条目 in Central climbing areas

A cluster of climbing cliffs within a few hundred meters of the car park.

About 100m upstream from the Schoolgirl Boulder and just off the walking track is an east facing buttress. This is the Dunderclump Buttress.

Start: Under sickle-shaped under cling in the middle of the wall.

Up under cling, then directly up to hollow flake. Finish straight up.

Start: At base of arête 2m left of G.A.S.

Up arête tending right onto slab and gear placements. Directly up groove to top. R.P.’s and small cams.

The private sector is an east facing wall with a small waterfall at the northern most end. Routes are from left to right.

This quality bouldering wall faces onto the main private sector wall opposite 'Yoda'

Sit start and climb up and right as the ground rises, finishing on the far right on the large rail

Sit start on the good jug in the middle of the wall and then directly up

Shared start with Neomorph then head up almost 1m to the right

The spicy extension finish to 'Facehugger'. Start as for Facehugger and continue on from the obvious layback rail up & R into seam and top out. Chockstone footer block is out.

Directly up through bulge left of bush.

Start: First line on this section. of cliff.

Up wall past 3 bolts, heading right under bush to belay

Route no longer exists. See Trajectory direct.

The original line climbed in ‘82, at grade 18, by Jack Latanzio has long since fallen away leaving a much harder, direct, line.

Start: The overhanging dihedral right of P.A.D.

Up technical corner past 2 bolts to pull onto low angled wall (bolt) and up to belay as for Yoda.

Start: Right of Trajectory, three bolts up overhang on jugs to top. Double-bolt belay back up in corner.

Start 5m right of Trajectory.

Up staircase blocks to top.

Start: 1m right of Elevator, the corner before the main wall.

Straight up the corner, a few layback moves provide the interest.

Start: Arête left of Slackers and Robbers.

Up past FH to good break for gear, then past one more FH to top, share anchors with SR

Start: At the left hand end of the main wall. Two FH plus natural gear.

Straight up thin crack, then past FH to break with good gear, up past another FH and up to Anchors.

Start: In the middle of the main wall right of Slackers And Robbers.

Up thin seam, past FH then up to the easier corner. Good #0.3 in horizontal break to the right and if using double ropes there is also a good 0.2-0.3 in horizontal break on the left. Continue up to anchors on block at top.

Start 2m right of HPS following three FH trending right to anchors over lip.

Start: On the right hand end of the main wall, 4m right of the Hot Pearl Snatch. One FH is the only protection, although first bolt of CKSB could be used with double ropes?

Up wall to FH, then right and up to top, can use anchors on CKSB.

Start: Block wedged down right from Private Sector.

Up wall above water into thin seam to top. Small TCVs and RPs for PR9. Friend belay.

Start: Right next to the waterfall about 20m right of M.R. Can be done most of the time except at high water levels - grade 4 descent by Kayak when the river is in flood.

Up the slick wall past three bolts. Wires for the belay.

On the north end on the other side, and almost under, the waterfall is a great little bouldering area only accessible during extended drought.

At normal level this is completely soaked, it needs to be quite dry and will probably need a good clean.

Start low down on the left and zig zag up

On the downstream side is a slabby wall with a huge gnamma feature like a big cauldron. The top is very close to the School girl boulder

Start in the cauldron, mantle left, then diagonally right across the face to a bulging crux finish

Above the Thick as Thieves wall is a large boulder. This is the Schoolgirl Boulder. There are also a few nice squeezes through and under the boulder. Routes described from left to right.

Originally a project but unknowingly stolen by an unknown, nefarious Brisbanite. Start: The left wall of the dihedral Directly up the wall past three bolts.

The corner crack 2m right of SW. Stem and Jamb up the corner. Belay on top of block in cracks.

Inside the boulder starting behind Toby's Corner. Cave and chimney all the way up and pop out the top. No gear needed.

The arete right of S.W. Delicately up the left side of the arête past two bolts and a #2 Friend. Friend Belay.

Pleasant and technical for the grade. Start: Right of FHA.

Up the wall past two bolts and some pro. to belay in breaks at top.

The wall on the boulder. Up the wall and hand crack to top.

3m right of Good Morning Little School Girl. Supposedly better than it looks. Up staircase to ledge, hand-traverse left to hand-crack to top.

Climb the tall overhanging arete from a sit start.

Walk east, around the contour for 20m there is a small bouldering cave with one problem.

Start on juggy block to the right of the crack, move into aggressive hand / finger jam through roof to a tricky lip encounter and high top out. No earthworks needed, do not be tempted.

From Illusion Buttress walk upstream in the main Gara River gully, possible when the river is low. Otherwise from the upstream end of Hope Buttress, walk/scramble straight across, past a small gully, then on the the main water course. The most obvious features are the Private Sector Wall, and the overhanging black corner, “Thick as Thieves”. As you approach from Illusion Buttress the first route you come across is Tipitina on the opposite side of the river to T.A.T

An overhanging black corner crack. Up the corner to top. Belay chains.

