A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Anna Ryan Gaskon flukeydukey Campbell Gome Oska Rockclimbers of Central Australia Slackaction Filippo Rosmann Brendan Heywood Sportsdork
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Table of contents
- 1.
Emily Gap
43 in Crag
- 1.1. M&M Wall 10 in Cliff
- 1.2. Main Wall 20 in Area
- 1.3. Emily Left Side / Emily Gap (In the Gap) 5 in Cliff
- 1.4. East Wall 7 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Emily Gap 43 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
总体而言 传统攀登
Lat / Long: -23.738672, 133.950901
描述
Emily Gap is the first gap East of Alice Springs and is a popular picnic spot for tourists and locals alike. The climbing is pleasant, generally slabby, and offers easy single and multipitch climbs with good protection on most climbs. A sense of adventure is required due to loose rock, and wandering nature of the climbs. A helmet is highly recommended. The waterhole (if full) also offers a great place to cool off on hot summer days.
准入问题
To climb please Email the ranger at pwpermits@nt.gov.au with AT LEAST one day notice for weekdays and within Friday for weekends. Just state your names and preferably the wall you are going to be.
Emily Gap is situated on Aboriginal land, and is reportedly the most sacred areas in the Alice Springs region. According to legend this is the site where the giant Yeperenye Caterpillar emerged and created much of the local landscape. Climbing is recognised as a permitted activity in the Parks Joint Management Plan for Yeperenye Nature Park (which Emily and Jessie Gap are located in) for routes outside of the gap.
No climbing is permitted in the gap itself.
前往
Situated only 15km East of Alice. From Alice Springs, follow the Sth Stuart Hwy through Heavitree Gap. Take the first turn L, then drive past several caravan parks to a roundabout. Follow the Ross Hwy for a further 10km, Emily Gap is signposted.
行为准则
This is a special area. No bolting, and tread lightly.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
5 | Amaronthine | 12 | 52m |
1.1. M&M Wall 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: -23.738179, 133.944773
描述
More difficult climbing than the rest of Emily, this wall offers sparse protection and solid climbing on solid rock, and often hidden incut holds.
前往
Located 500m left of the gap. Walk West along the valley floor, crossing a fence and continue until a small stream is reached. Head up the slope to the right towards a large triangular wall capped by 2m roof's.
下撤信息
You can descend carefully down the ramp / slab to the left of the cliff.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Milk, Milk Lemonade, Round the Corner Chocolates Made | 14 | 40m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ M&M's
首攀: Neil Melan & Michael, 1996 | 16 | 60m, 3 | |||||
3 |
★ Candyfloss
This offers a different first pitch to M&M traversing the right side of the large arch up through the roof, about 1.5m from the apex. Sitting belay option just above the apex. From there the climb follows the M&M line for another 2 pitches 首攀: Garn & Rich 定线/开线: Garn & Rich | 16 | 60m, 3 | |||||
4 | Mee-Gwitch | 19 | 50m | |||||
5 | Pear Drop | 20 | 20m | |||||
6 |
Opening me Lunch Box
Runout start can be avoided by starting up GWTMT and traversing into line (same grade). Originally graded 19, easily worth an extra grade for the top section alone. | 20 | 40m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Gumby Wins the Meat Tray
Excellent and steep, sustained headwall. Starting 5m left of the left hand end of the triangle roof just below a piton at 6m. Up past the piton and trend back right to a block at the overlap. Pass the block on it's left before continuing past a 2nd pin and sustained climbing. Solid grade for 19. 首攀: Neil Melan, 1997 | 19 | 35m | |||||
8 |
Toyboy Shaves His Legs
Dirty, crumbly climb up the right hand end of the wall. Straight up, can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope. Wear a helmet! Good fun on the squeeze and jam on the boulder near the top. 首攀: Neil Melan, 1997 | 16 | 60m | |||||
9 | ★★ Block Head | 19 | 25m | |||||
10 | Lazy Sunday Morning | 22 | 20m |
1.2. Main Wall 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: -23.738858, 133.948143
