A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Andrew Chen Campbell Gome benwiessner Alanna Elaine Robert Nakkers Chris Snell Hamish Donohoe Andrew Nguyen
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Lower Taipan Wall 25 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Lower Taipan Wall 25 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
传统攀登, Aid climbing 和 其它类型
Lat / Long: -36.897629, 142.385584
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
描述
A schizophrenic crag, very accessible but mostly unclimbable. Most of the existing climbs are worthwhile.
The first climbs start from a terrace left of the orange overhangs. Find 'The Rubicon' and Tyger,Tyger to give reference points on this terrace.
准入问题
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
前往
Follow the track into the Amphitheatre to 'Trackside' bouldering area. The approach from here depends on whether you're heading to the Lower or Upper Tier.
行为准则
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Upper TierThe Upper Tier is characterised by perfect stone with an extensive array of pockets. Unfortunately, there are usually sections of perfectly blank, smooth rock interspersed between those sections of pockets. Best approached via Trackside: follow the faint path right of the Inflammatory Boulder. | ||||||||
2 |
Bad Habits
Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it. Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'. 首攀: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997 | 20 M1 R | 25m | |||||
3 |
Slap And Tickle
24 (!!) Start: L of 'Natural Wastage' 首攀: Nick White & Nicky Sunderland, 1991 | 24 | 15m | |||||
4 |
Natural Wastage
Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall. Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'. 首攀: Steve Monks & Nick White, 1990 | 25 | 30m | |||||
5 | Baby Snakes Gulch | 18 | 40m | |||||
6 |
The Rubicon
A stream in wet weather. Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace. 首攀: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Thomson, 1972 | 18 | 40m | |||||
7 |
★ Non-Passerine
They shall not perch. Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'. 首攀: Kieran Loughran, 1990 | 22 | 40m | |||||
8 |
★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. 首攀: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 27 | 20m, 5 | |||||
9 |
Time Warp
An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap). Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger. 首攀: Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1997 | 16 | 15m | |||||
10 |
Their Finest Hour
Hardly. Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger. 首攀: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd & Geoff Little, 1990 | 21 | 15m | |||||
Lower TierFollow the tourist path to Trackside, and instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower 'Taipan' are only a few metres to your left. | ||||||||
12 |
Blunt Instruments
The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's). Start: Start just L of the arete. 首攀: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1997 | 14 | 43m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★ Centaur
An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07). Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.
首攀: David Mudie & Andrew Thomson, 1970 | 13 | 43m, 2 | |||||
14 |
Icarus
You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade. Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
首攀: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970 | 11 M4 | 61m, 2 | |||||
15 |
★★★ Zeus (Boulder)
The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt. 首攀: Sam Edwards | V13 | ||||||
16 |
★★ Athena
~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge. 首攀: Blake Wardell, 2017 | V11 | ||||||
17 |
★ Pegasus
Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids. Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
首攀: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970 | 31 M2 | 55m, 2 | |||||
18 |
★★ Gilgamesh
Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter! Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.
首攀: David Mudie & Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974 自由首攀: Ben Cossey, 2008 | 31 | 67m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
Project (Nic Sutter)
About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases. | 15m | ||||||
20 |
★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. 首攀: Malcolm Matheson, 1993 | 27 | 12m | |||||
21 |
★ Apollo
This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Start as for Artemis, but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!). 首攀: Will Monks & Vanessa Wills, 2008 | 22 | 40m, 7 | |||||
22 |
★ Artemis
This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top. 首攀: Will Monks, Jill Gara & Ross Timms, 2008 | 21 | 27m, 4 | |||||
23 |
★ Zuul
Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro. 首攀: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 7 12月 2019 | 20 | 40m | |||||
24 |
★★ Zeus
Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof' at the first easier line after all the steepness.
首攀: Melanie Taws & James McIntosh, 1987 | 17 | 40m, 2 | |||||
25 | Tartarus | 7 | 20m | |||||
26 |
Doriemus
Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help). Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'. 首攀: Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1997 | 15 | 20m | |||||
27 |
Might & Power
Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help). Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'. 首攀: Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1997 | 17 | 20m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7 | Tartarus | 20m | |||
11 M4 | Icarus | 61m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ | Centaur | 43m, 2 | ||
14 | Blunt Instruments | 43m | |||
15 | Doriemus | 20m | |||
16 | Time Warp | 15m | |||
17 | Might & Power | 20m | |||
★★ | Zeus | 40m, 2 | |||
18 | Baby Snakes Gulch | 40m | |||
The Rubicon | 40m | ||||
20 | ★ | Zuul | 40m | ||
20 M1 R | Bad Habits | 25m | |||
21 | ★ | Artemis | 27m, 4 | ||
Their Finest Hour | 15m | ||||
22 | ★ | Apollo | 40m, 7 | ||
★ | Non-Passerine | 40m | |||
24 | Slap And Tickle | 15m | |||
25 | Natural Wastage | 30m | |||
27 | ★★ | Inkido Roof | 12m | ||
★★ | Tyger, Tyger | 20m, 5 | |||
31 | ★★ | Gilgamesh | 67m, 2 | ||
31 M2 | ★ | Pegasus | 55m, 2 | ||
V11 | ★★ | Athena | |||
V13 | ★★★ | Zeus (Boulder) | |||
? | Project (Nic Sutter) | 15m |