Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期天 16th 6月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Billiard Table | |||||||
19 R |
★ Popular Miss Conception
![]() | 16m | ★ 好 | ||||
Hangdog
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星期一 10th 6月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Buttress | |||||||
18 Easy |
★ Close to the Edge
![]() | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
It's actually got a little bit of everything, juggy overhung start, little bit of delicate face up to the roof, pull through the roof with great exposure, then some juggy face to the top. Watch out for super gritty rock at the top ruining your ropes...
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16 |
★ Street Legal
![]() | 13m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Quite nice moderate delicate face climb, nearly slabby
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22 |
★★ Gorilla My Dreams Super Direct
![]() | 15m, 3 | |||||
Tough. Got a sequence now though. It'll go
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21 |
★★ Gorilla My Dreams DS
![]() | 15m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Messed up my top sequence but sent it all the same
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星期天 2nd 6月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Billiard Table | |||||||
21 |
★★ Fascination
![]() | 16m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Quite comfortably
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19 |
★ Entelechy
![]() | 10m | |||||
Still working out the beta.
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星期天 26th 5月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
21 |
★ October
![]() | 12m, 3 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Only on TR but quite easily.
Beta after the first bolt was R, L, R.
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星期二 14th 5月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
23 |
★ Illequipt Left Side
![]() | 14m | ★ 好 | ||||
Did I really send it? Was I off route? I dunno. I later worked out a variant sequence for the crux that avoids the juggy horizontal (for another day). Probably grade 23 either way.
It's worth 2 stars for the delicate balancy face climbing, but 0 stars for the lingering pain in my left fingertips. So sharp it's gross |
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17 Hard |
★ Alms
![]() | 15m | 一般 | ||||
Borderline sandbagger at 17. Very tough previously, now that I'm stronger the really delicate section at the bottom is less of an issue, can just face climb it
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19 |
Pulpit
![]() | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Quite a good climb! Worth doing occasionally
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星期一 13th 5月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
26 |
★★★ Geronimo's Cadillac
![]() | 17m, 4 | |||||
Nice evening laps
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星期天 5th 5月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Billiard Table | |||||||
19 |
★ Entelechy
![]() | 10m | |||||
Gave it another go on TR. Clean until the move to the crimp at the top. Surprisingly pumpy and beta dependant.
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星期六 4th 5月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
23 Easy |
★★ Witch Hunt
![]() | 15m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Really enjoyed this. Maybe this style really suits me, but it did feel a bit easy. The lose block at the top is super dangerous, I'll put a flag up here. Would be pretty important for someone who knows what they are doing to remove it. I didn't want to do it as I've never removed something that big from a climb and didn't want to do something stupid! DO NOT touch that block (chalk crosses all over it) — even if it misses your belayer (who would not survive being hit by that) it might still cut the rope. Disaster written all over it.
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16 |
★ Surfactant
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Not boring and not a bad warm up for your head, but not a lot for your arms!
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星期二 23rd 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Outcrops | |||||||
22 |
★ Om Mane Padre Om
![]() | 12m | ★ 好 | ||||
Did it twice, pretty comfortably, though kinda felt like I cheated... First time because I was at full stretch, impossible move for anyone less than 6 foot tall. Second time I tried to find alternative feet and feel like I prob foot dabbed. Will have to try it again sometime...
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13 ~14 |
★ Three Step
![]() | 12m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
I top roped this today, but recording it as Trad because I didn't note down when I lead it last time.
Pleasant interesting tricky climb. 13 seems really sand bagged. I guessed 15-16, even after having done it 4 times in a few months. Not that I climb many routes in that range, but still. |
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星期天 21st 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
16 |
★ Twist and Shout
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Awesome movement, makes a strong case for my favourite 16, probably has a much harder crux if short
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11 |
★ 1987
![]() | 12m, 3 | ★ 好 | ||||
Bit spaced for an 11
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16 |
★ Begging for Forgiveness
![]() | 15m, 8 | ★ 好 | ||||
Climbs well, rock is a bit rotten down low
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16 |
★ Septic Tank
![]() | 11m, 4 | 糟糕 | ||||
Easily in the top 10 worst routes I've ever done and might even podium. Don't bother. In no world does this legitimately get a star
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星期六 20th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | |||||
skipped a big crimpy move down low, and dogged up. cool enough
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22 Easy |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Lap 2
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21 |
★ October
![]() | 12m, 3 | ★ 好 | ||||
Bit of a weird one. Glad I got it done today.
