Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
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星期五 27th 10月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster - with Claire | 8m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Really cool climbing.
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19 | ★ Pinchy the Lobster - with Claire | 6m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
I thought it was pretty easy for the grade. But I did pull off the anchor clipping flake and almost kill my belayer with it, so maybe it's a little harder now.
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星期四 14th 9月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
22 | ★★ Pockets of Blood | 8m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
After second clip I veer right to nice big side pull which pulls me to the ledge for 4th clip. Still working the body tension undercling traverse to anchors. Tough 22.
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星期三 13th 9月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★ Dave's Climb | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | ||||
Short slaby climb with some careful foot placement.
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22 | ★★ Pockets of Blood | 8m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Slopers and pockets similar to Lobster line. Really nice solid moves to the 4th bolt. Couldn't figure out the last moves to the anchor.
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星期二 12th 9月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster | 8m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Yew. Clean red point, back to back. Finally linked the last move right of anchors before ceiling.
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星期六 9th 9月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
27 | ★★★ The Red - with Scrumpy, Julian Hurrell | 11m, 8 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
A great climb in it's own right. Hard roofing on perfect rock.
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster - with Jason Smith, Julian Hurrell | 12m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Had three shots but still had to dog a couple of times through the roof but slowly improving and getting better at the moves.
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星期二 5th 9月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster - with Jason Smith | 8m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
So close to linking the final move clean. Move to roof much easier, however the traditional line is what I'm after.
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星期天 3rd 9月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster - with Jason Smith | 8m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Got the climb dialled after several attempts, however last move to slopers right of anchor needed some working, didn't link but feel it's a really fun climb with variety of holds and positioning
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星期六 26th 8月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
28 | ★★★ Roast Lobster Mornay | 24m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Classic big roof with a long intricate crux on perfect rock. Whaling over the top dragging a fat rope you wouldn't wish on your worst enemy!
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星期五 30th 6月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★ Dave's Climb | 10m, 3 | ★ 好 | ||||
Nice climb to finish the day
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21 | ★★ Lobster | 8m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Felt good second shot but still struggled with move to small ledges just right of anchors , keen to get it dialled.
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星期天 30th 4月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Centrepiece - with paul | 9m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Fun climb, took me a few goes to send it but got it on last attempt. Great little crag will definitely be back.
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星期二 25th 4月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
23 | ★ George's daughter | 8m, 4 | |||||
Wow. Hard.
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星期天 19th 2月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
19 | ★ Second Cave Carrots | 7m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Really well bolted
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19 | ★ Pinchy the Lobster | 6m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Little run out to the 3rd if you accout for rope out!
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21 | ★★ Lobster | 8m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Got the start mixed up. Led it easy the second go.
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星期六 28th 1月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster | 12m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Went to clean an old dog while I was in area. Absolute spooge - whole flake was soaking/slimy - I had no idea it could get like that being an ever-dry crag. Ah well.
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星期一 16th 1月 2017 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
22 | ★★ Pockets of Blood | 8m | ★ 好 | ||||
A bit desperate after the second bolt
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster | 12m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Draws were up, so it made it doable for the Onsight
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星期五 25th 11月 2016 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Lactic Acidosis | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Got the moves together but frigging strenuous.
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星期四 20th 10月 2016 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
25 | ★★★ Lycra lad | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
After the Onsight went belly up I was thinking this was a long shot. A bit of beta from Jules and trust in my rubber saw me through the seam start then just hold on to the top. Great routes.
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25 | ★★ Flash Me | 17m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Should of been Onsight but I got strung out on the top slopes and missed the good side pull. Clean it up a shot and a half later. The Start sequence still feels like the crux for me. Such fun climbing.
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24 | ★★★ Lactic Acidosis | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Went a bit south at the first crux, managed to get back on line and keep it together. Not many holds in the top half, choose wisely.
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23 | ★★ Will O The Wasp | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Full deal warm up, I really liked this one. Tricky start with no chalk on the holds and I really had to work hard to top out.
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星期四 13th 10月 2016 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Omega Free - with Jason Smith | 14m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Oh man, finally sent it with a little huffing and puffing. Hardest 26 that I have sent!
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26 | ★★ Crab Stick - with Julian Hurrell | 12m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Pre-work climb. Tried all sorts of crazy ways to get through the crux. In the end it was fairly straightforward, but still hard.
