with large hollow flake on left (about 8m higher than the 'Banisters Rush' belay), trad belay. Straight up flakes and cracks to join 'Defender of the Faith'. Finish as for 'Defender of the Faith Variant Finish' (or choose the harder direct finish if you wish). |
20
★★ Defender Of The Faith Variant Finish
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
24
★★ Defender Of The Faith Direct Variant
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
28
★★★ Rough Justice
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
18 M5
Cardinal
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
Emperor
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21 M5
II Duce
Start: Start as for Emperor, down and right of the obvious amazing Emperor chimney above.
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28
★ Mussolini
Start: Start by rapping in 65m to the top of p3 of Il Duce.
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25
★★★ El Supremo
Start: Start atop p2 of Il Duce.
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25
★★★ II Duce - El Supremo - Lebensraum Connection
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21
★★ Fuhrer Eliminate
The Variant Start (described below) is possibly a better and cleaner way to do this. Start: Start as for Emperor.
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15
Fuhrer Eliminate Variant Start
Little is known about this but it looks like a nice clean way to start Führer Eliminate. Start: Start as for Führer. |
25
★★ Fuhrer
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25
★★ Mein Kampf
Start: Start as for Führer.
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25
★ Lebensraum
Start: 'Access' by 2 abseils down the route: 40m to bolted anchor (which is the 3rd belay of Mein Kampf), then another 25m to a trad belay alcove just L of the 2nd belay of 'Lord of the Flies'.
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25
★ Lord Of The Flies
Start: Stat as for Führer.
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21 M1
Oligarch
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21 M5
1066 (And All That)
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23 M4
Tyrant Legitimate
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23 M1
The Fifth Column
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23 M5
Tyrant
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M5
Usurper
Start: Start as for She.
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18 M4
Magic And Loss
What a way to spend Xmas. Start: Start as for 'Usurper'.
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M4
★★★ Strange Ritual
Start: Start at the 4th belay of Magic and Loss (or one pitch higher at the 3rd last belay of Ozymandias).
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21 M6
★★★ She
Start: Start at thin crack 27m R of 'Tyrant', a few metres L of the original's aid bolts.
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M3
She Variant (Cleo)
Start: A Link up from the 3rd belay of She into the roof section of 'Ozymandias'. |
M4
★★ She Variant
Apart from the pendule from Magic & Loss into She, it's hard to see how this differs from p1 of 'Strange Ritual'. Start: Start at the 4th belay of She. |
22 M1
★ She - Ozymandias Eliminate
Start: Start as for She.
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20 M5
Knocking On Heavens Door
Start: Abseil 50m down R from 'Fuhrer' Ledge to a shallow corner with grass tree and ledge at 12m.
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27
★★★ Forgotten Playground
An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.
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28
★★★ Free Reign
An exceptional free route that follows a logical line up several different aid lines. This route crosses some amazing terrain from wicked slabs to gymnastic steep slapping and some typical granite corner climbing. All pitches have a mix of bolts and natural gear with the occasional piton or aid mank here and there. Take a standard rack up to 3 Camalot and some small wires.
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M9 X
★ Clouded Queen
Start: Start 6m R of KoHD.
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14 M4
★★★ Ozymandias Original
Start: Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.
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28
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
If you start at Big Grassy, pitches 4-9 make a great outing at 24 (and after the first 5m it's 22). You can abseil to Big Grassy direct with a single 150m rope (or via multiple abseils with 2 50m ropes if you know what you're doing). Start beneath the obvious clean shallow corner blasting up the highest part wall.
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10 M4
★★★ Ozymandias Direct
Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall. Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.
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28
★★★ Ozymandias Direct (free version)
Wow.
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M9
★★★ Copperhead Road
M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far. Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy. |
M6
Holden Caulfield
Start: Start as for Ozy.
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23
Bandidos
Start: Start 6m below Big Grassy.
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22 M4
Rats In Paradise
Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.
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23
Free Blast
Start: Start at the 7th belay of Ozy. This can be done as a rap-in-climb-out exercise, reached by a 55m abseil from the platform just W of Wilkinson's 'Lookout' (a tree anchor is well back and needs to be extended close to the edge if a 60m rope is to reach). |
M7
Crimes Of Passion
Start: Start at the top of p1 of Ozy.
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22 M6
★★ Lord Gumtree
Start as for Ozy.
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28
Lord Gumtree (free version)
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23
★ Primary
Brilliant hand jamming! Start 60 m below Wilkinsons Lookout on grassy ledge. Curving hand crack .... |
23
★ Primary Variant
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
17
Unadulterated
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
23 M3
She Blast Integral
Start: Start as for She.
