Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 岩场 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | 日期 | |||
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23 | |||||||||
23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM | 11m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期二 18th 6月 2019 | ||||
Not that much harder than Third Time Looser with which it shares a start. Reach the flat hold for the left hand, take the pocket as a side hold for the right hand, get your feet over the roof then stand up to reach a good crimp on the edge of the ledge above.
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23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM - with Kai Seth Robertson | 11m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 1st 10月 2019 | ||||
Climbed onsight by 12 year old Kai Seth Robertson
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23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM - with peter, jonno | 11m | South Coast | 星期六 16th 12月 2023 | |||||
V3 | |||||||||
V3 | ★ Adam's Problem - with Alice | 3m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | ||||
22 | |||||||||
22 | ★★ Fishermans Dunny - with Kai | 10m, 3 | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 20th 12月 2016 | ||||
22 | ★ Candyman | 12m | South Coast | 星期二 18th 6月 2019 | |||||
Feels a little contrived as it would be possible to step left into "Lets Go To Kabul" at any point on the upper wall.
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22 | ★ Candyman - with Kai Seth Robertson | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 3rd 10月 2019 | ||||
Climbed onsight by 12 year old Kai.
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21 | |||||||||
21 | ★★ Fill My Pockets | 10m, 3 | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 15th 5月 2010 | ||||
Follow the pockets, good fun. A tight fit to get the plate on the last carrot.
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21 | ★★ Fill My Pockets - with Keyser | 10m, 3 | South Coast | 星期四 16th 2月 2023 | |||||
Can't say it was pretty, but the pockets are fabulous! Seemed easier than the 20 next door. Carrot at the third bolt not in good nick.
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21 ~20 | ★★ Fill My Pockets - with Mark Hoggard | 10m, 3 | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 16th 2月 2023 | ||||
The pockets are glorious. Felt easier than the 21 (White Horses) for sure, with decent rests between moves.
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V2 | |||||||||
V2 | ★ Ice Age Vision - with Alice | 3m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | ||||
20 | |||||||||
20 | ★ Flight 11 | 8m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
20 | ★ Flight 11 | 8m | South Coast | 一般 | 星期五 16th 2月 2018 | ||||
Ok, here's my masterchef review of this poxy crag. The rock is quite good, angle is ok, it's short but long enough to be interesting if a few geological coin-tosses had gone the other way. My problem with the place is that there are no real lines. Holds and gear absolutely everywhere mean that there is never any imperative to go a certain way. Bit of a hard move? Step left half a meter and there's a jug. No gear above? Traverse a couple of metres at the break until you can go up somewhere else. Turns out that contrived routes with no climbing line aren't just reserved for sport climbs bolted by Monty, Simon, and Matt.....a trad cliff can lack real lines too, and it makes for shit climbing.
On the other hand, this would be a very good spot to bring children and bumblies for half days of super-convenient, low-committment toproping, as part of a beach holiday. Just don't let them get too far into climbing before introducing them to proper crags with proper lines. |
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23 | Sea Eagles | 10m | South Coast | 一般 | 星期四 19th 12月 2019 | ||||
15+ years of erosion probably have altered the climb quite a bit. Not sure this is actually the one I topped out. The climb needs some cleaning before any real attempt as it can holds can get covered by sand. Pretty crumbly footholds. Pleasant technical moves otherwise.
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20 | ★ White Horses - with Keyser | 10m, 2 | South Coast | 星期四 16th 2月 2023 | |||||
If you're 6'6" and want to look better at climbing that you are, get a couple of stiff-soled shoes with good edges and jump on this! Balancey feet in the low pockets lead to a long stretch up to the horizontal that saves about 12 moves on what your short mates will have to do. Take plenty of small nuts for rigging the anchor. The carrot bolts look to be in good condition.
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20 | ★ White Horses - with Mark Hoggard | 10m, 2 | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期四 16th 2月 2023 | ||||
The holds are there but a bit sparse and reachy for me. Felt desperate as soon as I left the big pockets at the bottom. Stiff for the grade or maybe harder for short people.
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20 | Left Wall Down Under - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Sia, Will | 10m | South Coast | 星期天 1st 10月 2023 | |||||
Knowing the beta this time around, it's one big reachy move and then the rest more doable.
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19 | |||||||||
21 19 | ★★ Underneath Work | 11m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
21 | ★★ Underneath Work | 11m | South Coast | 星期二 18th 6月 2019 | |||||
The start is easier than the guide description suggests. The move to the flake is a reach and it feels very thin if you take it as a side hold.
