线路 in Central Tablelands for selected grade

Incredible rock, incredible climbing and incredible position. Take plenty of draws (18ish), especially for pitch 2. Generously bolted (I think). Interested to hear what people think .

1. 25m (20) - Easy slab, face climbing. Up corner, flakes and crack. Some fragile rock. Take care on top out. There is loose rocks your belayer won't want on their head. DBB for P2

2. 40m (26-28?) - Insane pitch up crack and arete to upper bulge. The crux at 2/3 height is very cool. Come out of the corner, onto arete and face and span to a committing pop. Then easy and to ledge and TBB (18ish bolts?)

3. 25m (26-28?) - Pull mini roof to some balancy face climbing. Scoot around little prow then up and right, then back left and up to ledge and TBB. (Not sure what is happening with old rope, gear. Needs taking out).

4. 30m (26-28?) - Easy off ledge to little roof boulder. Airy and committing through roof. FA involved swinging wildly off the jug to establish toe hooks and heel hooks on lip then hands follow. Up balancy prow to ledge and TBB.

5. 30m (25) - Fantastic swooping pitch across vertical wall. Could be a sting in the tail. Up to ledge and DBB.

6. 15m (10) - scramble through vegetated corners out left to topout. Clip bolt on small exposed slab after top out then belay off big gum tree out right. 120cm sling or use your climbing rope as anchor.

The route is all too obvious - a bottomless chimney hanging over your head like gaping dinosaur jaws. A unique experience, not soon forgotten.

Sit start at left of cave, move along the low line to the far right, finishes out of the mini cave. Many varients open for other 'scends. The first line sent in Saturns Forge, 22 May 2010, zjparer.

Amazing climbing up a long blunt arete, but quite tough. Just a single aid move low-down on the route! Bring a light rack for the initial start up Mixed Business.

Start as for Mixed Business. Up to first bolt on MB, then follow line of bolts heading left to the arete. Aid off first bolt on the arete, then climb free to the top.

Pumpy, steep greatness! Popular. Batman to the first bolt of TWoAF, and start from here. Permadraws added Nov 2017 and replaced when neccesary. As always, check all fixed gear and don’t blindly trust it. Lowering from both steel anchor biners will greatly prolong the life of the last permadraw biner.

Not very nice.

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH.

Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH.

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH.

The face between the arete of Our Way, and the corner of Back Off (perpendicular to Microcosm). Straight up the face, avoiding the corner/crack and the arete. Thin, balancy, technical moves of boldly spaced bolts. Finish up the arete on the right side of the face (formed when Back Off becomes a chimney).

Black/Grey painted carrot bolts.

Thin face climbing up the superb clean sweep of rock right of The Righteous Brothers

Climbs the improbable blank-looking white streak. Very cruxy.

Powerful moves to gain the white rock, choose the LEFT line of bolts, and tackle extremely bouldery crux moving left to flake, followed by a technical and committing headwall.

Might be significantly easier with a long enough wingspan.

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

Just outside the cave. The top is wet in rain.

Amazing steep line following the crack where the roof of the cave joins the wall. Stickclip and Batman 4m to DUB anchor on ledge avoiding damaging vegetation. Climb steep corner on jugs and small crimps and follow crack under roof. Exit roof and follow easy crack for few meters. Downclimb and back clean, no anchors.

Blast up the ironstone monorail . All time.

Common start with Mandingo. Follow the left line of bolts.

Start just to the right Berk, Berk, Bekawrk on the left edge of the main wall. A long outing with some unlikely pockets.

Sustained climbing on good edges up the slightly overhanging wall. Starts up short hand line 100m left of Canyonero.

Arapiles style Trad climbing with bouldery moves and rad jugs. Bomber gear and easy to place... get on it.. DBB.

Boulder start, slab to roof (do or fly). Pumpy face above on some big rounded features. Marked "23!" at base.

Another link up, starting up Voice of America and linking into Radio Baghdad

Hard bouldery climbing at the top may be harder now, as it has lost the edges on the crux holds which made it alot easier. Start as for Voice of America. Up the lower wall past a RB to the break. Step L 2m and make a big past an undercling to another bouldery move L to the start of the scoopy holds heading up the highest part of the wall. Watch the wall behind you.

