条目 |
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Browns Road
Overlooking Upper Lane Cove River in a nice bushland setting this area has a mix of boulder top rope and lead climbs. The area is worth a visit as there is something for everyone. There are numerous possibilities for new moderate sport routes. Its probably worth mentioning that most of the rock here has seen some form of climbing at some point. Much of it is not recorded. So if you do put up a new route, record the details for future reference. |
Courtyard Area
The main Browns Road area is pleasant in various conditions as different walls are shaded and sheltered from the wind. It has many hard short climbs or boulders, plus slabs, cracks and offwidths, so it's worth bringing a rack. Many of the worthwhile top rope problems have also been equipped as mixed routes. |
Courtyard Area |
Following routes are on the main wall to your left when coming down the descent gully.
Most of these
Following routes are on the main wall to your left when coming down the descent gully. Most of these routes have bolts for top roping. |
14
Dirty Hand Crack
Short crack on left when heading down descent gully with dirt-filled rounded top. Better to learn to jam elsewhere. |
21
★ JP
Up slab between DHC and CB. Crux is before the first bolt. Thin, delicate face climbing, then a double mantle. Small pro for the top out. |
17
★ CB
Hand crack to start up, on to block step right then finish up offwidth. |
17
★ Fingers & Fists
Thin finger crack to start leading to offwidth. Only requires 2 offwidth moves to top out. Take your big cam on this one. |
K
Up Slab 1m right of FF |
22
★★ K2
Up slab 1m left of SS. Looks like a reasonable line if it was cleaned and bolted. Any takers out there? |
16
★ Sexy Sue
The obvious offwidth crack half way along main wall. Good line to practise offwidth skills, but can be climbed without them. |
17
★ JR
Up slab right of SS. Another of those thin slab lines that are the style of this area. now a mixed route. Small cam in pocket low down. |
16
★ Sardine
The thin hand crack at the south end of the courtyard. Good gear with some fun climbing. DBB. |
18
★ The Cheerful Giver
A delicate route with some interesting moves Start 3m right of Sardine. Follow bolts up right leaning feature over bulge to finish. 3 ringbolts to lower offs. |
19
★ Waving Wall
Slab right of The Cheerful Giver. Either finish direct or easier out R |
14
★ 8V2
It's probably 8 with a V2 start. 3m R of Waving Wall. Start off the ground, not the boulder. |
Now on the right side as you enter the courtyard.
Now on the right side as you enter the courtyard. |
22
★★ Pocket Rocket
1st route on right wall after entering courtyard. Single ring protects the thin start. Move up to jugs and horizontals. Up to rounded top out. Small medium cams. |
21
★★ PTTP
Up face past single BR to DBB on top of block. Thin start to sloping holds to gain the top. Lower moves offer some fun bouldering if you can find a partner. There are several rings to abseil from the top of The Block. You may need slings to extend these rings and various carrots for toproping, as some are set back from the edge. |
21
★ LON
Start Marked. Up face past one BR to DBB on top. |
16
★ Veronica
The offwidth on the block. |
23
★★ TC
Face climb left of Veronica. Looks to be in the high 20's |
21
★ Left Edge
Interesting line up right side of arete left of TC. Clip high 1st ring off boulder. Rap off ring on top (too much drag to lower), shares bolts on arete with Bolt Freak, plus one random ring high and right. Tag can be removed as glue is set |
21
★ Bolt Freak
Nice longer face climb on southern end of The Block, left side of arete. SHares bolts on arete with LE. Clip first ring from boulder. tag can be removed as glue is set |
YKS Wall
Wall to the north and west of the Courtyard Area. Basically you squeeze through the chimney and it is the climbs left and right. |
YKS Wall |
Turn left for the first few routes, even walk left around the back of the block. Routes R to L.
Turn left for the first few routes, even walk left around the back of the block. Routes R to L. |
20
★★ Flake to Nowhere
Up steep flake 2m R of BC chimney. Funkies then lower off or dirty mantle |
13
BC
Chimney on west face of block. Natural anchor at top and rap off rings into courtyard. The Usual Chimney style. |
20
★ Cockatoos
Arete right of Train. Slap up ignoring screeching cockatoos. |
18
T
Gets harder with height. Two carrots. Single ring belay. This is really a one move wonder, with the carrot protecting the top out move. |
17
★ S
Right of walk through chimney, Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it. |
Head through the chimney and turn R to reach the following climbs, described R to L.
