Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Dom 26.º Mayo 2024 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
11 | ★★★ Traverse of the Fun Police | 20m | |||||
Sáb 25.º Mayo 2024 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
11 | ★ Leap of Faith - con Ethan Parkes | ★ Buena | |||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack - con Ethan Parkes | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - con Ethan Parkes | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
13 | ★★ Black Chasm - con Ethan Parkes | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack | ||||||
11 | ★ Leap of Faith | ||||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | |||||
13 | ★★ Black Chasm | 10m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Water Torture | ||||||
Sáb 16.º Dic 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
13 Duro | ★★ Black Chasm | 10m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
14 | ★ Coffin Lots | ★ Buena | |||||
23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM - con peter, jonno | 11m | |||||
18 | ★★ Third Time Looser - con peter, jonno | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lun 16.º Oct 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
V2 | ★ Ice Age Vision - con Alice | 3m | ★ Buena | ||||
V3 | ★ Adam's Problem - con Alice | 3m | ★ Buena | ||||
11 ~10 | ★ 6 Beers Before Midnight - con Alice | ||||||
Downclimb.
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18 ~17 | ★★ Nose of El Capitan - con Alice | 6m | |||||
17 | ★★ Water Board - con Alice | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
18 Fácil | ★★★ Water Torture - con Alice | ||||||
A top-rope onsight? go back to the gym.
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17 | ★★★ Boys Light Up - con Alice | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
A break-to-break Gritstone classic. Good to have 10 people judging my gear placements from below too.
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13 | ★★ Black Chasm - con Alice | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lovely
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14 | ★ Coffin Lots - con Alice | ★ Buena | |||||
Dom 15.º Oct 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
16 | ★ Beautiful Bridget | ||||||
13 | ★★ Black Chasm | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
14 | ★ Coffin Lots | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Dom 1.º Oct 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
20 | Left Wall Down Under - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Sia, Will | 10m | |||||
Knowing the beta this time around, it's one big reachy move and then the rest more doable.
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17 | ★★ Fish Fingers - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | ||||||
Non-trivial. Strong-man lead material.
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13 | Fish-N-Shits - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Sia, Will | 10m | |||||
Piecing it together, this is probably where the route goes at about this grade, although not sure about the alternate start. Apparently originally led by Zac Zacharias and co back in the early 2000s. Definitely harder than a 13 if you're short.
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17 | ★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Sia, Tom, Will | 9m | |||||
Thoroughly enjoyable as ever
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Sáb 30.º Sep 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
19 | ★★ Sedition - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | ||||||
Short but sweet!
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14 | Yosemite Crack - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | ||||||
Decent crux. Just about safe with a top-rope rigged for Yosemite Corner, but you wouldn't want to slip off the layback move.
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17 | ★★★ Yosemite Corner - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | ||||||
Good technical climbing.
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16 | ★ Beautiful Bridget - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | ||||||
Difficult transition out of the pocket.
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16 | Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | ||||||
9 | ★ The Middle Way - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Will | ||||||
9 | Left of Centre - con Jason | ||||||
12 | ★ The Right Path - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | ||||||
11 | ★ Leap of Faith - con Angus Gibson, Sharon Tran, Jason, Will | ||||||
Jue 16.º Feb 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
21 ~20 | ★★ Fill My Pockets - con Mark Hoggard | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
The pockets are glorious. Felt easier than the 21 (White Horses) for sure, with decent rests between moves.
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20 | ★ White Horses - con Mark Hoggard | 10m, 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
The holds are there but a bit sparse and reachy for me. Felt desperate as soon as I left the big pockets at the bottom. Stiff for the grade or maybe harder for short people.
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Jue 16.º Feb 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park City Rocks | |||||||
17 | ★★ Salty The Seal - con Mark Hoggard | 21m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A gem! Starts on some average holds but as soon as you get to the quartz veins, the fun starts. I traversed the upper veins, under the little roof, using the bolt on the nearby 'Crystalline'. The traverse is cool on radical quartz holds, but the pro is non-trivial. Ended up placing pro at the ledge and went back to unclip the bolt, as the drag was heinous. But got to do the juggy traverse thrice, yay! After that, the line follows the weakness and goes through interesting terrain, with a cruxy move or two. Overall, full value adventure.
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Jue 16.º Feb 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Fill My Pockets - con Keyser | 10m, 3 | |||||
Can't say it was pretty, but the pockets are fabulous! Seemed easier than the 20 next door. Carrot at the third bolt not in good nick.
