线路 in Grampians

Traverse right across the ledge immediately above the roof. Up to and around right of the small roof on the arete and directly up the wall just right of the arete. Be careful of rope drag.

Start: Start as for "Reclaiming The Night".

Up wall just left of wideish line.

A line of rings. Might be Chris Coppard's project?

Line of fixed hangers that comes out of Unknown 1.

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

Starts as first pitch of China Fingers. Blast directly up orange face and corner. Veer left on flakes to slight brown streak. Final boulder guards the anchor. Massive pitch.

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

Argus May 95

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth".

Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.

1. 20m (16) A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib.

2. 20m (16) Rib, then arete. Walk off left.

Argus May 95

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Up the ramp at the right end of the black buttress to aledge. Up the system of thin cracks in the grey wall, step right to the black diagonal crack then up.

Start: From the right end, walk left through a small col and 20 metres left of this is a black buttress.

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

Climb the overhanging descent gully wall and traverse left at the obvious break. Finish as for Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

Start just left of gum. Up and left to buckets. Step right through overlap and straight up seam.

I haven't found a description of this. No idea about grade or quality. It tackles an impressive wall above P1 of 'Storm'. There is a diagram that includes it in the VCC SE 'Grampians' update vol 2.

Start: As for 'Storm'

1. 39m (-) As for 'Storm'.

2. 30m (-) Going by the diagram it heads out L past a bolt then up past 4 more bolts going through a roof near the top.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

Promises, promises. Starts below the central overhangs and orange rock. Up behind the dead tree (?still exists) then through the centre of the roof. Continue tranding rightwards up the centre of the face above.

Up the discontinuous line

Start: Starts 2m to the left of the right arete on the north face of the buttress immediatly (10m) right of the landmark pinnacle.

Vertical seam into roof.

Starts 5m right of Horizon. Follow the hangers them move diagonally left. No anchor as yet.

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped. Wall right of Free To Good Home, keeping close to right arete.

Take the right-hand crack until it finishes. Straight up.

Pitch 2 - 3 rests

Insignificant.

Start: Just right of descent gully at left end of cliff. Up easily on left, then right to seam. Up.

Start as for Inside The Avenue, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze Up the wall on left of the corner, then groove past the final wall on left.

Straightens out "Varicose Vines"

From the first ledge, take crack up wall.

Start just left of the blank arete. Up through an overhang then up a vague groove to finish up centre of upper wall. There is loose rock at the top.

The Next diagonal crack system heading up the wall joining TFOTL just

before the first break

Start as for Diamonds in the Forest.

The arete, straight up.

Start as for 'Rush'. When you arrive at the bulge, move up right diagonally until you reach above the chimney.

Harder than it looks. Crack 2 metres left of "No Squids On Stirling!".

On the left side of the steep grey wall is a dirty groove with a thin crack just left of its middle third.

Start right of the dirty groove and climb up (harder than it looks) to the base of the thin crack below the small roof. Step up left and then back right under the big roof. Steeply up the right edge of the face.

Start as for Back Alley, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze. Up to left-facing corner then the face above this.

Variant start to 'Rush'.

Climb the flake and wall a few metres right of the chimney to cracks. Up to and over overlap.

Great but too short. Around in the gully the pinnacle wall sports nice orange rock. take the crooked line in the middle, finishing on jugs.

The classic of the crag, taking the diagonal line across the west face on the block to the right of the chasm.

Up the cracks on the left arete then traverse right to the central diagonal line. Up this.

Project

Start 3 metres left of seepage line.

Up wall passing small right-facing corner at about 10 metres and straight up through bulge to top.

There is a pocketed wall about 20 metres to the right of Cancer Ward. To get there, head down around the toe of the huge triangular-shaped block immediately right of Cancer Ward and then sidle back along the next wall for about 25 metres. The wall is about 15 metres tall, heavily pocketed and has a large roof at the right-hand end.

Start at the left end of a ledge about 5 metres to the left of the left end of the roof.

Up on pockets veering slightly left to pick up the small flake at about 2/3 height.

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

Start on the left side of the cave. Climb the broken corner to a ledge, then pull over an overhang to a guano- stained ledge (loose rock). Up the steep crack to a horizontal break on the left wall, and then crank for the top. (Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest, Grampians Selected Climbs 2009).

To help protect rock art in the cave, when starting the route it is requested that you avoid the black overhung offwidth crack, and instead use the easy broken handcrack an arm span to the left (I think we can be pretty sure that this is the way that everyone has climbed this route since the beginning of time, and this start doesn't need to be written up as a different route).

Corner and seam. Finish up wall above.

Start: First proper buttress R of 'Sloop' [perhaps 70m R] as next section of cliff starts. I'm not certain about this route. But there is a fairly closed and dirty looking corner and seam that I assume is the route.

Easy scamble up right arete of Exploration Wall to Anchors

Follow the roadside arete on the left boulder and finish up a hand crack on the right.

About 15 metres to the right, looking uphill, of the main pinnacle is a short, slab/wall. This route is toward the left-hand end of this.

No protection worth mentioning.

Follow the line of ripples up the wall.

The excellent crack [which the abseil route goes pretty much straight over] on the 2nd pitch links together sections of existing climbs to give an exciting route finishing at the abseil bolts.