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Sundance
The exact location of this climb is unknown. The original description detailed the climb as starting from the sundeck in the middle of the cliff. 首攀: John Griffiths, Helen Griffiths & Fergus Hughes, 1972 | 13 | 69m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Cosmic Crack
This and following three climbs are on a large and obvious semi detached arch at the far L end of the cliff, about 200m L of the waterhole. Climb the huge crack up the L side of the arch to its apex, then over roof to nice face above. 首攀: Goshen Watts & Steve Thornton, 1996 | 14 | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★ Flake and Chips
Thin crack 4m R of CC, in the middle of the arch. Through overhang to join CC. Little to no protection at the crux about 7 metres up. Delicate moves will get you to the flake above where a size 4 cam will save the day. Not for the faint of heart as there is potential for a ground fall at the crux. 首攀: Allan Bartlett, Troy Mustey & S.Conway, 1994 | 14 | 23m | |||||
4 |
Evening Star
The R side of the arch, then undercling out and over roof to join CC 首攀: Goshen Watts & Steve Thornton, 1996 | 14 | 25m | |||||
5 |
★ Morning Moon
As for ES for 3m, then step R and up overhang to lovely cracks above. 首攀: Goshen Watts & Steve Thornton, 1996 | 16 | 23m | |||||
6 |
The Last Post
Main wall right of the Arch: Wide chimney 4m R of ES separating the huge detached flake and the main cliff. Not very well protected
首攀: John Griffiths & Helen Griffiths, 1973 | 10 | 36m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Cerebral Vortex
Nice climbing with bomber protection up major corner 7m R of the major chimney of TLP. Start 5m L of large pine conifer at nice curving flakes.
Two variants exist, and both pull out on to the face L of the major corner. Climb CV's crack to the start of the red slab and corner, pull out onto face and up to ledge. 首攀: Neil Mahunt & Allan Bartlett, 1995 | 17 | 45m, 2 | |||||
8 |
Random Acts of Kindness
Start 10m R of CV on a ledge with a small conifer. Climb face and vertical crack to L leading ramps. Up to belay at piton. 首攀: Steve Thornton & Goshen Watts, 1996 | 10 | 45m | |||||
9 |
★ Senseless Acts of Beauty
3m R of RAK is a thin crack. Up this to faces and mini-roofs to ledge, step R, up corner and straight up middle of the lovely face to top (poor pro). 首攀: Goshen Watts & Steve Thornton, 1996 | 14 | 48m | |||||
10 |
★★ Handle With Care
Good value. Major corner-crack and slanting roof 100m L of waterhole. Start at flat dirt spot (just R of a white ghost gum), below crack and large prominent corner.
Walk off L, or climb short wall above (Mark Rewi, 05/04/98). 首攀: Goshen Watts & Steve Thornton, 1996 | 15 | 65m, 3 | |||||
11 |
Falling Apart
Aptly named. Start 2m L of large pine tree 20m R of HWC.
首攀: Alison Garrett, Colin Crowe & Dominic Leadbetter, 1994 | 11 | 60m | |||||
12 |
Tipster
Start at the small brown gumtree and a white gumtree in the middle of the cliff (which one is the question!)
首攀: John Griffiths & Helen Griffiths, 1972 | 9 | 53m, 2 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★ Crown of Thorns
A full excursion to the very top of the cliff. Starts about 85m L of the waterhole, directly below large R facing corner that starts about 30m off the ground.
首攀: John Griffiths & Helen Griffiths, 1992 | 12 | 80m, 3 | |||||
14 |
Threllin
Wide crack/corner in gully just R of CT. When it degenerates to a scramble traverse R to just above a tree to gain chimney which is followed to top. 首攀: John Griffiths (solo), 1973 | 4 | 38m | |||||
15 |
Diakon
Wide crack on the RHS of gully, just R of Threllin. Climb crack until it is possible to gain ledge on R (just before bushy tree). Up slab just R of bush to broken ground. Finish up slab above. 首攀: John Griffiths (solo), 1973 | 11 | 32m | |||||
16 |
Vegetation
A vegetated scramble through history - bring your whipper-snipper? Vegetated crack just R of gully R of Diakon. Up through tree to below second tree which avoided on its L. Return to crack and up to bush which is also avoided on its L. When the line breaks into two, follow the obvious corner to the top. 首攀: John Griffiths (solo), 1973 | 8 | 57m | |||||
17 |
Epiphany
Obvious companion crack-line just L of Wisecrack. Scramble to the start.