Start left of the arête. Past tricky slab, then continue up right to arete, good holds take you up the steepness and a pump crux towards the top. Anchors are guarded by a tricky throw on pumped arms. Resistance climbing at its best!

Start: Lefthand route. Starts at the end of the 'death traverse'.

One of the best of Steve's new routes. Tricky, hard and full of memorable sequences.

A tricky and demanding wall route with a couple hard boulders. Now with new start off the ground just left of Traction Thrash.

The left of the 2 obvious seems

Steep, Thin and now with fresh bolts.

Start: Wall on right. Bolts.

Often overlooked, but worth your time if you've already done the other classics on this wall. Sustained, technical climbing, with a very thin finale. Up K&Qs for 5m (to the small tree) with optional #3 Cam, bridge out right to clip first bolt. Blast across the bolt and out onto the face, then follow linked features to epic sting-in-the-tail finale. DRB.

Short. Start a few metres left of the "39 Steps" ladder on ledge at brightly painted "T".

Bouldery down low then fight the pump. Shares anchors with Stockholm Syndrome

Burly boulder problem crux and a rad deadpoint/dyno to finish (unless long draws are on anchor then its a 21) Packs a punch for a short climb.

Shares the same anchor as JA. A sustained and fun route: yes, you can get pumped in just 10m!

As of 27/8/17 the large shale jug at the second bolt ripped off and the pinned edge is moving. Please don't climb until fix.

Short, with a bouldery mid-height crux and potential to fall off the finish.

Awesome climb of mixed styles. Can seep after long periods of rain.

Boulder start in the cave immediately left of Circle of Doom. Heads right at top to share last bolt and anchors with its neighbour.

middle of wall past the arête (B.N.)

do the direct start (or not) and then up the blunt arete

3 parts to this climb to test the all rounder

Starts from up on the ledge at DBB. steeply up and left to rest before crux then pull on some small holds to gain another jug before a committing move, then easily to anchors

This great linkup provides an easier approach to the high inviting corner/arete of La Realite N’Existe Pas. Pumpy for the grade.

A satisfying line that goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Desperate 27 if you’re short, but more like 25 if you’re tall, so we’ve given it 26 as an average.

The second half is also very worthwhile, with an intriguing crimpy sequence requiring good footwork,followed by a small rooflet

Sustained and thin technical climbing, one of the best 26's at bell. This route is the full package and should be on your todo list.

Big move at the start to a good but small hold then steep climbing to a lay down rest. The mid crux is all about some double undercling madness. Steep finish with big moves on big holds. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 6 foot

Great route, with a hard leftwards traverse out the roof, then some of the best rock at bell for the slick headwall. Fixed draws in the roof make it an easy clean.

Popular. Up and left along the jug rail for four bolts then up with the crux right at the end. Short but action-packed.

Steep roof start past a creaky pinned flake to a vague rest. Continue up the semi-steep wall via two cruxs.

Starts as for Cavity Search then head right at the first roof. Nice upper wall.

Kind of an obvious linkup with some bolts that are otherwise undescribed. Up arete as for Autophagocytosis, but where it goes L via ridiculous reach, go straight up wall to Frontiers (middle) anchors.

Not an obvious (or lovable) start. Hard moves through the roof, with a second tricky bit right before the anchor.

Start just left of WP. Up the thin steepnees and then join into THC for last easy moves to the top.

A fairly crucial crimp snapped off in Jul 2018, it is likely much harder than 26 for short people.

A short, steep and fierce corner with two solid fistjams separated by the obvious ‘windscreen’ feature. Last bolt is hard to clip. Consider taping up if you’re anticipating having an epic

The route on large streaked red face a few hundred meters east. Aproached by turning left and following ridge after first saddle of approach. Best to bring a 50m rap line and leave fixed at top. Rap 50m from top rap point to triple bolt belay on ledge beneath rooflet. Rap 25m from here clipping quite a few bolts on your left until you can get to top of small elevated pinacle/platform. Single U belay.