Head through the chimney and turn R to reach the following climbs, described R to L. |
21
★★ Turramurra Two-step
Start: Rounded arete at the right end of YKS wall at the end of the access chimney from the Courtyard. Up arete and holdless rounded slab and right. 2 rings, optional carrot on easy finish. Carrot anchors near tree. |
21
★★ Square Faith, Round Hole
Old climb marked with "faint" painted square 2m from right end of wall. Ironstone crimpies to hole, then right easily past good cams (and old ring and bolt holes). Bottom half has very poor protection. Various carrot anchors. Maybe 18 to toprope? |
20
★★ U4ER
Euphoria, 3 funky sections with a slabby finish. 2 carrot anchor up top |
20
Think Rack
Start just left of thin crack up wall into crack and layback. 2 carrot anchor at top (easily retrievable) |
16
North Arete
Arete at northern (left) end of YKS wall with 2 TR carrots. Layback the twin crack features. To lead, maybe 18 with poor pro and a hard exit. |
20
★★ Fingerboard
Wall a meter left of easy crack. Top out or lower off |
21
Young Kids on Speed.
Thin slab with 2 BRs, finish right, straight over blocks, or left. |
17
★★ Old men on ibuprofen
Flake 1m left of Young Kids on Speed. Clip carrots on YKoS, dirty topout or lower off. |
14
Friday Arvo
A short face climb at the left end of YKS wall. Cams in breaks to rounded top out. Needs DBB |
Lower cliff
Short cliff down the hill from YKS Wall. Some of these climbs were probably done or soloed in the past. Has several pairs of new glued stainless top anchors, and some useless recent zinc-plated bash-ins that should be removed. Horizontal cam breaks tend to be good, opening out inside. |
Lower cliff |
14
May as well solo.
Start in middle of slab on ledge. Bouldery move protected by bolt to start, then up slab following natural line using horizontal breaks for gear - make sure you take a 20-30mm cam. Carrot belay - one rusty and one new stainless. |
15
Piss Easy
Start right of the arete (left of MAWS). Hard start past a bolt, then up the arete past another bolt and cams to the top. DBB. Bolted by previous party. |
14
★ Beans Bounce Upwards
Start about 3 m right of GOM move up over bulges then to arête and head up to single carrot then up to grumpy mans nose and top out. Cams and single bolt. Use same DBB as GOM |
16
★★ The Lost Art of Leadout
Start 1m left of Grumpy Old Man. Straight up the easy slab to solid double cams in break at 5m, feet up to pocket, then flat-handed topout. Use GOM belay, and intermediate pro in "Easy chimney" if required. |
14
★★ Grumpy Old Man
Gets it name from the feature at the top looking like an old mans face. Start in the middle of the slab. Up past two bolts until you reach the horizontal breaks. Move right to the old mans nose and then up to the top. Small to medium cams. DBB on top |
13
★ Easy chimney
The wide corner-crack with plenty of good gear and decent climbing - an easy trad lead. DBB on top or walk off. Probably done in the dark ages. |
17
★★ Sloper Sally
Notice from route setters Please do not climb this route until further notice. The starting holds are on a large flake; if this route sees a lot of traffic, the flake might break, making this climb several grades harder. Also, temporary bolts were used to set the route, which need to be replaced with glue-ins. Please be patient and help us conserve the crag so it can be enjoyed by people in the future. Description Up the slab to the right of Trolls Arete. Thin balance moves past bolt to a sloper layback top out. Left arête is off. |
16
★ Trolls Arete
Start at shallow crack. Up to ledge (bolt will be added to protect start) cams in pockets the up the arête. Thought provoking at the grade but a decent trad lead. DBB on top. |
18
Closed Project 4
Start at shallow crack on wall up past bolts and moving left to thin moves to finish on scoops below rounded top out. Needs lower offs added. |
The High Alley
Head along from YKS wall you enter an Alley with short walls on either side. The area offers good bouldering and traversing with decent landings. |
The High Alley |
V2
★ A
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
??
B
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
??