Holds all pretty reasonable when you can find them,
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22 Easy |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Smooth!
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18 |
★★ Terrathea
![]() | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Another fun climb.
Flashed with gear in.
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20 |
★★ Gladiator
![]() | 16m, 3 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
What a fun route with a mix of styles. So glad I got on this today. Thanks Gabe.
Flashed it with gear in.
Did place two additional cams.
Already want to climb this again!
Flash with gear in.
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星期天 14th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 |
★★ Japetus Direct Finish
![]() | ★★★ 经典 | |||||
Delightful
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星期天 14th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
17 R |
★★ Resurrection
![]() | 14m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
TR. L foot in dish R foot on poorish footer to R.
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星期天 14th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Dialled in the crux on top rope, then went for a lead attempt. Got the crux down now, just need to be efficient on the roof moves
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星期六 13th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
30 |
★★ Fred Radford
![]() | ||||||
Some promising links today! Great bit of climbing
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星期六 13th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Barad Dur
![]() | 20m, 1 | |||||
TRS
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15 |
★ Lords Prayer
![]() | 17m | |||||
TRS
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16 |
★ Golgotha
![]() | 15m | |||||
TRS - I need to learn how to jam
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16 |
★ Asgard
![]() | 15m | |||||
TRS
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15 |
★★ Shedidit
![]() | 13m | |||||
TRS
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19 |
★ A Quiet Chat
![]() | 13m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
TR. Pretty much cruised it today. I love the way I do the bottom it feels so cool with the high R foot and big reach o with the R hand. Also love the crux with the dependency and the poor L foot and small flat top hind for the R hand to grab the high, left hand sloppier gaston with crimp on it 😀
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星期天 7th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Giving this a go after a long 'break'. Lock off, toe down hard
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星期天 7th 4月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
8 |
★ Leprosy
![]() | 15m | 一般 | ||||
Fun enough but poor rock. All you need are tricams
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12 |
★ Balthazar
![]() | 13m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Good, was my first outdoor climb
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20 R |
★★ Digital Input
![]() | 19m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Cool, looks relatively well protected
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星期天 31st 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
18 |
★★ Terrathea
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Steep! So steep! Luckily the possum in the crack seemed to sleep peacefully through my struggles! zzz
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星期五 29th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
23 |
★ Illequipt Left Side
![]() | 14m | ★ 好 | ||||
Nearly! Got the moves, just need to stick them now
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19 |
★ Shewoodenduit
![]() | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Sucks that the crux is straight off the deck, but still a great route
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23 Easy |
★★ Pizazz
![]() | 21m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
I did dog it on my onsite attempt, but it still felt quite easy for a 23. Confident I'll send it now I know where the holds are. Maybe lead? Maybe : )
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星期二 26th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Billiard Table | |||||||
21 ~20 |
★★ Fascination
![]() | 16m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Top roped it to warm up, then lead it, nice and clean and pretty comfortably. Nice one! : ). One borrowed wire.
I find it hard to believe this is 21 and logical variation is 20. I guess it all depends how you approach the crux up the top, and what you think is in which climb. But there is certainly a sequence that goes up and left from the top of the main crack, that's only about 20 (and half a grade easier than the similar move half a metre further over to the left on Logical). That said, it's an excellent climb, and a great lead especially. Real gorilla my dreams vibes, (but better rests) |
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20 |
★ Logical Variation
![]() | 16m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Slightly contrived, but I like it. It's a variation after all! Feels a grade harder than fascination all the way up, as long as you don't take the exit to the left at the mantle. No rests, all big slopey holds.
Will lead it next time!
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16 |
★ Romper Room
![]() | 18m | ★ 好 | ||||
Apparently we did a harder (but less chossy) alternative just to the right of the crux. It was definitely harder than 16, maybe 18. Nice route
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19 |
Gambling
![]() | 18m | ★ 好 | ||||
Still awkward, but solid enough. Nice corner bridging
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星期天 24th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
16 |
★ Beggar's Banquet
![]() | 10m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Looks terrible but actually climbs well. Nice jug hauling
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星期六 23rd 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
16 Hard |
★ Surfactant
![]() | 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Didn't do it today but logging it from last time.
Quite a nice tricky face climb. Feels wrong to use the blocks to the right of the flat black streak. Probably add a grade (& a star) for avoiding them
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星期六 23rd 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Extra G
![]() | 18m, 1 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Really struggled on this today on the first lap, mucked up my foot beta from the horizontals to the jug and then kept overthinking it. Last lap was nice.