1. 25m , 23 , A very good and sustained pitch. A dyno guards the lower wall. Blow it , pull up and find the good hold , come down, re-tie and enjoy the rest.

2. 30m , 26 , A slow burner with a good variety of moves culminating in a powerful cross from a shallow mono/crimp.

3. 30m , 24 , Tricky traverse with some hidden holds to a crux move then fairly sustained climbing easing a bit through top half.

A remarkable orange face on the side of a giant semi-detached pillar topped by a vertical wall. Great climbing on every pitch, no shale bands and all good bolts. The cliff faces almost due south and gets no sun at all - maybe a smidge in the late arvo in high summer. However the first ascent was done on a very cold winters day - a day of fire and ice. Save this route for summer or pack a downie!

Minimum gear requirements - 18 draws, a few long runners and a single 70m rope + usual belay/self rescue gear. Walking out from the base of this route would be proper epic. The crux sections have closely spaced bolts but the route wanders around and is overhung so a confident second who knows how to use prussics if they fall is important! It's obligatory for the leader to be able to climb grade 24 above bolts.

Getting there: Approach GPS Tracklog. Google maps is your friend! Walk in from Bells Line Rd as for Yesterday's Groove area - but continue past this for 500m to top of next bare hillside to the east (-33.582515, 150.351859). Walk down vague ridgeline east then south (it gets more obvious you are on a ridge as you descend) for 150m to edge of cliff (and hopefully a nice lookout towards Banksy). Look for small landslip/dirt ramp to the right (looking out) located under short upper cliffline. Cross this dirt slope and scramble along lowest small ledge for 20m to (hopefully) find short black rope leading to rap bolts. This top belay/rap point is located at (-33.582515, 150.351859). It’s a 35 min walk from carpark. Rap down all the way to the ground as shown on the topo. This requires 6 abseils directly down the wall (sometimes not down the route). All raps are under 35m so a doubled 70m rope will suffice. Bring a couple of slings and biners to leave behind to extend some of the rap points for easier rope pulls.

The first pitch is pretty brutal, but can be avoided by not doing the final abseil, and instead just doing the easy traverse to gain the belay for P2.

1. 28m (26) A slap in the face from the very first move. Intense thin face climbing for 20m then traverse right along break for 8m to exposed hanging belay on right edge of wall. Ignore high anchor midway through this pitch - it’s only used for rapping in.

2. 37m (25) The best pitch. Bouldery arete past the first couple of bolts then long magical journey up heavily featured orange face trending left to semi-hanging belay in small cave. Long runners useful.

3. 35m (23) The blob pitch. Left from the belay then up the unique blobby ironstone rock that resemble tufas. When the good rock runs out undercling like a fiend and run it out into grey scary jugs. Belay on comfy large vegetated ledge.

4. 35m (21) Grey face that starts out pretty desperate and eases off in the upper half with a few spicy runouts. Belay on big ledge and walk across vegetated “bridge” to main cliffline. Have a snooze and a snack.

5. 38m (24) Corner for 18m to small ledge, take a breath, then up left on small holds to semi-hanging belay in alcove. 16 bolts.

6. 35m (22) Flakes and nigh footholds for a couple of bolts then easier ironstone jugs to the top. Theoretically could be linked with pitch 5 for an uber long 75m pitch if you carried 30 draws or so.

Awesome 'finger-pickin' fun, or 23 M0

Start at pillar beside track before reaching California's buttress.

1. 25m (21)

2. 45m (26 or 23M1)

3. 30m (21)

4. 30m Scramble

5. 30m (20)

6. 30m (20)

7. 30m (21)

8. 30m (18)

1. 20m (22)

2. 20m (24)

3. 25m (24) or 25m (26)

4. 15m (24)

5. 8m (25)

6. 40m (24) Maybe bring some cams.

Topical discussion or spiritual epiphany? You be the judge.

