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固定装置: Another Faustian Dilemma

Carrot bolts have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

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Created 于16天前

固定装置: The Rasp/Exterminator

Old carrots have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

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Created 于16天前

准入: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

BCC will begin more cliff stabilisation work at KP next month: June 2024.

This will mean rolling (staggered) closures of certain routes and areas, as the work progresses.

Unfortunately, a couple of high profile routes need some "tlc" and will be closed for a bit, whilst they do shotcreting work as well as pinning some rock on or near them:

SCB (18)

Anonymous (16)

Humungousaur (16)

Spidermonkey (6)

TASH (10)

The slab on the right, where Humungousaur & Spidermonkey are located, is not the target, the alcove to the left is & has been on their "to-do" list for a while now. I did a walk-through last year (2023), with BCC & their subcontractor and they need to stabilise the lose rock in that alcove, which will mean closing access to the slab right of it, and probably/maybe, the 18 to the left: Dodgy Dub, possibly Hanging Garden as well? If there were large rockfall during the stabilisation works, they would need to take precautions that any member of the public is well clear. Cést la vie.

The biggest impact will probably be the temporary closure of the stone stairs whilst they carry out stabilisation work in the alcove beneath the stone stairs. Rock pinning + shotcreting. You may have noticed the huge bags of rocks they placed there, last year (2023), as a temporary shoring-up measure.

Unfortunately, this will restrict access to the cliffs, to either via the road below or the metal stairs on the right, (below the Nursery Cliffs).

More work will be done around the arête Earth To Stella + A Quickie Before Dinner, but these routes have long been closed now, with heavy wire mesh pinned around that arête to stabilise it.

There will also be more stabilisation work done at KP North.

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Created 19小时前 - Edited 18小时前

描述

Start 2m L of 'BARFJ'. Marked "CC".

Classic climb but potential for big falls so make sure you're solid at the grade if leading. Hard start to small ledge and high FH. Follow obvious line past 2nd & 3rd FHs. Above 3rd FH place cam in crack or run it out to 4th FH. Finish at DBB.

线路历史

1970首攀: Rob Staszewski

Aided using RURPs

11月 1984自由首攀: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins

警告

5 May 2024 警示 固定装置: Another Faustian Dilemma
5 May 2024 警示 固定装置: The Rasp/Exterminator
20 May 2024 警示 准入: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

位置

纬度/经度: -27.48020, 153.03338

部分内容经许可发布自: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

难度引用

23 难度等级
22 [21 - 22] -- AI难度(grAId)系统
23 OZ Rock
23 Kangaroo Point
23 private
23 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide

行为准则

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
取自Kangaroo Point

季节分布

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

路线质量

超级经典
经典
很好
一般
不值一提
糟糕

基于 195个评价的综合得分为 74。

难度 - 23

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

基于 8个评价。

建议难度

23

基于 8个评价。

打卡类型

视攀 7
闪攀 8
红点 192
粉点 74
打卡 95
顶绳攀登 30
尝试失败 329

评论关键字

exposed tricky runout horrendous committing scary fall easy traverse bad hands smooth fingers layback dodgy vertical awkward technical epic rest slopey crack weird pinch face feet pockets cruisy classy nice super perfect fun awesome great fantastic cool good classic amazing sweet stoked lovely pleasant beautiful incredible superb struggle difficult crux pumped challenging crank tough sustained hard tired solid

Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

日期: 2021

国际书号: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

作者: Simon Carter

日期: 2018

国际书号: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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