Showing all 26 线路.
Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | Popularity | 岩场 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
Project (Nic Sutter)
About 10m L of 'Inkido Roof' is a line of FHs and RBs leading into an appealing orange corner/seam above the big roof, with DRB halfway up the corner where the climbing obviously eases. | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
18 | Baby Snakes Gulch
| 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
V13 | ★★★ Zeus (Boulder)
The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt. 首攀: Sam Edwards | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
7 | Tartarus
| 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1970 | |||||
31 M2 | ★ Pegasus
Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids. Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).
首攀: Thomson, Mudie (M4 & 8). Andy Pollitt 30.11.90., 1970 | 55m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
13 | ★ Centaur
An enjoyable lower grade climb up a great line, which should become more popular now that it has a rap chain (since May '07). Start: Back down at ground level, just before the track passes under the overhangs there is a major corner.
首攀: David Mudie & Andrew Thomson, 1970 | 43m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
11 M4 | Icarus
You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade. Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
首攀: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970 | 61m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1972 | |||||
18 | The Rubicon
A stream in wet weather. Start: The major vertical corner from the terrace. 首攀: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Thomson, 1972 | 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1974 | |||||
31 | ★★ Gilgamesh
Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter! Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.
首攀: David Mudie & Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974 自由首攀: Ben Cossey, 2008 | 67m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1987 | |||||
17 | ★★ Zeus
Start 8m R of 'Inkido Roof' at the first easier line after all the steepness.
首攀: Melanie Taws & James McIntosh, 1987 | 40m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1990 | |||||
25 | Natural Wastage
Good, hard climb up a gorgeous wall. Start: Start a few m L of 'The Rubicon'. 首攀: Steve Monks & Nick White, 1990 | 30m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
27 | ★★ Tyger, Tyger
Burning bright. Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off. 首攀: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 20m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | Their Finest Hour
Hardly. Start: The second line R of Tyger, Tyger. 首攀: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, Nyrie Dodd & Geoff Little, 1990 | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
22 | ★ Non-Passerine
They shall not perch. Start: Start 5m R of 'The Rubicon'. 首攀: Kieran Loughran, 1990 | 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1991 | |||||
24 | Slap And Tickle
24 (!!) Start: L of 'Natural Wastage' 首攀: Nick White & Nicky Sunderland, 1991 | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1993 | |||||
27 | ★★ Inkido Roof
This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls. Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves. 首攀: Malcolm Matheson, 1993 | 12m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1997 | |||||
14 | Blunt Instruments
The first 20m or so of this route is excellent. It basically follows the blunt arete 5m L of 'Centaur'. Strenuous climbing but on huge holds. (There is another climb called 'Blunt Instrument' at Black Ian's). Start: Start just L of the arete. 首攀: Campbell Mercer & Rob Pease, 1997 | 43m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
16 | Time Warp
An old style route. (There is another climb called 'Time Warp' near Hall's Gap). Start: Start about 10m R of Tyger, Tyger. 首攀: Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1997 | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
15 | Doriemus
Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help). Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'. 首攀: Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1997 | 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
20 M1 R | Bad Habits
Despite the good climbing, the dangerous batman start off a jammed knot is likely to discourage people. It's not clear whether the first ascent used the batman technique or abseiled in to a hanging belay 5m above the deck! Maybe the tatty slings should go and people should place a hook from a long stick and batman up to it. Start: Start about 20m L of 'Slap and Tickle'. 首攀: Campbell Mercer & Matt Walsh, 1997 | 25m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
17 | Might & Power
Bouldery start with no pro (a high runner in 'Centaur' may help). Start: Start 2m L of 'Centaur'. 首攀: Matt Walsh & Campbell Mercer, 1997 | 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
2008 | |||||
21 | ★ Artemis
This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Up Zeus for 5m then traverse 5m L. Builds up nicely to a fun roof at the top. 首攀: Will Monks, Jill Gara & Ross Timms, 2008 | 27m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
22 | ★ Apollo
This is a sport route after you do the first 5m of Zeus on trad. Start as for Artemis, but from the 1st bolt go 5m further L to narrow ledge. Great sustained moves up orange flakes and L over roof, onto the long pumpy headwall, finishing at a lower-off. NOTE: a 60m rope is probably NOT enough to lower off (a 70m should reach, but check first!). 首攀: Will Monks & Vanessa Wills, 2008 | 40m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
31 | ★★ Gilgamesh
Magnificent. HB almost freed it (30M1 - 1 point) but it took another 15 years for Ben to finish it off, by the skin of his teeth. So far he's suggested "maybe 30, 31" for the grade - we'll go with the latter! Start: 10m R of 'Pegasus'.
首攀: David Mudie & Stephen Due. Malcolm Matheson (One point) 90's, 1974 自由首攀: Ben Cossey, 2008 | 67m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
2017 | |||||
V11 | ★★ Athena
~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge. 首攀: Blake Wardell, 2017 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
2019 | |||||
20 | ★ Zuul
Start as for Zeus, but after 4m take the shallow orange corner 2m L. Straight through overhangs, then move R at final roof to finish up Zeus. Good climbing, with spaced but adequate pro. 首攀: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 7 12月 2019 | 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre |
Showing all 26 线路.