4m downstream from Thick As Thieves, the thin crack near the end of the buttress. Up over bulge to the crack/corner. Up this and step right onto ledge.

A diagonal corner just left and up from Tipitina. Harder than it looks. Up a short steep slab, then thin awkward moves in the corner to top.

As for Tipitina. Up the steep wall trending left along seam then back right and up to chain in Fingertip Control (placed there by misunderstanding - but left there). Four bolts in total.

A corner with a bush. Up the corner, avoid the tree, then up final corner to top

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Start: As for Pink Freud. Looks harder than 16 and probably is!

Up as for Pink Freud, left across wall using crack, step up and climb slabby arête.

Start: 2m left of Fugue State

Up crack.

Start: The best line on the boulder just down (approximately 40 m) from the car park.

Up crack, through overlap to ledge, then up offwidth crack to top.

Start: Somewhere (?) on a boulder 200 m downstream of Pink Freud.

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Start: 4m left of the belay tree for Nirvana On Tap, the sharp crack above a large cave.

Up the fine crack, moving right onto the ledge. Step out right then up and through the roof and step (crux) up onto the top of the block. 2 BR belay.

Start: 2m left of Yuppie. A hard start.

Muscle up start, then cruise to horizontal crack, traverse left to ledge. Tree belay.

Start: 1m left of Reunion. A series of boulder problems and ledges.

Up little wall, step left, up left diagonal then clip BR right past BR to ledge, clip another BR then up (crux) to top.

Start: Just left of Anticipation/Hope. Easy slab then an off-width.

Up slab to ledge. Up off-width to ledge; traverse left and easily to top.

Start: As for Reunion.

At the top of the off-width step right onto the wall and finish up cracks to top.

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

Start: On the ledge between Charity and Hope.

Straight up the wall to top. No protection.

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: The slabby arête at the extreme right hand end of the buttress. #4 Friend and 2 BRs. Belay off 2 bolts.

Scramble up ledges to the base of the slab. Move up the right side of arête, BR, then step to the left side (crux) and up to the top, BR.

This short wall is behind you when facing hope.

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Opposite Hope Buttress is a north facing buttress on the higher tier above 'Hubris'.

Start: The climb faces Hope Buttress. 2 BRs and wires.

Swing up to the ‘bucket’, clip the FH, then move up (crux) to the next FH. Mantle over the bulge to lower offs, optional grassy top out.

Start as for WWOS then diagonally right up the slab

Delicate slab climbing linking into the 3rd bolt of 'Cross wired'

Interesting boulder start into a crack and then over too quickly

Between Y's move and hope is a small boulder under a very overhung steep face.

Up arete

SDS up leaning rail.

In the gully behind Hope Buttress is a large boulder split by an obvious crack. This is Y’s Move.

Start: At a slab at the base of the crack.

Up slab to overlap, (crux) then up crack to top.

A short easy top rope slab.

Around 10m upstream from 'Hopeless', is a promising pit

If this goes it would be cool. Start 2m underground and climb left and up out of the pit

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

There few routes face south on the back wall which you can see if you are approaching from the south, as for the approach to Hope Buttress.

The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay.

A crimpy face with a lot of flexing holds, climb delicately to leave some holds for the next climber

The arete about 10m right of Poetic Justice. Technical crimps up the arete then traverse left to finish.

The main cliff faces north and into the main gorge.

The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement.

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux.

From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out.

The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles.

Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out.

Little slopers, could also be a direct start to 'Picnic at Hanging Rock'

At the end of SA Buttress and just before Inertia is a cave made by a boulder stacked on two other boulders. To get to 'Inertia', you must scramble down into the entrance to the little cave these boulders create.

Sit start under the cave on a large slopey pinch and head directly out the cave on sharp crimps to a slopey mantel top out.

The next step down left from the main face is a steep cave

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off.

Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade.

Two rings to double ring anchor 1m right of Inertia.

No information about this route, likely an unsent project. It is one of the earliest routes with glue in rings somewhere in the late 90's. Feel free to post info if available.

This wall is between the main wall and 'Psychosomatic Wall' and much taller. It is very fragmented with ledges but has potential. Access as for the back wall and rap in to half way.

Start on the big jug on the corner about 5m left of 'Inertia'. Up and then technical traverse left across the face then up into cathedral roof for a good rest. Then a thrutchy exit through the roof, up the easy slab to anchors.

Climb Springer and then change gears and bust left through the horizontal roof crack and mantle.

A bouldery direct start. Up the face on interesting moves (crux) on to the ledge and up as for 'Keystone corruption'

Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor.

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Short man’s climb (The Gnome strikes again!)

Arête left of 'Psychosomatic'. Up crack, onto arête past 2 bolts to top.

The crack next to the Casuarina, the right hand end of the wall. Technical and sustained, longer than it looks. Intermittent thin cracks lead to a wider crack above. Then straight up slab to a good belay ledge and chains.