P1 (18m, 15) As for P1 Fedallah

P2 (32m, 19) Up the corner to the bulge, step out R and up to the ledge above the bulge. Traverse boldly out R to the thin crack, up this exiting L at the top. Step back R and up to join the top corner of Marie.

Right side of Staggersaurus flake and face above past FH.

At the RH end of the cliff is a steep bay of orange rock with 4 lines up it. This takes the RH line. The steep bulges are climbed using some unexpectedly good holds. 1] 12m Unprotected moves up and R ward on slabby rock to foot of crack. 2] 20m [crux] Up steep crack through a series of bulges.

Start 3 metres right of chimney up right leaning easy rock to stance 4 metres above the ground. Use pockets to reach high into small crack then moving slightly right on slopers. Tree Anchor. Easy walk off right.

Another excellent climb on superb rock. Start on arête 3m right of Rhino. Up and slightly right to finish up seam just right of arête.

10m right of The Hanging. Bridge corner, walk left across cave, step out and up the pillar.

Another nice climb. 1.3m R of I.M below the undercut ledge. Place some good micro's above the mantle before doing it. Straight up over the mantle passing good wires, more micro's and a fixed hanger.

Traverses the lip of the camping cave from Left end in 3 pitches.

Can safely be forgotten. Used to share Bus Stop's worthless start before traversing to the third pitch of 'John Barleycorn'. Lots of aid originally used on pitches 3 and 4.

Start: Start as for 'Bus Stop'.

1. 42m (-) AS for 'Bus Stop'.

2. 43m (-) Follow the second pitch of 'Bus Stop' for 25 metres then traverse right to a corner, go up a little and traverse right between overhangs. Up line to belay on right.

3. 23m (18) Step left and over bulge past bolt. Up corner to tree.

4. 25m (-) Down, then traverse right to crack. Up, passing overhang on right.

Line right of middle of first buttress on north bank.

The shallow L-facing corner immediately right of Corum's Corner. Scramble off to the right.

Start 2m R of original start then up.

In middle of main orange wall. Up bulges over apparently detached block and sharp flake-crack to V-mantel, then up.

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

Up flake to corner, hand traverse left, then up prow.

Start: About 100 metres from the right-hand end of the cliff is an attractive grey wall with a wide corner high above a flake.

Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract.

The crack at the right-hand side.

Pleasant bridging up the chimney-cleft just right of "Sour Grapes" then at one-third height take the left-hand branch, finishing up the steeper corner.

Another big serious route. Originally finished up 'Catwalk' but this description incorporates the steep and poorly protected direct finish.

Start: Start as for Mahommed's Staircase.

1. 43m (11) Scramble up to the shallow corner and climb it until it steepns. Step right and continue up to a narrow ledge and traverse left to a large tree.

2. 46m (11) The line to a small stance.

3. 15m (11) Up to the wide ledge, traverse left and go up to the tree.

4. 28m (11) Traverse left to the First Terrace and belay.

5. 22m (14) Climb the diagonal crack to the steep, juggy wall. Climb the wall until it is possible to move right and belay at the start of a crack system on the face.

6. 40m (12) Climb the line to the terrace (this is all on pitch 3 of "Buddha's Balcony").

7. 46m (-) Climb the chimney to a juggy wall and continue to the top.

Portable belays take note.

Start: Start as for "English Heatwave".

1. 20m (-) The blocky chimney of "English Heatwave".

2. 25m (20) Go right and into the alcove. Climb rightward through the bulge and up to belay in a corner on the right below roofs.

3. 10m (20) Go left 3 metres and over the roofs, just left of the widest point.

"A most impressive crack which has been climbed by a very dubious mean. It will undoubtably be clibmed free in the future...". Ancient Gledhillian text. This is the climb that lends its name to this line of cliff. It takes the wide jagged crack which can be so easily seen from Flat Rock.

Start: Starts on the far right edge of the Clicke Cliff.

Corner behind conifer right of BSAF.

Steep and very crimpy

Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.

1. 12m (14) Right-facing corner at left end of 'Wire Guided' slab. First move off the deck is hardest. At top of corner a short chimney leads to a ledge.

2. 38m (18) Stand on rocking boulder and jump for a jug just left of the water channel bisecting White Wall. Pull onto wall and follow the channel all the way - sometimes on the left, sometimes on the right and sometimes in the middle. Some shorter climbers have had to resort to aid to start this pitch.

Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.

An appealing finger crack.

Start: Located on the far left end of the wall (20m left of Wonga Park). It can be difficult to reach when the water is up.

1. 18m (19) Climb the overhanging finger crack and traverse left to a ledge.

2. 10m (14) Easily up corner.

Climb the laid-back arete right of gully to finish through overlap.

Climb the wall 1 metre right of "Dances With hakea" past a small blank crack.

1. 20m (18) Start up 'Kava Boy' but where it ducks out right, head straight up the arete via a tricky move. Follow arete for a few more metres, then climb straight up face until you get to a ledge just right of the arete.

2. 30m (17) From ledge head up face above, trending rightwards, until you hit the diagonal crack heading out of 'Kava Boy' (Propaganda), follow this up to corner. In corner, place high cam then step right and blast up on jugs in an exposed position, then up crack, past little slab, moving right up final slabby headwall.

Major right-facing corner in upper part of cliff from major horizontal ledge. The abseil route on this section of cliff comes down this. Confessions of a Dirty Warrior takes the corner from major horizontal ledge.