攀登 in New South Wales and ACT by Brendan Heywood

Was getting pretty juiced by this stage on dusk

I was pretty cooked and couldn't hold the thing crimp so I worked dynoing to the jug and was about an inch away. I might be able to stick the less good lip just under the jug

Perfect setup with 6 pads. Had a couple goes and fairly consistently getting to the same high point as before. Ben sent it which ramped up the stoke, I taped up my right ring finger which I think helped. Just managed to keep bumping my left hand as far as possible, got the right toe pulling hard and then just desperately jabbed it up and to my complete surprise stuck it. Woot! I am so super stoked with this send and this route is totally ace

Brutal fun

Almost got the flash, one flash pump after another probably isn't the best way to warm up

Did the dyno and then had a pretty funny unexpected stack mid mantle

Such an ace route, first go

Warmup, almost got it first try,flash pump out literally an inch from the last hold. Got it second go

Thrutchy goodness

Had a couple goes on dusk. As always it felt super fingery at first but then I relearnt it and did the crux twice but no topout

Off balance with marginal knee scums to hold you in. A bit of ape helps

We tried this a few more obvious ways which felt doable, but unlocked it with and inverted sequence

Powerful and quite bunched, probably easier if you are shorter

Great little traverse, not a gimme

Also great, (but man who graded this stuff? oh yeah, hhmm)

It's so fun but never trivial getting back on this, might need a grade bump

Top half is moist, and pretty overgrown. Got to jug after second bolt

Benji getting some trad practice. This is a great route to learn trad placements on, bit of spice on the top out

I'd forgotten how good this route is, perfect rock, big dyno move (couldn't make it) or alternate left sequence

Finished up E7 which is quite nice, and much better than up the crack

Had a few goes, was really great to see this get sent as I've never understood how it went. Ape and good footwork needed

Hard, balancy, sharp, daunting

This is a beastly good little problem

You don't 'work' this problem. It works you. It's so easy, but also impossible.

Total quality

Had a few goes and not really feeling the jams. The cups naturally worked again for me, and on the last go got a pretty deep arm bar past the bottle neck and only a couple inches off the glory hold. Kinda kicking myself I didn't give it more

I did it with the chockstone in, then Benji eliminated a few things for a harder line

Apparently I didn't use the good hands, or the good feet, or any footers

Quick dusk top rope

Two laps

Aarrh this thing is so good! Got onto the top arete a few times and it just teases you and demands millimetre precision and balance. After about the 3 'one more time' Benji sent it in perfect style and history has been made. We built up a much better log base this time, with 5 pads

Couldn't quite rock through today

Lovely layback and span

Got on this on a whim not expecting much while dragging a pad and to my surprise got it second go. Which then trigger the silliness to the left

5-10 minutes of log stacking, and then this went down a little too easily to initially justify the effort, but then ...

Wow this thing was a great fight and I nearly moved on a couple times. Ben and Benji did it different which worked with their ape way out left, I found a better sequence for me which is more direct into the saddle off a tenuous sloper and then into slosh, and then stuffed my feet up and fell. Then much chalking and drying later and another couple attempts finally nailed it. Super happy with this send

Not sure if it was the cold temps today but I jumped on this and got it first go. I struggled on this months ago. It certainly is not due to my 'covid training'

A pulled on a few times on the higher holds, and almost caught the top dynamically. I can barely even hold the lower start holds. But enough to make me want to come back and work this again.

Another lap. Might need a downgrade to V2?

Compressiony fun

This scrubs up into a nice arete problem

Fun headlamp session, high point was on the disk crimp