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M9
Better than Disneyland
M9 but the ACA scale doesn't go that far. From the R side of Big Grassy head up the flake/seam/crack to join 'Lord Gumtree'. Start: Start at Big Grassy. |
21
Führer Direct
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M8
Führer's Indiscretion
If and when the 2nd pitch gets added this will be a pretty amazing line, for those so inclined. In the meantime, presumably you instead exit L into 'Mussolini' or Il Duce. Start: Start at the top of Führer Eliminate. |
The Mother Buttress
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
The Mother Buttress |
15 M3
Tripping the Light Fantastic
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Young Galaxians Pinnacle
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Young Galaxians Pinnacle |
22
★★ Young Galaxians
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Wilkinson's Lookout
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Wilkinson's Lookout |
21
★★★ Silk And Satin
An excellent route on exquisite rock, following a finger crack in a corner. From the intersection of the Manfield's and Reed's Lookout tracks (at the Young Galaxians boulder) head towards Wilkinson's Lookout. Continue past the two signs "Chalet" and "Wilkinson's Lookout" for 20m, looking for a faint track on the left. Follow this track down, via several cairns, until you arrive at a large cairn atop a flat buttress. Silk and Satin climbs the right side of this buttress (looking out), finishing on the sloping ledge. Rap off the two large trees behind the cairn, or build your own anchor (keeping in mind that if you set an anchor high you'll need to rap far further than the length of the route). |
16
Jusse James
Starts a few metres right of Silk and Satin. Climb the hand-crack, L at the ti-tree and up. |
The False Modesty Pinnacle
Follow the guidebook's description until you turn off the Reed's Lookout track and pass between the two boulders. Spot the large Cairn at the top of the rocky ridge, and continue east-north-east down the ridge (some bush bashing required). On the cliff edge, facing Eurobin Falls you can't miss the large cairn on top of a boulder. The pinnacle should be easily visible. The original rap tree mentioned in the guide is gone, instead rap off alternate natural anchors (sling small tree / rocks) left of the boulder (looking out towards Eurobin Falls) 90m to vegetated ledges on the right (look for another Cairn). 2nd rope can be attached to an obvious tree 35m down. Bush bash right below the cliffline to gain the pinnacle. |
The False Modesty Pinnacle |
22
Seclusion
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
★ Ant Jamb
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
23
★ Brontosaurus
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
23
Flight Of The Pterodactyl
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
24
★★ False Modesty
Technical stemming up obvious corner on the SW arete. Quite good, until it blanks out at the bolt ladder (easily aided). |
25
★★★ Vanity Fair
Amazing, thin face climbing up the middle of the North face of the pinnacle. 7 FH's, 1 BR. Rap down the South face. |
25
Modesty Blaise
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Queen Victoria Buttress
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
Queen Victoria Buttress |
22
Death and Disfiguration
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
17
★ Prince Albert's Route
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
17
Prince Albert's Route Variant
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
22
★ Magnum
Start as for Heaven on a Stick.
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26
★★★ Heaven On A Stick
Fix a rope from the top of the first abseil in order to exit the route. From the chain at the top of the slab immediately behind (west) of the top of Queen Victoria pinnacle, abseil 40m to reach the notch behind the pinnacle. From the outer edge of the ledge on the north side of the pinnacle, abseil from the chain, down the route to a grassy ledge. Up the finger crack and seam, past a peg runner (not in situ) to the base of a corner. Up this and slab to the chain (belay). |
25
★★★ The Devil Made Me Do It
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
24
Send Out For More Pizza
The prominent right-leaning crack-line with an orange right wall. 15m down L of the original (corner) start of Gaia.
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23
★★ Wall To Wall
Start from a small ledge (single bolt plus wire belay) below the small corner just up L from the original (corner) start of Gaia. Approach via a 50m abseil from gums close to the edge at the top of the buttress. Alternatively, abseil as per the access to Gaia.
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24
★★ Gaia
Access via a 75-80m abseil from chains. This rap station is located beside a huge gum tree that leans out precariously (and no doubt is destined to fall into the depths of the gorge under its own weight), on the rim of the gorge around about 50m (?) around northward and down a little from the north edge of the top of the Queen Victoria buttress. This rap station can be used to access Wall to Wall, Send out for More Pizza, Gaia, White Knuckle Days and Statute of Limitations. The abseil can be broken into two, utilising the double bolt belay at the top of the first pitch of Gaia and WKD. There is now a bolted, independent, direct start to the original version of Gaia, as well as an extra bolt in the top of the first pitch, and two bolts in the top pitch. This new reincarnation provides a more even, sustained, but less death-defying route than the original. The first pitch, in particular, is one to savour. Start at the double hangers, mid-way between the original start of Gaia (in the corner) and White Knuckle Days.
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24
★★★ White-knuckle Days
An exceptional first pitch - sustained, varied and continuously engaging. Access via 80m of abseiling from the top of Gaia (there is a new set of rap chains at the top showing the way. The 80m can be broken into two abseils by using the new belay station 40m down on Gaia, though a single 100m static rope makes life easier and provides a retreat option if required). Starts from the double carrot bolt belay between Gaia and Statute of Limitations (see p112 of the 2006 comprehensive Mt Buffalo guidebook).
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24
★★ Statute Of Limitations
Access as for Gaia and White Knuckle Days or by using a sizeable gumtree a little further northward along the gorge rim. Best to leave an abseil rope in place in case retreat needs to be sounded. Start approx 20m right of Gaia (and a few metres around right from the start of White Knuckle days) at a 2BB.
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18
We Are Not Amused
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
21
Elizabethan
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
19 M2
Too Young to be Free
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |
25 M1
★★ Eureka Uprising
The longest hard-ish route on the plateau, with pitch grades of 16, 23, 25 M1, 20, 21, 19, easy, 24, 22, 21, 22, ?, 13. Warning!!! Pitches 2 and 3 have a few dangerous (brittle) screw-in ring bolts which need to be replaced! Access: either scramble down, down, down Queen Vic Gully to the foot of the buttress, or make the many abseils required down the route (it the latter option is chosen, realise that a bit further than half way down there is notch behind the lower of the two pinnacles that are major features of this buttress. A short roped scramble/climb up the back of tis lower pinnacle is required before the abseiling can be continued down the route to the bottom). Route is best described and seen by the route description and photo-topo on pp112 and 113 respectively of the 2006 guidebook |
13 M4
Protector of the Poor
Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes. |