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19 | ★★ Storm Front Crack | 17m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期五 17th 9月 2021 | ||||
Great fun but nerve racking as it was very wet and slippery
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19 ~19 | ★★ Underneath Work | 11m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 1st 2月 2009 | ||||
19 | ★★ Sedition - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | South Coast | 星期六 30th 9月 2023 | ||||||
Short but sweet!
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18 | |||||||||
17 | 首登 ★ Newborns on Holidays | 11m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | ||||
with Micky B
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18 | ★★ Meaning of Life | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期二 22nd 4月 2003 | ||||
Good rock, natural pro. med to lge cams plus wires
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18 | ★★ Third Time Looser (Third Time Loser) | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期天 24th 4月 2011 | ||||
18 | ★★ Meaning of Life | 12m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
17 18 | ★ Facing an Unpalatable Truth (Newborns on Holidays) | 11m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
18 | Errol (Not Nostradamus Again) | 10m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
18 | ★★★ Invasion Day - with mikie, Mikie Bob | 19m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 21st 2月 2017 | ||||
nice route if I only knew how to jam Amazing exposure.
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18 | ★★ Meaning of Life - with meg langers | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | ||||
So much fun definitely a must
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18 | Errol (Not Nostradamus Again) - with meg langers | 10m | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | |||||
18 | ★★ Meaning of Life - with meg langers | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | ||||
So much fun definitely a must
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18 | Errol (Not Nostradamus Again) - with meg langers | 10m | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | |||||
18 | ★★ Third Time Looser | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 18th 6月 2019 | ||||
Good moves throughout, particularly the layback up the top arete. Felt a little harder than the given grade.
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18 | ★★ Wedgewood | 16m | South Coast | 星期二 3rd 8月 2021 | |||||
Decent bush-bash along the cliff to get here. Belayed by Sia up top. Lowered down to just above the waves. Amazing setting and can confirm the wood is still in place!
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18 Easy | ★★★ Water Torture - with Alice | South Coast | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | ||||||
A top-rope onsight? go back to the gym.
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18 ~17 | ★★ Nose of El Capitan - with Alice | 6m | South Coast | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | |||||
18 | ★★ Third Time Looser - with peter, jonno | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 16th 12月 2023 | ||||
18 | ★★★ Water Torture | South Coast | 星期六 25th 5月 2024 | ||||||
17 | |||||||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | ||||
with Micky B
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17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | South Coast | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
with Micky B
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17 | 首登 ★★ Smashing! | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
with Micky B
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17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期二 22nd 4月 2003 | ||||
Good rock, natural pro
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17 | ★★ Smashing! | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
1st ascent
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17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | ||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | 一般 | 星期六 21st 1月 2006 | ||||
Hot, humid and hot. Did I mention it was hot? three stars? only for the area maybe. Far from substantial but nice, unique setting.
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17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 21st 1月 2006 | ||||
not in summer
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17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期天 24th 4月 2011 | ||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 24th 4月 2011 | ||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick - with Phill Lengyel | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 4th 8月 2013 | ||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - with Phill Lengyel | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 4th 8月 2013 | ||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - with Kate Ferguson | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 4th 8月 2013 | ||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick - with Kate Ferguson | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 4th 8月 2013 | ||||
17 | Kylies Psyche | 8m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
Thecrag guide is confusing, but it's all I had. Nice arvo, until the stuck cam. Well featured rock.
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17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 13th 4月 2015 | ||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | South Coast | 星期一 13th 4月 2015 | |||||
17 | ★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under - with Liz Milner, andrew roberts | 9m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 19th 9月 2016 | ||||
17 | ★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under - with Kai and Mandy | 9m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期二 20th 12月 2016 | ||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - with david | 12m | South Coast | 星期六 29th 12月 2018 | |||||
Nice.
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17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick - with meg langers | 12m | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | |||||
Fun tricky moves if trying to stay just in the crack and not using obvious ledges to either side
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17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - with meg langers | 12m | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | |||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick - with meg langers | 12m | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | |||||
Fun tricky moves if trying to stay just in the crack and not using obvious ledges to either side
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17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - with meg langers | 12m | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | |||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期二 18th 6月 2019 | ||||
Protection for the middle is on reasonable cams, the a good wire and more good cams to finish
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17 | ★★ Salty The Seal - with Keyser | 21m | South Coast | 星期四 16th 2月 2023 | |||||
Most routes were pretty wet but the arete here catches summer morning sunshine. Great climbing but the starting traverse is very tricky to protect. There's a high option right under the rooflet, but it's too bunched up for tall folks. I preferred the lower traverse but it's pretty reachy if you're short. Couple of well-protected moves up and exiting a finger crack at half height are the technical crux and took a bit of working out. Invasion Day through to Barnacle Breath all have carrots for anchors (you'll need at least 10 m static for top-roping).
