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Lower Taipan Wall
A schizophrenic crag, very accessible but mostly unclimbable. Most of the existing climbs are worthwhile. The first climbs start from a terrace left of the orange overhangs. Find 'The Rubicon' and Tyger,Tyger to give reference points on this terrace. |
Upper Tier
The Upper Tier is characterised by perfect stone with an extensive array of pockets. Unfortunately, there are usually sections of perfectly blank, smooth rock interspersed between those sections of pockets. Best approached via Trackside: follow the faint path right of the Inflammatory Boulder. |
20 M1 R
Bad Habits
Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it. Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'. |
24
Slap And Tickle
24 (!!) Start: L of 'Natural Wastage' |
25
Natural Wastage
Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall. Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'. |
18
Baby Snakes Gulch
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd |
18
The Rubicon
A stream in wet weather. Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace. |
22
★ Non-Passerine
They shall not perch. Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'. |
27
★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. |
16
Time Warp
An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap). Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger. |
21
Their Finest Hour
Hardly. Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger. |
Follow the tourist path to Trackside, and instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the track f
Follow the tourist path to Trackside, and instead of heading uphill to 'Taipan', stay on the track for another 150m or so until the compact orange overhangs of Lower 'Taipan' are only a few metres to your left. |
14
Blunt Instruments
The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's). Start: Start just L of the arete. |
13
★ Centaur
An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07). Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.
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11 M4
Icarus
You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade. Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
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V13
★★★ Zeus (Boulder)
The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt. |
V11
★★ Athena
~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge. |
31 M2
★ Pegasus
Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids. Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
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31
★★ Gilgamesh
Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter! Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.
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Project (Nic Sutter)
About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases. |
27
★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. |
22
★ Apollo
This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Start as for Artemis, but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!). |
21
★ Artemis
This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top. |
20
★ Zuul
Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro. |
17
★★ Zeus
Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof' at the first easier line after all the steepness.
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7
Tartarus
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd |
15
Doriemus
Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help). Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'. |
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Might & Power
Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help). Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'. |
Showing all 28 条目.