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星期六 23rd 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
16 |
★ Beggar's Banquet
![]() | 10m | ★ 好 | ||||
Glad to tick this after dogging it last time. Worth the repeat. A touch longer and harder and I'd probably give it 2 stars
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15 |
★ The Full Monty
![]() | 10m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
It's short, chossy and held together with mud, but tbh that's half the fun. Some interesting moves, trickier than it looks (my mate fell, lol, after grabbing a wobbly block).
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16 ~15 |
★ Septic Tank
![]() | 11m, 4 | 一般 | ||||
Septic tank because it's a tub of s$&t?
Once is enough. One interesting move near the top, it would be a decent easy grade lead (Heaps of bolts), and the rock is more solid than it looks. But otherwise little climbing merit (unlike every other bolted route here). I'd thought it was about a 14. |
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星期六 23rd 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
22 Hard |
★ Sardine
![]() | 21m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Nice challenging pumpy lead. First bolt clipped. Def hardest from bolts 1-3, but the lingering pump made the rest an ongoing challenge. Top roped it after and it was no easier, lol, I was gassed. I'll have another go with fresh arms though...
Still have no idea what the beta in the route description refers to. Just follow the bolts! |
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星期二 19th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
22 |
★ Living on the Ceiling Direct Finish
![]() | 一般 | |||||
Might never bother climbing this one again. One move climb, awkward, desperate move to crest the roof, not much fun. The lead-in shared with the original climb is the best part
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21 |
★★ Pull Apart
![]() | 19m | ★ 好 | ||||
Why is the route description full of beta?? I'm glad I climbed it before reading.
The description is trash and the rock LOOKS chossy, but it's actually pretty good, and quite a good route. Mostly decent holds but pumpy all the same, and a few nice moves. |
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22 R |
★ Palm Oil
![]() | 17m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Done this a lot lately, got it dialled, but it's still tough
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20 |
★ The Twenty-Eight
![]() | 16m, 1 | ★ 好 | ||||
Not bad. Delicate \balancy into some tough little crimps.
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星期一 18th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
24 |
★ Two Hour Hole
![]() | 18m | |||||
Crux went smoothly, happy with that
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24 |
★ Pussycats and Crushed Kneecaps
![]() | 18m | |||||
Quite fun
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星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
8 |
★ Leprosy
![]() | 15m | |||||
Led Pauline up this as her first trad follow.
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12 |
★ Balthazar
![]() | 13m | |||||
Pauline followed me up this as her second follow. For the grade there’s some moves at the top at the flake, great protection in the flake though.
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星期一 11th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
9 |
Justine
![]() | 19m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Cool start
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星期二 5th 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
21 |
★★ Klutz Connection
![]() | 14m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Finally sent nice and clean. Great climb. ALMOST 3 stars. Not that I can think of a reason it would lose any. No view? It's got a hands free kneebar!
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24 |
★ Klutz
![]() | 13m | |||||
Still clueless. Unless I'm allowed to put feet in the couch corner? Still, those holds are all impossibly small...
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17 R |
★★ Resurrection
![]() | 14m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Possibly the best variant, off a klutz top rope, up resurrection until just after the klutz crux, then finish up klutz. Grade 17-18 all the way up
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星期天 3rd 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Billiard Table | |||||||
19 R |
★ Popular Miss Conception
![]() | 16m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Clean but a struggle today. Getting into position to do the big LH cross to the jug wuz difficult and also the end. I should do this more often, cool route.
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星期天 3rd 3月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
24 |
★★ No Mustard on Withdrawal
![]() | 21m | |||||
The traverse and drop down move was scary but that could just be my short legs 😢 Cool moves through the crux once you work out what to do and then it’s just trying to control the pump easy climbing to the end.
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23 |
★★ Japetus-Stench Connection
![]() | 20m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Good line, pumpy
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24 |
★ Two Hour Hole
![]() | 18m | |||||
Sorted the moves so will be back, scary to the second bolt
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星期四 29th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
21 |
★★ Klutz Connection
![]() | 14m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
TRS projecting. Glad the TRS setup works fine with the roof. The crux is the first move after you step out onto the face, right? The first way I got up proved unrepeatable second time around and ruined my clean attempt. Think I've got a nicer sequence now.
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24 |
★ Klutz
![]() | 13m | |||||
TRS attempt, got nothing. Spent a lot of time sitting looking at the rock and I still have no idea how you're supposed to get up. All ideas lead off route one way or the other
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17 R |
★★ Resurrection
![]() | 14m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Still a great climb! Had a sit first time up trying to remember the crux
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星期天 25th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
16 Easy |
★ Twist and Shout
![]() | 15m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Probably slightly easier than the 16 to it’s left.