A sustained new multipitch on a new section of wall at Pierces Pass, covering some nutty terrain, and with very unique climbing for the Blueys,

ACCESS: Walk down to start of Lunch Ledge, instead of going left towards Mirrorball, go right and cross the creek to cliffline with prominent arete (Pitch 5 of this route!). Scramble along narrow vegetated ledge left of the arete. The first set of rings is the topout of Pitch 4. Can rap the route from here (70m) but it is challenging due to the steepness, recommended to continue left to a small cave (above huge drop-off - take care). Crawl through cave and rack up at double rap rings with a smattering of old carrots near them. Fix 70m rope to bolts and rap off into the void (down the Abandoned Giles Project) - kick on the way down to stay in contact with the rock. About 30m down is an old set of FHs - best to clip one of them to stay connected to the rock. Eventually touch down on large ledge with a couple of small banksia trees. This ledge is big enough to walk around on without roping up.

Walk right along the ledge to a single ring belay, with rap anchors a few metres further right (over the void). A 35m rap from here (bounce in and out past the overhangs) will get you to the belay below P1.

1. 35m (25/26) 18 bolts - Easy climbing to first bulge. Slightly left through this to next bulge, and up and over via hard moves, staying on the LEFT-side of the arête. Trend left, then finish via some funky stemming. Consider a few long runners for drag. This pitch has a few bolts mostly for aiding past hard moves, which are not ideal for drag if clipped on link. Move belay 10m left to next set of ringbolts below left-facing corner.

2. 15m (23) 6 bolts - Extremely bouldery start (very hard if short) to the 2nd bolt above the belay, then pleasant gr21 to the anchor.

3. 45m (26) 18 bolts - The money pitch! A Spanish-style resistance excursion. Weird climbing for the Blueys. Up via tricky moves, then long rising traverse right with all the hard stuff near the end. Up small corner, then rising traverse back left on techy small-things (and weirdly mega rock) to belay. With 4 strategically placed long-runners rope drag is negligible.

4. 15m (16) 3 bolts - 6m of tolerable climbing past 3 bolts, then vegetated scramble to belay on ledge (make use of the fixed rope!). Move belay 10m right to single belay bolt on small stance below arete.

5. 15m (23) 8 bolts - Up left side of arete. Turn the arete, and up steep jugs to loweroff anchors.

Climb STMLTS for 8 bolts. Trend diagonally right past a bolt and across the corner (just below big bush), continue right and onto prow. Up prow, then long crux trucking rightwards across the void to the arete, and up the square-cut overhanging arete to jugs. From there, head straight upwards (goes DIRECT at the 2nd last bolt up the blunt-arête via shallow pockets, no piking out to the right!), heading back left to anchors after the last bolt. 19 bolts total. Consider 2 or 3 extenders on the bolts where the route heads rightwards across the crack, and 1 extender for the bolt immediately after it.

Steep, intimidating, committing and mega. 3 stars for this section of the route, only 2 because of the lower half. Hard moves past the roof to gain juggy flake, then more hard steepness heading out to the arete. Climb the left side of the arete briefly (STAYING AT THE ARETE), then up to anchors. Wandering further left away from the arête is OFF ROUTE (you can have 24 if you do it this way). 7 more bolts, 19 in total. Consider extending 5th bolt.

Links Sanction of the Victim P1 into Caveat Emptor Extension, to produce one of the most spectacular bits of climbing on this wall.

Good hard moves and a stunning headwall. From the lower anchors, continue up with immediately bouldery moves, traverse left, up past flake, back right to centre of stunning headwall, then crux getting to the top of the cliff. Don’t be a softy, top the cliff (mega jug just above the anchors) for the true tick! 7 additional bolts. Extend a few for rope drag.

Spectacular overhung flake and corner straight up the guts of the wall. This is a rap in, climb out sport multi. Best approach is to take two 60m ropes. Fix one to the top anchor and rap down to ledge above pitch 1 (you will need to clip into several bolts on the way down to not get stranded in space). Then double rope rap from there to the ground and pull your rope. A 80m fixed rope MIGHT make it to the ground. Brings 18 quickdraws and prussics.

1. 17m (18) Grey slab starting at orange corner on right side. 6 bolts. Comfy belay on big ledge.

2. 28m (25) Technical face up a series of subtle flakes with mostly poor feet. Semi-hanging belay at tiny ledge. 11 bolts

3. 35m (26) Bouldery face straight off the belay, crux through rooflet then long endurancy flake/corner in a wild position. Belay on comfy ledge or link into next pitch. 14ish bolts.