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星期二 11th 10月 2016 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
26 | ★★★ Omega Free | 14m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Nightclimb. Quality roof climb on slopers with tricky feet. Could easily pass as a 27!
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22 | ★ Tartar | 8m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Cool span across a roof. Reachy clips
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星期天 10th 7月 2016 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
22 | ★★ Pockets of Blood | 8m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Repeat
Tired doing the top move direct instead of using right jug... Got mega pumped and still had to use it. Probably 25 without it.
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19 | ★ Second Cave Carrots | 7m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Repeat.
Did the move direct at the first bolt, felt 22 that way.
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26 | ★★★ Omega Free | 14m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Hard lor for 26 but got easier with every lap. Very sustained steep climbing on holds that just aren't as good as you would like. Juiced out at the last clip..
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25 | ★ Calamari | 8m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Short and hard.
Easy up to the roof then a roof boulder via an edge and blob. Felt pretty hard but changed the beta and sent 3 shot.
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28 | ★★★ Roast Lobster Mornay | 24m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Just a quick little play on the moves above the roof flake. The roof itself was very wet but the moves up to the dyno we're dry and felt good. Top was running with water.
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19 | ★ Pinchy the Lobster | 6m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Warm up lap.
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星期二 24th 5月 2016 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Ginger Meggs | 8m, 5 | 一般 | ||||
Harder than it looks.
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23 | ★★ Will O The Wasp | 15m | ★ 好 | ||||
Bit of toilet paper to absorb the brown gunk at the base and it went. Awesome after the first 2 metres.
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星期天 1st 11月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Gaucho | 10m, 3 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Training laps
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21 | ★★ Black Panther | 10m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Training laps
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22 | ★ Intralabial layback | 10m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Training laps
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星期天 1st 11月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Mid Life Vice | 12m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
Off the Dog list
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23 24 | ★ Feel Fine | 15m | ★ 好 | ||||
Still nails down low, done a while back
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25 | ★★ Flash Me | 17m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Fell at top, training day
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24 | ★★★ Lactic Acidosis | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Training day....
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星期天 18th 10月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
17 | ★ Left Hand Slab - with Ro-boat, Tristan Lever, Gwen Shoemaker | 13m, 5 | 一般 | ||||
Clean lead at second attempt (did fall practice during first)
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星期六 17th 10月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
22 | ★★ Scallops - with Tristan Lever | 10m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Rock quality is really good - very slopey crimp traverse requires better conditions though!
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23 | ★★ Beautiful Box (First cave) - with Ro-boat | 10m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
In decent conditions this would be great. Slopey boulder problem (very Sissy in style), juggy pumpy end. Moist when I tried it.
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster - with Tristan Lever | 12m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Bah so much for a "ever-dry" crag. The entire flake was more than moist. Nice pumpy jug haul - next time!
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星期五 16th 10月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Spider PIG (Spider Monkey) - with Gwen Shoemaker, Tristan Lever, Mikki | 10m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Both spider monkey and spider pig.
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21 | ★★ Lobster - with Tristan Lever | 8m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
That final undercling is a tricky one.
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星期天 11th 10月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Will O The Wasp | 15m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Warm up 3...
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25 | ★★★ Lycra lad | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
So the plan is to tick all 5 routes on this wall in the one session. Bit more fitness. The first to do it gets a 6 pack from anyone in on the syndicate.
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24 | ★★★ Lactic Acidosis | 15m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
So close today. Done a year back.
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星期天 11th 10月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Black Panther | 10m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
warm'n up
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22 | ★ Intralabial layback | 10m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Still a bit thin,bt felt ok today.
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10月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Spider PIG (Spider Monkey) | 10m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
next time: better shoes and more commitment!
nice swing though |
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17 | ★ Left Hand Slab | 13m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
broke off a damn rock under the anchors, which destroyed my flash.
Apart from that super nice slab on solid rock! |
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星期三 2nd 9月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★ Fishermans basket | 16m, 7 | |||||
Shouldn't have tried. Morney shattered me almost entirely.
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster | 12m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Warmup before doing it twice again on the way to the Morney.
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28 | ★★★ Roast Lobster Mornay | 24m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
One step forwards two steps back. Good news; the mid sections to the Tetradactyl Dyno much more fluid now; the 23 hardly gives any pump anymore. Having projects on roofs mean that if you fall with slack out you won't be able to get back up which make me hesitant to clip off the gastons... Need to just man up and do it without hesitation. This is the Junkyard Dog Extension of the Central Coast. Thanks to whomever left the draws on the roof. Helped a lot!
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星期二 1st 9月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Tiny Dancer | 8m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
There is a Niko Super Sandbag Variation at around grade 24-25 using the two chalked up mono-pockets because you didn't see the (non-chalked) undercling bellow.
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24 | ★★ Ginger Meggs | 8m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Hmm... Everything else outside of the cave was extremely manky today.
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星期天 19th 7月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster - with Ian.Grabowski | 8m, 6 | |||||
slopper de lopper . dont even know what the means but it sounds cool. finally got this almost didnt make the last move. this climb is def about technique ,you cant bench press your way out of this one.
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星期六 18th 7月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster - with Ian.Grabowski | 12m | ★ 好 | ||||
wow what a softy iam didnt even have the balls to clip after the roof lol roof actually doesnt look to hard up until the last move.next time i will be keen to go for it
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster - with Lucas C | 12m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
2nd try in 2 parts - to the roof - roof to anchors.
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21 | ★★ Lobster - with Lucas C | 8m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Missed the onsite unfortunately on the last hold - 2nd try went. Nice sloper section to interesting finish. Sweet climb.
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星期天 21st 6月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster | 8m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
First project down finally got past the undercling move which was throwing me off. New beta for the undercling makes it REALLY easy so I actually get to the top with very little pump.. Next time I'm gonna get on the roof!
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星期一 8th 6月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster - with Sam Clark | 12m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
x3
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28 | ★★★ Roast Lobster Mornay - with Sam Clark | 24m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
x2. First time making it out to the bottom anchors; second time realising there are two more U Bolts to go to topout; boldly set out on a mission the second time. I ended up ripping a lot of rock from the crumbly topout roof. My verdict; A classic up to the bottom anchors; the topout is not worth it unless you're after the full tick. Am I going to get this clean? Well... Call the pope, as at 3 consecutive miracles through the route I will be surely pronounced a saint.
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23 | ★★ Beautiful Box (First cave) - with Sam Clark | 10m | 不值一提 | ||||
Used the start from the omega free which made the climb a lot more pleasant. However the amount of sand in those pockets is completely unprecedented; shame, nice moves otherwise. The shared 21 Anchor Chain is getting quite weathered. Be ware.
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星期五 15th 5月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★ First cave | 10m | |||||
What the... so I went up the tiniest of crimps up to a lonely u bolt in the middle of the wall as per the topo (I think its the joined start of project). Got to to just under the roof matched on to a thin crimp and then stared perplexed two meters away at the next hold. Did something snap off or am I blind??? Even then it took me a considerable amount of tries (make that around 4 falls) and effort to get to the second u-bolt. Beta anyone?
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28 | ★★★ Roast Lobster Mornay | 24m | |||||
Hard! Still a good way away from finishing this. Fell with a lot of slack so came straight down!
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星期六 11th 4月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Ginger Meggs - with Ruth Piper | 8m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Only just stuck that move.
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19 | ★ Tiny Dancer - with Ruth Piper | 8m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Short but still fun
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21 | ★ Mid Life Vice - with Ruth Piper | 12m, 6 | ★ 好 | ||||
End of day itis
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星期六 11th 4月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Spider PIG (Loftys route) - with Piper | 10m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Rpt. Still good roof fun
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23 | ★★ Beautiful Box (First cave) - with Piper | 10m | |||||
Tough on the slopers today
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22 | ★ Tartar - with Piper | 8m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Rpt
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24 | ★ Tartare - with Piper | 8m | ★ 好 | ||||
Rpt. Tough and a little contrived.
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster - with Piper | 12m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Rpt. Couldn't come to lobster and not do a lap.
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星期四 2nd 4月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster | 12m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Had to do numerous laps today with Tom as the holds were almost completely soaked in parts. We had mer minutes to get back on the climb before it became wet again. Finally sent this bad boy. Phenomenal roof climbing
P.S Double toe hook FTW! |
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22 | ★ Tartar | 8m, 4 | 糟糕 | ||||
Would be good, however; Who ever bolted this is obviously tall. Awful bolt placements all around which would be better for the tall (had to clip half way through the crux section of each bolt with each section requiring me to clip to avoid injury). What is inexcusable however are the anchors. They are extremely poorly positioned with very little foresight. The gate of the quickdraw is resting right on the rock so any movements above are constantly pivoting the gate into the open position.