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星期六 24th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Billiard Table | |||||||
19 |
★ Entelechy
![]() | 10m | |||||
TR only. Got it clean after a few attempts and after encouragement from Bill.
Once you get the hold after the crux it feels a lot easier; before that I was thinking it felt like a 21 or 22 as it’s overhanging and difficult at the crux, but once you get the good high part of the LH good hold it almost feels easy. So it’s from the horizontal to the LH side pull, don’t muck around trying other stuff.
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星期二 20th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||||
16 R |
★ Kamikaze
![]() | 14m | ★ 好 | ||||
Actually a bit rough for a warm up as the crux is a series of full crimps. Still a nice 'hidden gem' though
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20 R |
★★ Digital Input
![]() | 19m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Got the heel hook start into the finger lock! Famous last words, but I think I've finally got a nice sequence
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24 |
★★ Extra G Connection
![]() | 17m, 2 | |||||
Felt okay until the pinch, it's terrible I can't imagine holding that. Might have to try something else ...
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21 |
★★★ Extra G
![]() | 18m, 1 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Finally sent clean! Very nice sustained route
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22 R |
★ Palm Oil
![]() | 17m, 1 | |||||
Tried this on TR for the first time today. Interesting. I think I’ll return to see if I can get it clean.
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星期天 18th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
At last, it finally happened.
I think I was almost surprised I stuck it and almost dropped the match before kicking out and clipping.
Very low percentage move on a lead for me.
Stoked to finally link it all up after working it for this long!! Do I love it, do I hate it? Idk but it’s all part of the fun 🤩 |
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
And again. Perhaps I’m overshooting in anticipation or I’m preemptively releasing so I don’t slide down the rock if I don’t stick it.
Not sure what to adjust as I don’t even feel that fatigued after repeating the sequence up to it and sticking the move twice in a row after coming off
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Rinse and repeat. Fell again on the clean burn and stuck it twice after.
Need to figure out what’s happening here 🤯
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Up to the dyno and dropped the dyno.
Stuck the move twice after then lowered.
Feeling super dialled and locked in for the entire sequence up to it at least
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22 Easy |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Warm up/setting up TR for the gang. Always climb this a bit different. Always a little more pumped than I’d like
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22 |
★ Sardine
![]() | 21m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Watching the gang try this gave me some post send stoke to hop on. Felt reasonable although quite wandery making me wonder if stayed on route. Pumpy but always something good around.
Similar to Terra Incognito with pump but a lot more resty
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Im getting quite good at falling before getting the rail at the third bolt now.
Surely any burn now this will happen. I always manage to pull back on and top. After falling once at the crux.
Need to return in better conditions maybe and shoes ? |
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Another burn and another bottle. Just not hitting it quite right. Can one blame their shoes? 👀
Stuck the move and lowered off the third. |
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
After watching Vaughan, basically onsight this and the stoke being at an all time high I still managed to bottle the the move.
The rest feels dialled though.
Thanks for the super soft catch Vaughan!
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22 Easy |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Cleaning
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22 Easy |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Warm up for Stench
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星期天 18th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
The Lost Walls | |||||||
16 |
★ Septic Tank
![]() | 11m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Yes.
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星期二 13th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Far Crag | |||||||
22 Hard |
★★★ Barad Dur
![]() | 20m, 1 | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Pumped at the top
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星期二 13th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
23 |
★★ Japetus Direct Finish
![]() | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||||
First go on this one . Good times
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22 ~21 |
★★ Terra Incognita
![]() | 20m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Soft 22
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星期天 11th 2月 2024 - Morialta | |||||||
Thorn Buttress | |||||||
25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Last burn for the day and bottled the dyno. Got good height and just didn’t quite latch the hold.
Went back up and finished the route. Overall stoked with my progress. Any session now it could go |
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Messed up my foot beta on the dyno.
Quite the exhilarating fall.
Dialled the dyno and didn’t top. |
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25 Hard |
★★★ The Stench Before the Storm
![]() | 19m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
First burn of the day.
Took a rest after clipping the second.
Lined up the dyno and got it first go and continued to the top. Incredibly stoked to get the move and do this in one hang. Stuck the dyno again on lower too. I progressed a lot faster than I thought I would. ELV R training definitely helped my mental for this dyno. |