4. 10m (17) Exit pitch up ironstone jugs.

2 pitch sport route in a picturesque and exposed position that serves as the access rappels to 'The Thin Line' ledge. 1 x 28m and 1 x 38m rap.

1. 38m Gr. 26 Off the belay traverse right and up flake. Winds through interesting terrain with a number of techy and crimpy cruxes.

2. 28m Gr. 24 Surprisingly consistent climbing with a sting in the tail.

Start just right of the big cutout on this side of the wall that Pigs in Space climbs. Excellent climbing but with a hard and reachy crux. Enjoy the heroic moves to the anchors.

3m R of the arete.

Start from the ground!

Beautiful face, roof, and rightward traverse. Staple and bolt anchor. Back clean the traverse until the 2 rings at start of roof. Rethread left to right to clean face normally.

2nd clip is easy ground but certain groundfall, take care. Crux has shed a few holds but there's plenty left and it still goes.

One really long and sustained wall pitch and one short exit pitch. Rock quality isn't immaculate but it's a gorgeous line of least resistance with no escape for the forearms. Approach: walk in as for Thor Head main wall (down to Asgard Swamp and up the ridge until the views of the Grose reveal themselves). The track flattens out on this ridge and about 50m before Thor Head main wall the track drops slightly to a rocky flat area which is a good lookout. Exit tourist track on the right side just before this and walk back along edge of cliffline past small sandy cave for 30m to find fixed rope tied around small trees (GPS -33.5512, 150.2991 - refer to topo). Rap down this rope for 5m to ledge - walk across this (clipped into fixed rope) for 10m to rap anchors in small cave. Best to FIX a 60m+ rope to this anchor and bomb straight down to ledge and start of route. This bottom ledge is big and comfy and safe to walk around on unroped.

1. 50m (26) Long complex wall and flake features that doesn’t let up the whole way. Has a bit of a traverse right in the middle and a traverse left near the end. Belay on good ledge at two FHs. 25+ bolts.

2. 15m (18) Hangers up wall and corner right of the belay to rap anchors that you rapped in from. 4 bolts.

Start: Right of S. Up the prow.

A typical Law route, delicate and powerful at the same time.

Start: Start 10m R of BH, at the obvious bolted seam near the R end of the main wall.

The undercut arete.

2m R. Bouldery start at flake at head height, trending right to join 'Particle Accelerator' before its crux, clipping anchors out left below roof.

Steep funky climbing.

Start 2m R of EOF through steepness with a crux in the middle to big rest then bust on through chipped roof and pull lip (crux) then up head-wall another 8m with typical rope drag. Very gymnastic and lots of fun!

The extension to TCK.Craft a move past the TCK anchor , have a picnic, then up arette/scoop (crux) , crank through rooflet and up to DUB anchor.

Originally graded 24, but clearly something has snapped off as it's at least 26 now. Bolted arete 1m left of Casper's corner. Starts up the short arete to ledge. Scary clip of next bolt, then up face to dyno move to roof??!! Hard move left above roof then easy crimpy face to cracked bulge up high. Has repelled some serious contenders.

Squeezed in on the prow on the far right side of the wall. Marked '26' in chalk.

Crazy steep!

Start a few metres right of Haystack Madness. Stick clip 2nd bolt, then up through insane steepness on big jugs/breaks, to very punchy move just past the lip of the big roof. Then up the steep face, and into the big juggy roof to the anchors.

Starting just right of George. Quite the adventure. Some hard face climbing then onto the arete and up and finishing through final roof. The rope runs much better past the ledge if you clip bolts 5&6 then pull it through to get it out of the first 4 draws.

On right wall underneath overhanging buttress 20m right of Brain Haemorrhage. Left-trending line finishing at big chain lower-off.

Start up Flesh and Blood and keep traversing into TWOAF and finish up this for a mega pump.

Start left of cave on jugs then traverse past thin technical problem and keep traversing right on better holds and finish up wall and through roof left of TWOAF. 2 fixed draws.

About V4 - old boulder problem from the early days, just had to be bolted.

Start 4m R of IBaC.