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17 | ★★ Salty The Seal - with Mark Hoggard | 21m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期四 16th 2月 2023 | ||||
A gem! Starts on some average holds but as soon as you get to the quartz veins, the fun starts. I traversed the upper veins, under the little roof, using the bolt on the nearby 'Crystalline'. The traverse is cool on radical quartz holds, but the pro is non-trivial. Ended up placing pro at the ledge and went back to unclip the bolt, as the drag was heinous. But got to do the juggy traverse thrice, yay! After that, the line follows the weakness and goes through interesting terrain, with a cruxy move or two. Overall, full value adventure.
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17 | ★★★ Yosemite Corner - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | South Coast | 星期六 30th 9月 2023 | ||||||
Good technical climbing.
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17 | ★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Sia, Tom, Will | 9m | South Coast | 星期天 1st 10月 2023 | |||||
Thoroughly enjoyable as ever
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17 | ★★ Fish Fingers - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | South Coast | 星期天 1st 10月 2023 | ||||||
Non-trivial. Strong-man lead material.
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17 | ★★★ Boys Light Up - with Alice | South Coast | ★★★ 经典 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | |||||
A break-to-break Gritstone classic. Good to have 10 people judging my gear placements from below too.
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17 | ★★ Water Board - with Alice | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | |||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | South Coast | 星期六 25th 5月 2024 | |||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - with Ethan Parkes | 12m | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 25th 5月 2024 | ||||
16 | |||||||||
16 | 首登 ★★ Up, Up & Away | 10m | South Coast | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
with Micky B
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16 | ★★ Up, Up & Away | 10m | South Coast | ★★★ 超级经典 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | ||||
1st ascent
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18 | 首登 ★ Beautiful Bridget | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
with Micky B
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18 | ★ Beautiful Bridget | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
1st ascent
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16 | ★★ Up Up and Away (Up, Up & Away) | 10m | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | |||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | ||||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) | South Coast | 星期一 13th 4月 2015 | ||||||
16 | Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy | South Coast | 一般 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
16 | ★★ Life of Brian - with david | South Coast | 星期六 29th 12月 2018 | ||||||
Good.
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16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) - with meg langers | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | ||||||
First route, meg did so good got most of the routes clean. All the routes seem to be graded pretty soft.
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16 | Jealous Tart - with meg langers | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | ||||||
So fun, alternate finish maybe, just kept going around to the right on the flake
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16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) - with meg langers | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | ||||||
First route, meg did so good got most of the routes clean. All the routes seem to be graded pretty soft.
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16 | Jealous Tart - with meg langers | South Coast | 星期一 4th 2月 2019 | ||||||
So fun, alternate finish maybe, just kept going around to the right on the flake
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16 | Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | South Coast | 星期六 30th 9月 2023 | ||||||
16 | ★ Beautiful Bridget - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | South Coast | 星期六 30th 9月 2023 | ||||||
Difficult transition out of the pocket.
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16 | ★ Beautiful Bridget | South Coast | 星期天 15th 10月 2023 | ||||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack | South Coast | 星期六 25th 5月 2024 | ||||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack - with Ethan Parkes | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期六 25th 5月 2024 | |||||
15 | |||||||||
15 | ★ Right Crack (Lyelle Dares) | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
15 | ★ Right Crack (Lyelle Dares) | South Coast | 星期三 3rd 12月 2014 | ||||||
14 | |||||||||
14 | Yosemite Crack - with Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | South Coast | 星期六 30th 9月 2023 | ||||||
Decent crux. Just about safe with a top-rope rigged for Yosemite Corner, but you wouldn't want to slip off the layback move.
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14 | ★ Coffin Lots - with Alice | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期一 16th 10月 2023 | |||||
14 | ★ Coffin Lots | South Coast | ★★ 很好 | 星期天 15th 10月 2023 | |||||
14 | ★ Coffin Lots | South Coast | ★ 好 | 星期六 16th 12月 2023 | |||||
13 | |||||||||
13 | ★★ EBs Make it EZy (Osama's Been Rooted) | 12m | South Coast | 星期六 1st 4月 2006 | |||||
with Micky B
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