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20 | ★ White Horses - con Keyser | 10m, 2 | |||||
If you're 6'6" and want to look better at climbing that you are, get a couple of stiff-soled shoes with good edges and jump on this! Balancey feet in the low pockets lead to a long stretch up to the horizontal that saves about 12 moves on what your short mates will have to do. Take plenty of small nuts for rigging the anchor. The carrot bolts look to be in good condition.
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Jue 16.º Feb 2023 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park City Rocks | |||||||
17 | ★★ Salty The Seal - con Keyser | 21m | |||||
Most routes were pretty wet but the arete here catches summer morning sunshine. Great climbing but the starting traverse is very tricky to protect. There's a high option right under the rooflet, but it's too bunched up for tall folks. I preferred the lower traverse but it's pretty reachy if you're short. Couple of well-protected moves up and exiting a finger crack at half height are the technical crux and took a bit of working out. Invasion Day through to Barnacle Breath all have carrots for anchors (you'll need at least 10 m static for top-roping).
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Sáb 22.º Oct 2022 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
11 | ★★ Beez Neez - con Jords, Dylan Glavas, Harrie Van de Linde | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
First time ever climbing, after months of Harrie asking me to go climbing I had finally said yes. Best part it started pouring raining, the boys were not too content but I thought it was pretty cool. Unfortunately, could only do this climb so we could go back to our car but the whole experience made me want to do it again... now I am hooked.
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11 | ★★ Beez Neez - con Dylan Glavas, Harrie Van de Linde | 10m | Medio | ||||
Learn from our mistakes, climb on a sunny day.
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11 | ★★ Beez Neez - con Harrie Van de Linde, jordan, mariana | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
Rainy adventures! We thought we'd get more than one 11 in! Passed down for ages
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Sáb 30.º Oct 2021 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
11 | ★★ Beez Neez - con Talia | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
8 | ★★ Oi kids, come down from there! - con Talia | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
8 | ★★ Oi kids, come down from there! - con Kass | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
11 | ★★ Beez Neez - con Kass | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Vie 17.º Sep 2021 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park City Rocks | |||||||
19 | ★★ Storm Front Crack | 17m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Great fun but nerve racking as it was very wet and slippery
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Mar 3.º Ag 2021 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park City Rocks | |||||||
18 | ★★ Wedgewood | 16m | |||||
Decent bush-bash along the cliff to get here. Belayed by Sia up top. Lowered down to just above the waves. Amazing setting and can confirm the wood is still in place!
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Jue 18.º Mar 2021 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
14 13 | KitKat (Lets Go To Kabul) | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
Lun 30.º Dic 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
11 | ★★ Beez Neez | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Jue 19.º Dic 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
23 | Sea Eagles | 10m | Medio | ||||
15+ years of erosion probably have altered the climb quite a bit. Not sure this is actually the one I topped out. The climb needs some cleaning before any real attempt as it can holds can get covered by sand. Pretty crumbly footholds. Pleasant technical moves otherwise.
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Jue 3.º Oct 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
22 | ★ Candyman - con Kai Seth Robertson | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Climbed onsight by 12 year old Kai.
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Mar 1.º Oct 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM - con Kai Seth Robertson | 11m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Climbed onsight by 12 year old Kai Seth Robertson
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15 13 | ★★ Black Chasm (Aero Guard Chimney) - con Kai Seth Robertson | 10m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lovely
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Mar 18.º Jun 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
Protection for the middle is on reasonable cams, the a good wire and more good cams to finish
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21 | ★★ Underneath Work | 11m | |||||
The start is easier than the guide description suggests. The move to the flake is a reach and it feels very thin if you take it as a side hold.
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22 | ★ Candyman | 12m | |||||
Feels a little contrived as it would be possible to step left into "Lets Go To Kabul" at any point on the upper wall.
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18 | ★★ Third Time Looser | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Good moves throughout, particularly the layback up the top arete. Felt a little harder than the given grade.
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23 | ★★ Shits 6:30AM | 11m | ★ Buena | ||||
Not that much harder than Third Time Looser with which it shares a start. Reach the flat hold for the left hand, take the pocket as a side hold for the right hand, get your feet over the roof then stand up to reach a good crimp on the edge of the ledge above.
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11 | ★ 6 Beers Before Midnight | Medio | |||||
Up and down solo. Pleasant climb.