C
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
★ D Sit start
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★★ E Sit start
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V5
F Sit start
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V5
G Sit start
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V9
Bollywood Bad Boy
High line in the centre of the wall. |
TCFTH Area
At the northern end of the cliff, less than 10m from your car at the end of the cul-de-sac. An area with good longer trad, mixed and sport climbs. Take your bushcare gear and zap some of the abundant usual suspects while you're there: Lantana, Ochna, Privet, Fishbone Fern, Olive, etc. |
TCFTH Area |
17
★★ Tuff Cs Fall The Hardest
#Dangerous. This climb has a giant loose block above the bolts that appears to be balanced on a small chockstone. If you pull on it or snag the corner with a rope it may rip out. You have been warned. Right end off wall. Up crack to slab passing 2 BRs, horizontal break and up to top. DBB on top. |
19
★★★ TCFTH Origional
Up crack head left to FH, up wall past 2nd FH, cam in break and continue to top. Still waiting to get back and replace the old hanger. |
20
★★ Climb 1
Start 3m left of TCFTH. Lay back move to gain horizontal then traverse L to arête, then up to FH on R, and right to scoops, FH on L, (Horizontal for gear and) up on edges to Lower offs (DRB). There are an another set of DRBs, about 1m above the Lower offs, to rap in if you like. (All bolted with stainless in Sep. 2013) |
★★★ Climb 2 open project
Left end of TCFTH wall. Start at shallow crack. Up to FH on R, continue straight up passing an another FH and Lower Offs to share with climb 1. Cant remember if this one was actuakly bolted. got a feeling i ran out of glue. was a long time ago |
15
★ Browns Cows
Chimney and crack at left end of TCFTH wall. Mantle, short chimney then small roof and up crack to right. Solid pro in cracks and breaks, and tree belay. |
A0
Bolt Ladder
Line of close space aid bolts up blank wall. Looks like a good place to practise aiding. |
Left leaning crack
Starts to the left of the bolt ladder on ledge. Warning Loose Blocks. Up natural line of the crack heading left until meeting the finger crack. (loweroffs will be installed September 2014) |
Finger Crack
Start at the thin crack next to the chimney. Up to ledge step left then up nice finger crack to short headwall. (lower offs to be added September 2014) |
Head along and down the hill slightly to the cave. A little overgrown at the base but appear to be n
Head along and down the hill slightly to the cave. A little overgrown at the base but appear to be nice lines. Please record a grade for these if you climb them. |
23
UB1
Right line of close spaced ubolts through steep section to lower off. |
23
★ UB2
Left line of U Bolts. Follows the steep left side of the cave to lower off. |
Following on from the two sport climbs the bush becomes thick. How ever there are a number of Trad r
Following on from the two sport climbs the bush becomes thick. How ever there are a number of Trad routes down this way. They top out at the back fences of houses above so climbing them is not recomended. |
Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering
A number of bouldering problems have been done around the area but none recorded more than a letter listed below. Details of boulder problems done in the area would be helpful. |
Bouldering - Courtyard, The Block, Environs and other bouldering |
Courtyard |
V3
★ P
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★★ PTT
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★ PPT to Veronica
Traverse from the corner arête to Veronica. |
V2
★ Veronica to Arete
Another traverse. Start at Veronica and head left to the arete |
V1
FF to SS
Another traverse of the courtyard. Start at FF and head right across the slab to SS. |
V0
★ Long Traverse
Start at corner of block. Traverse along past s and t. step across and continue along wall towards YKS wall 10m |
V5
★★ 'D'
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
★★ Slap and tickle
Sit start. |
Orange Boulder
Walk to the end of the courtyard and turn right. Head down the gap and Orange Boulder will be on your left and the end of Spike boulder will be in front of you. |
V0
★ Orange boulder left side
Up the left side of jugs and out. Needs a scrub and the crumbly holds knocked off. |
V0
★ Orange boulder right side
Up the right side. Be careful, some weak holds need to be knocked off to make this better. |
V2
★ Volatile
Starting on sharp crimps traverse along lip to top out. |
V0
★★★ SEIBOOB
STand starting on two large jugs make way directly upwards. |
There are a number of good problems to be recorded on the right hand cave end in the future. Take a
There are a number of good problems to be recorded on the right hand cave end in the future. Take a brush have a scrub and try some stuff out. |
There are some chipped steps on the right end of this block that allows descent from the top. There |
V0
★ Right End Arete
Sit start then up arête and top out. Down climb the chipped steps on the right end of this block. |
V0
★ Spike Traverse
Traverse the main wall of the Spike Boulder. |
Cave |
V2
★★ Left End Cave
Start in the cave. Up on jugs out to a right hand crimp/jug then swing out and up. |
Slab and Cave
If you turn left at the end of the Spike Boulder / Block then head up the hill 4 or 5m there is another slab and cave with some easy problems to be had. |
V0
Sit Start Right
Sit start on the left then head in to jugs and up and out to sloper on face. I'm sure someone can link this up or extend it. |
V0
Left arm up.
Start on left of cave. Jug to start, foot up to edge, then extend let arm up to rail then move left to finish both hands on small edge. |
Unknown
Unsure of where the routes below exist as they were never really recorded accurately. |
V3
★ A - Sit Start
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V1
★ B
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★★ C
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |