条目 in Crown Buttress

This is the buttress immediately S of Goog Gap and features Evans Crown itself, the highest point in the area. Climbs are described here from L-R.

Start: Left arete of 'Shagrat', reached by a horizontal crack which leads out of Shagrat about 8m up. As for S then crack to arete and up, getting protection where you can.

Quite a pleasant outing. Up the left gully on the main part of the east face of Crown Buttress. FA solo

Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up past 4BR to chain on Barry Dur.

Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. Climb arete past 3BR to join Barad Dur at lip of roof. Left to chain.

Originally done with a couple of points of aid. Joe Friend freed this in 1975 and added the last pitch.

Start: In the L side of Gorbag gully.

1. Cracks to roof, swing left through roof and up to belay.

2. Cracks, seam and slab to large ledge, or slab to the right (4 bolts) and leftwards traverse to belay.

3. As for pitch 2.

4. Up overhanging crack in the little headwall.

Start: right side of gully, about 10m up and right from 'Shagrat'. Up gully / chimney. FA solo

Not very nice.

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH.

Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH.

Much of the offwidth can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Some good face climbing when you get there.

Start: As for No Love Lost.

Stick clip, up offwidth past another BR, traverse left and up to 3rd BR, then up dyke past 2BR to chain belay.

Start: Clean diagonal offwidth on left side of Walloper gully.

Climbs offwidth all the way, #5-6 cams to start then narrowing. Potential to stick clip first BR of Sea of Heartbreakat 6m and continue up off-width to top of Walloper chimney.

Start: Big ugly chimney with internal moss capped by a chockstone in an obvious square cut gully down and left from Goog Gap. Up in whatever manner you see fit.

Start: Use cairn to climb left side of the rib 5m right of SoH. BB and bush to L.

This climb is wrongly identified in the Crag. Blue Train is actually the re-named Dyke. Correct name to be fixed later.

Up short wall, then follow the blunt arete.

Start: Left of 'Cirdan'.

Start: Below damp green groove starting appears about 6m above the ground right of Walloper gully.

Delicate slab and mantle to groove, then follow this upwards.

Supposed to have good wire and small cam pro but currently returned to nature.

Easy angled right facing ramp inside small gully.

Start: 10m R of Cirdan. Returned to nature.

Steep and technical with 6 SS FH.

Short wall and ribbed arête (dyke) on central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully.

Thin moves to gain the dyke, then easier up to rap station on top.

Renamed "Dyke (15)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information.

Start: Right side of central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully.

Excellent delicate slabbing on clean rock past 5FH to rap station.

Renamed "Psyke (16)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information.

Walking access to anchors on top of central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully and "Hotel du Lac".

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve administered by the NSW Office of Environment and Heritage. As a Nature Reserve (and unlike National Parks) the primary purpose of the administration is preservation of natural and cultural values, NOT recreation. While rock climbing is noted as a recreational use in the 2009 Plan of Management (this can be downloaded from http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/EvansCrownMgmtplan.htm) it is not officially encouraged, and if the OEH believe the impact of climbing is detrimental to the natural or cultural values of the area, it can and will be banned.

The Parks and Wildlife Service requested at one stage that all climbers register their intention with them prior to climbing – this no longer seems to be the case. However, there is an existing ban on new routes, brushing or cleaning existing or new routes, no “gardening” or disturbing vegetation, no marking routes, and no camping or fires in the Reserve. No new bolts may be placed, and technically re-bolting is also forbidden.

So – in addition to the usual “Leave no Trace” guidance, please make every effort to minimise any signs of climbing activity in order to preserve our precarious access to this special place.

Up blunt arete 2m right of Goog Gully. Al said he bolted it but it's never been climbed and he may remove it.

An interesting groove with an infuriating overhang. Andrew Penney returned to eliminate the single point of aid.

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. The left groove of two. Up short slab past BR into crack. Easily up crack, groove to bulge, hard move past BR to gain groove then up easy slab past two carrots to shared 2FH anchor.

Interesting climb up pleasant groove.

Start: Up right groove of two 2m right of 'Hotel du Lac', then pull into groove proper. 4BRs, then small wires to protect upper section. Shared 2FH anchor.

Start: 4m right of 'Jagusch Putsch', left of 1st BR. Up to dyke & ledge, over bulge, and up easy ground to shared 2FH anchor.

Start: 4m left of Celeborn. Up slab past BR to join UtNoL. Clip BR on UtNoL, cross, and follow short, low angled groove/ramp to where it steepens and fades. A few dubious wires are possible at this stage. Clip a high BR and let the fun begin! Blunder up past 2BR keeping left of cleaned area to a small ledge & rap station.

Start: As for Celeborn. Left to dyke, follow water smear over bulge. Left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Then left to finish on BMDiL and DBB.

Start: About 20m down R from Goog Gap. Committing slab and groove to crack at 20m. FA solo

Good clean fun.

Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Up slab and overlap past 4BR to rap station on small ledge.

Up slab and overlap past some rusty carrots. 2nd BR is very high.

Start: 1m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids'.

Start: 5m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids' and 2m left of Optem Bop.

Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station or lower offs at 15m. Crux passing 1st BR

Start: 10m right of Celeborn. Middle of face over bulge (undercling hold) by BR, up slab to join NoR. Rap from chains.

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop - interesting crux start followed by easy ramble.

Up past 3 fixed hangers to rap station or to lower-offs at 15m.

Start: 6m right of OB. Up short slab to crack (cams) and pockets tending left. Slab to belay as for OB.

Start: 6m right of NoR.

1. Arching crack, over bulge at end to ledge and L around bush.

2. From back of ledge, short wall to giant flake crack - up. Belay as for OB. 2 pitches, can be done as 1 long pitch (recommended)

Walk west and down past "Blame it on Sarah", then back up to the roof-capped wall.

Start: West side of the Crown Buttress.

Right to left diagonal across roof-capped wall. Then traverse.

Start: 4m right of of DL.

Steep hand crack angle that eases angle and increases width almost to off-width at roof. Tenuous at first then better. Belay here from chain around block, or traverse right into Lemuria's top chimney.

"Up to obvious big, coloured off width roof right of LGC, then squeeze up chimney."

Are we to believe that Joe Friend lead what looks like an unprotectable 4m horizontal off-width roof crack in 1973, or is there another hidden chimney up there?

Start: Up the inset corner at the back of the west facing gully 20m right of Lemuria, at the smaller end of the crag.

Start: A few metres right from E. 'Layback' to L-hand roof.

The following three routes are directly above the Goog Gully central buttress on a north facing wall with a large block on top of it. Access up Goog Gully then skirt around left until you reach the wall, or from top of central buttress.

2FH to chain.

Start: At tree 2m left of 'Small Pox Wall'

The middle route of the three on the wall. Up wall past 2 BR to horizontal break (cams), step over overlap and up to BB.

3 FH to break, FH and up to DBB.

Start: 1m right of 'Small Pox Wall'

Routes to the summit

The original line to the summit.

Start: On the South of Evans Crown. Chimney between the Crown and boulder, step across gap and pull up onto ledge. Crack to summit.

Start: Opposite side of Crown from Tanner's Leap. Hand-traverse break, then pull up to juggy chimney/offwidth.

Start: Up at Right end of short juggy boulder adjacent to the Crown, S of Tanner's Leap

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve administered by the NSW Office of Environment and Heritage. As a Nature Reserve (and unlike National Parks) the primary purpose of the administration is preservation of natural and cultural values, NOT recreation. While rock climbing is noted as a recreational use in the 2009 Plan of Management (this can be downloaded from http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/EvansCrownMgmtplan.htm) it is not officially encouraged, and if the OEH believe the impact of climbing is detrimental to the natural or cultural values of the area, it can and will be banned.

The Parks and Wildlife Service requested at one stage that all climbers register their intention with them prior to climbing – this no longer seems to be the case. However, there is an existing ban on new routes, brushing or cleaning existing or new routes, no “gardening” or disturbing vegetation, no marking routes, and no camping or fires in the Reserve. No new bolts may be placed, and technically re-bolting is also forbidden.

So – in addition to the usual “Leave no Trace” guidance, please make every effort to minimise any signs of climbing activity in order to preserve our precarious access to this special place.

There are 3 short "SB" (Steve Babka) routes starting half-way up a longer slab facing west on the south side of Crown Buttress.

These routes are mentioned in the CragCare guide: "Harry Luxford’s guide (1998) refers to 3 climbs on a short wall “right and down about 80m from Smallpox Wall to western edge of blocks”. This wall was called ”The Kindergarten” and was intended to serve as an introductory practice area for slab climbing novices. It was definitely in use before the close of the 1990 Rock guide."

The top of these routes is a large platform around -33.54359, 149.92536 on the walk up to the Crown from which one can rap and toprope off block anchors 5m back. Do not trust the rusty carrots.

Start: Marked CP.

Wide flared V chimney-crack with chockstones. Left variant start is angled cheeese-grater offwidth. Huge block belay at top -33.543325, 149.925413.

Start: 1m R of CP, faintly marked with square possibly "S"

1.5m wide chimney with internal chockstones ending in flared overhanging crack.

Start: P1 10m right of S at ground level. P2 from same ledge as SB#2 and SB#3.

1. (15m) Low-angled lichen slab with rusty carrots at 3 and 10m.

2. (7m) Left of SB# ledge. Steeper slab with 2 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on right facing out).

Start: In middle of SB# ledge.

Mildly overhung start then up scoopy slab with 3 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out).

Start: On right of SB# ledge.

Desperate overhanging start then up easier slab past 2 rusty carrots.

Belay off immovable blocks 5m back with directional rusty carrot near edge (on left facing out).