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Lun 4.º Feb 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick - con meg langers | 12m | |||||
Fun tricky moves if trying to stay just in the crack and not using obvious ledges to either side
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15 13 | ★★ Black Chasm (Aero Guard Chimney) - con meg langers | 10m | |||||
18 | Errol (Not Nostradamus Again) - con meg langers | 10m | |||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - con meg langers | 12m | |||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) - con meg langers | ||||||
First route, meg did so good got most of the routes clean. All the routes seem to be graded pretty soft.
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14 11 | ★ Leap of Faith (Cum on the Rocks) - con meg langers | ||||||
16 | Jealous Tart - con meg langers | ||||||
So fun, alternate finish maybe, just kept going around to the right on the flake
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18 | ★★ Meaning of Life - con meg langers | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
So much fun definitely a must
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17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - con meg langers | 12m | |||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) - con meg langers | ||||||
First route, meg did so good got most of the routes clean. All the routes seem to be graded pretty soft.
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14 11 | ★ Leap of Faith (Cum on the Rocks) - con meg langers | ||||||
16 | Jealous Tart - con meg langers | ||||||
So fun, alternate finish maybe, just kept going around to the right on the flake
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18 | ★★ Meaning of Life - con meg langers | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
So much fun definitely a must
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17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick - con meg langers | 12m | |||||
Fun tricky moves if trying to stay just in the crack and not using obvious ledges to either side
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15 13 | ★★ Black Chasm (Aero Guard Chimney) - con meg langers | 10m | |||||
18 | Errol (Not Nostradamus Again) - con meg langers | 10m | |||||
Jue 24.º En 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
15 | ★★ Aero Guard Chimney | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
15 13 | ★★ Black Chasm (Aero Guard Chimney) | 10m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mié 2.º En 2019 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
15 | ★★ Aero Guard Chimney | 10m | ★ Buena | ||||
Sáb 29.º Dic 2018 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
16 | ★★ Life of Brian - con david | ||||||
Good.
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17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood - con david | 12m | |||||
Nice.
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Vie 16.º Feb 2018 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
20 | ★ Flight 11 | 8m | Medio | ||||
Ok, here's my masterchef review of this poxy crag. The rock is quite good, angle is ok, it's short but long enough to be interesting if a few geological coin-tosses had gone the other way. My problem with the place is that there are no real lines. Holds and gear absolutely everywhere mean that there is never any imperative to go a certain way. Bit of a hard move? Step left half a meter and there's a jug. No gear above? Traverse a couple of metres at the break until you can go up somewhere else. Turns out that contrived routes with no climbing line aren't just reserved for sport climbs bolted by Monty, Simon, and Matt.....a trad cliff can lack real lines too, and it makes for shit climbing.
On the other hand, this would be a very good spot to bring children and bumblies for half days of super-convenient, low-committment toproping, as part of a beach holiday. Just don't let them get too far into climbing before introducing them to proper crags with proper lines. |
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Mar 21.º Feb 2017 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park City Rocks | |||||||
18 | ★★★ Invasion Day - con mikie, Mikie Bob | 19m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
nice route if I only knew how to jam Amazing exposure.
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Mar 20.º Dic 2016 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
22 | ★★ Fishermans Dunny - con Kai | 10m, 3 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
17 | ★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under - con Kai and Mandy | 9m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Lun 19.º Sep 2016 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Pulpit Rock North Side | |||||||
17 | ★★ Cenotaph Corner Down Under - con Liz Milner, andrew roberts | 9m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
10 12 | The Pull Pit - con Andrew Roberts, Liz Milner | 8m | Medio | ||||
Sandbagged
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Lun 13.º Abr 2015 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
17 | ★★ Yorkshire Girls Draw Blood | 12m | |||||
16 | ★★ Left Crack (Life of Brian) | ||||||
17 | ★ A Quick Prick From Rick | 12m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Mar 3.º Mar 2015 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
11 | ★ 6 Beers Before Midnight | ★ Buena | |||||
Fun way to get back into climbing
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11 | ★ 6 Beers Before Midnight | ★ Buena | |||||
Mié 3.º Dic 2014 - South Coast | |||||||
Beowa National Park Bittangabee (North side of bay) | |||||||
15 | ★ Right Crack (Lyelle Dares) | ||||||
14 11 | ★ Leap of Faith (Cum on the Rocks) |