首攀: John Griffiths & Helen Griffiths, 1973 | 6 | 57m | |||||
18 |
Wisecrack
Locate large block at base off cliff (about 10m L of two gum trees). Scramble to the top of this.
首攀: John Griffiths, Fergus Hughes & Helen Griffiths, 1973 | 9 | 50m | |||||
19 |
Condign
Locate short slab behind the two gums R of Wisecrack. Climb instead the short vegetated corner on the L side of the slab (just R of the block). At ledge, climb crack above to gain a ramp leading R. From ramp, straight up chimney to enter a corner above from the R. Up to large chockstone, step R and continue to top 首攀: John Griffiths (solo), 1973 | 6 | 33m | |||||
20 |
Sidestep
Starts at the E end of the cliff, by the gap and two gums.
首攀: John Griffiths, Fergus Hughes & Helen Griffiths, 1972 | 11 | 29m |
1.3. Emily Left Side 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
传统攀登 和 Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -23.739121, 133.949727
描述
Check with Parks and Wildlife before climbing. Climb East or West Wall but not in the gap. Climbing is currently banned on Emily Left Side (Krusty’s crack area) as Traditional Owners deem it to be within the Gap
前往
1 minute from carpark, first cliff on left, Just L of the waterhole are two slabs.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Empty Glass
Just L of the waterhole are two slabs, with an overhanging wall separating the two. This climb ascends the L one. At small ledge follow the obvious rising zigzag with some tricky moves to a good finger edge and what probably passes for the crux. Then follow centre of slab to top 首攀: David Kirkby (solo), 1995 | 15 | 12m | |||
2 |
Tin Pan Alley
This is the popular black slab to the R of the TEG. When the waterhole is high, this climb may be inaccessible. Otherwise a small sandbar leads to the base. Straight up middle of slab (tricky start). Poor pro, but can be toproped by climbing up the easy arete around the corner. 首攀: Goshen Watts, 1996 | 17 | 20m | |||
3 |
★★ Crusty's Crack / Krusty's Crack
Up the massive L corner crack, L of TPA, the final bulge being the crux. 首攀: Eryne Hali & Damian Milo, 1996 | 13 | 15m | |||
4 |
★★ Liquid Sky
A Strenuous and sustained crack 3m L of CC. 首攀: Mark Rewi, 1998 | 24 | 13m | |||
5 |
Who the Fuck was Emily
This climb is in the gap - please do not climb it. 首攀: David Kirkby (solo), 1995 | 13 | 20m |
1.4. East Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
所有 传统攀登
Lat / Long: -23.739436, 133.951232
描述
This area contains Vegetable Wall (the 'hardly worth writing up climbs', which is the short wall immediately in front of the car park and just R of the waterhole. And Carrot Wall, which is the prominent black slab, often used for abseiling from school groups and Emergency Services.
前往
Access to the top is via a track past Vegetable Wall - you have to climb up an obvious corner, or via a gully E of the wall
历史
Carrot wall saw some controversy in 1994 when a local placed two fixed hangers as rap anchors. Not a good idea - CCNT was looking for somebody's blood. Be warned.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
Hardly Worth Writing Up
Slab and crack in middle of wall, passing rooflet. 首攀: Kieran Culhane (solo), 1993 | 10 | 10m | |||
2 |
★ Hardly Worth Riding Up
2m R of HWWU. Grassy groove, passing rooflet at three quarter height 首攀: Kieran Culhane (solo), 1993 | 10 | 10m | |||
3 |
Boys in Blue
This and the following five climbs are on Carrot Wall, the prominent wall R of the waterhole. Diagonally L up ramp to small ledge. Straight up corner past small dead bush at half height. Continue up crack to top | 12 | 15m | |||
4 |
Blue Light Disco
Up crack in middle of buttress 8m R of BB, passing dead bush at half height. | 10 | 15m | |||
5 |
Blue Healers
Up corner 4m R of BLD to join L trending crack after 4m. Past small tree to top. | 14 | 15m | |||
6 |
★ Officer FIGJAM
Thin crack 4m R of BH at R end of cliff. Up 4m then step L into prominent corner crack and layback to top. | 15 | 15m | |||
7 |
Fairly Obvious
A nice varied crack in a fairly obvious position (I hope you find that position). 首攀: Rick White, Doug Scott & Sharu Prabhu, 1989 | 18 | 15m |