Wow... kind of intimidating (and runout). The crux section isnt particularly hard... but committing and intimidating to establish... then just cruisy laybacking. Greatfun, and good to finally get on this.
Total Alzheimer's Onsight (its been 4.5 years since I last tried this!) First shot today placing draws as a warmup. I got really confused with the angle, and hung upside down mid-crux for ages before getting my bearings and cruising the route. Short but fun juggy thugging with plenty of kneebars. The 3rd bolt seems almost off-route to clip?
Awesome, probably one of my most memorable climbs of the day. In the dark, WITHOUT a headlamp. Clean to the crux (5th bolt) but took a few goes to figure out how to do it, then clean to the top. Felt like Lynn Hill doing the "houdini pose" on Changing Corners on this one. The top thin slab was exciting in pitch black.
3 shots. Second shot I came off one move before the no handsrest near the top (no idea why, either). Third shot was without any rest, and I was just too tired. Hardly an aesthetically pleasing line, but it climbs quite well, and with good footwork feels very static and controlled. A few definitely "cruxy" moves, though not hard for the grade. Will probably give this one another shot down the line, though roofs are hardly my thing.
