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Sports Plus / Vodka Buttress

  • 难度体系: AU
  • 照片: 1
  • 攀登: 39

准入: Access

Currently the crag is not accessible.

The Cattle station owner does not want climbing on the land.

The Gas station owner does not want people walking through the caravan park.

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Created 3年前 - Edited 2年前
10

季节分布

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描述

The prominent buttress on the LHS of the Sanctuary. Climbs are described right to left starting by the Sanctuary. Did I say no toprope climbs… well maybe a couple.

准入问题

Descent Routes from this area:

All roads lead to the back of the Sanctuary. For routes on the left hand side (Mountain Moon- Close Shave) there is a downclimb just right of MM. Care needs to be taken when crossing the thin blade of rock from the direction of V&O. Climbs on thr right hand side (Safe Haven-Gobby Jugs) use cave descent on right hand side of sanctuary near the large tree. You can also walk around the back and round past the climbs in the Nursery.

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线路

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Grade 线路

Really Fun and a big psych out for the grade. This climb has some loose blocks, but a very good climb nonetheless.

Up the exposed face and overhang that faces the valley on the front of the buttress. Good number 7 nut placement above and slightly right of the first roof section.

首攀: Steve Beyer & Narelle Netherway

Stiff at 16, challenging at 17. Great pro.

The obvious crack line through the roof and up the face on the RHS of the face of the buttress (just left around the corner from VO) just left of the arête.

首攀: David Shepherd & Steve Beyer

Possibly the crag classic, very cute technical crux.

Starts under the small roof around LHS of the outcrop, just right of the corner. Up to the roof (solo or small cams). Clip the FH and straight up past 3 more FH’s and small wire/SLCD placements. 4BR,1BB.

首攀: Dave Witter & John Fattore

Nasty and dangerous downclimb off back of pillar as "walk off"

The buttress wall tapering to a pillar just left of and at right angles to Sports Plus. Up the buttress to ledge, launch straight up following good holds and pro (large cams).

首攀: John, Julian Fattore & cast of thousands

Belay from ledge at base of hand crack inside of pillar. Climb the crack without stemming or using the left hand wall, through the roof to finish. Taping up essential. Given stars as it is the only pure jamming route in the region.

首攀: Chris Jokinen & Zac Watson, 2 6月 2018

自由首攀: Chris Jokinen & Zac Watson, 8 6月 2018

I liked it.... others don't, could be hard for shorter folk

Climb chimney with prominent overhung crack on right hand side behind Gnomes Roam. Exit from chimney through bulge.

首攀: Steve Beyer & Chris Hart

Nice climb, walk off as for Where Gnomes Roam- Nasty

On the left side of GR. Start on ledge about 3 metres up from the bottom, and up the lovely juggy arete to the top.

首攀: Neale "Kiwi" Taylor

Thin and improbable looking face with very scarce protection 10m upslope from KBL. Bouldery start leading to crimpy face moves to ledge. Easier but poorly protected finish. Do not attempt without a black alien or SLCD of similar diminutive stature.

Crack to the left of BAOS. Straight up obvious line

首攀: Dave Witter et al

The next corner left of WTB. Carefully up the groove past some Friend pockets to the ledge. Then follow the crack above and right on better rock. Watch out for paper wasp nests and bats.

首攀: Mike Ashton & Paul Francis, 1997

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星期四 8 6月
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