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星期天 25th 1月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
21 | ★★ Lobster | 8m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Weirdly ended up doing this puppy three times today. Who knew, 36' heat is not ideal conditions. Have awesome heel hook beta now for the anchors. Will definitely work next time. Just need it to be cooler for the intermediate sloper before the victory jug.
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster | 12m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Awful conditions today made this climb less than enjoyable,
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21 | ★★ Spider PIG (Loftys route) | 10m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Haha, completely butchered the last part by transferring my feet to the far right ledge flipping upside down pushing up and then splitting my legs so that I'm facing out wards. Then followed this performance by clipping in the anchors in a back arched 'Limbo' position. Sure; this is how it was meant to be done...
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星期天 18th 1月 2015 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Tiny Dancer | 8m, 4 | 一般 | ||||
Aided up to clip a lock gate on the second draw. Kind of a 3 move boulder problem, arguably harder than V0
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25 | ★★ Flash Me | 17m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
2 goes today. Did ok second attempt. Can get to pocket out right, 3/4 up, but the final 2 moves are strung out
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星期六 27th 12月 2014 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Main Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Tiny Dancer - with Jeanette, Brendan, Rob and Niko | 8m, 4 | 一般 | ||||
After axing myself into the wall no one else wanted to give this nor the 21 to the left a go. Even though once you get to the jugs it's pretty easy, it would feel a lot safer if there was another bolt just below the anchors which u can clip from the first jug to stop the ground fall.
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24 | ★★ Ginger Meggs | 8m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Yeeeeeeeeah! If you like powerful short climbs it doesnt get any better than that. Fantastic!
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星期六 27th 12月 2014 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Black Panther | 10m, 7 | ★ 好 | ||||
Took a few falls on this one. The rock has a lot of holds; or so it appears. Most are unusable thus takes some time to figure out which one to go for. Otherwise good climb, would redpoint it next time
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星期六 20th 12月 2014 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wagstaffe - Lobster Cave | |||||||
19 | ★ Second Cave Carrots | 7m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Funky movements. An easy boulder problem with protection.
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22 | ★★ Pockets of Blood | 8m | 一般 | ||||
Didn't appeal to me so much. Fell once on the second ascent. Hint - You have to go to the far right jug before traversing.
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21 | ★★ Lobster | 8m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Funky slopers and committing movements. Fell off the last move by dyno-ing to it; apparently the juggy looking hold is very much a sloper. Ticked it the second time around.
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23 | ★★★ Roast Lobster | 12m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Absolutely awesome. Did it twice as I had to clean it and no one in my group could get past the roof. When you're up there you feel like a part of the roof may crack and fall, but it has been reinforced with bolts and maybe glue too. Beware though, a couple of holds are quite sandy and suspect looking. Visually it's intimidating, but climbs easy and flows well for the grade given. Especially if you rest at the top of the 21
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19 | ★ Pinchy the Lobster | 6m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Probably the best route to warm up on. A minor crux 3/4 way up; good way to start trusting your feet. - BEWARE OF THE OVERHUNG HOLD BEFORE THE FINAL 2 U BOLTS. ITS LARGE, IT'S HOLLOW, IT'S CRACKED AND IT'S DAYS ARE NUMBERED! -
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星期一 17th 11月 2014 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★ Black Panther | 10m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Nice set of sequences. Second go after knowledge was imparted.
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22 | ★ Intralabial layback | 10m, 5 | |||||
Wow, Not so easy. Sandbag for sure. Powerful moves through the bottom. No layback but.
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星期三 8th 10月 2014 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Centrepiece (Centrepeice) | 9m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Well enjoyed
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星期二 7th 10月 2014 - Bouddi National Park | |||||||
Wards Hill Black Panther Wall | |||||||
17 | Areptile - with Anthony Greatorex | 9m, 3 | 一般 | ||||
Hard start for a 17 and bit sketchy at the top up to the bolt spacing. Had to use a silver foot hold or fall at the anchors.
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