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Main Wall - Trade sector

20

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描述

The main wall incorporating all routes from Trade Route through to The Art of Seeing.

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线路

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Grade 线路

Start as for ‘The Art of Seeing’ (1 BR) and trend left into the steep crack line. Continue past an undercling crux at the 4th. A 5th BR gets you to the break line. DBB lower off.

首攀: 2017

Climb 'Trade Route' to its finish, then continue above to reach the 7th BR (normally extended). Up to a prominent handjam then run it out 3.5m to the left hand anchor.

首攀: Steve Kelly, 26 5月 2018

Climb 'Camel Filter' to the handjam at the end of its crux (7th BR), then up right past final boulder problem (8th BR) to lower off.

定线/开线: Nick Ducker & Matthew Broadbent, 2017

首攀: Steve Kelly, 7 12月 2019

自由首攀: 7 12月 2019

Climb ‘Marlboro Red’ to the 7th BR then head directly up face to the start of the roof for a brief rest. Use pinches and crimps to fight through blank bulging roof clipping 2 more bolts to gain final head wall. (Extend last draw past lip of the roof to minimise rope drag)

定线/开线: Redanon

首攀: Daniel Toone, 6 7月 2020

Climb ‘Camel Filter’ to its (6th BR) then break right clipping 3 more to gain a set of jugs over the lip. Mantel and finish up the corner at The Art chains.

定线/开线: Redanon

首攀: Daniel Toone, 6 6月 2020

Takes the line between Trade Route and Art of Seeing to the anchor under the roof.

首攀: Paul Kinnane, 2023

Climb 'Trade Embargo' to its 5th BR (extend draw) then break left into the traverse of Silk Rd, (BR optional but skipped on FA). From the blocky undercling of this, clip high bolt (extend draw) and launch up the groove. At the next BR (shared with Marlboro Red), head left and finish via Camel Filter.

定线/开线: Redanon

首攀: Mitch Slocombe, 26 2月 2023

A slightly easier variant to Baccarat King. Clip the first Baccarat King roof bolt and then traverse left via a bouldery sequence on underclings until to get to the nearest Marlboro Red footer. Then straight up from there into the Marlboro kneebar and finish for that route. The second roof bolt can be clipped from the good kneebar (if you have long arms), or the sharp blade half way along the traverse. The sharp blade looks sound, but it is worth your belayer being vigilant in case it breaks!

首攀: Paul Kinnane, 3月 2023

Mega line straight up the highest and steepest part of Red Cliff. Climb Trade Embargo to its anchor, then move slightly right and up into the roof for a good kneebar rest. Blast out directly through the roof onto the headwall and head up on desperate sidepulls into the Marlboro kneebar and finish as for that route. Credit to Redanon for bolting and cleaning the route.

首攀: Paul Kinnane, 7月 2023

Up slab as per Trade Route then right up to base of deep crack. Up & right to slopers (4th BR on face) and up the blank wall/corner to the good break under the roof. From here take first weakness out main roof to 'the bowl hold' on the lip. Continue through tricky terrain to good jug several moves above. An easier section through the final rooflet gets you to the chain just below cliff top. Take 10 draws (two for the chain) and back clean.

首攀: Steve Kelly, 1 7月 2015

The following routes represent link ups of original established lines.

Climb 'Trade Route' to the traverse line, then finish as for Shelf Life. Back climb. Careful with rope drag.

首攀: Redanon, 10月 2017

Trade Route to traverse (skip Trades anchor & clip traverse BR with 2ft extension). Pull small roof left of next BR, then up into corner and out onto hanging arete. Finish as for Camel Filter. Be careful of rope direction/drag at top of Trade (or use double ropes).

首攀: 15 11月 2020

[NOT CLIMBABLE AT PRESENT]. Start as for Trade Embargo, but instead of climbing right of its bolts, clip the 2nd (now moved) and then launch left into the jug before Trade's crux and finish via this route. Due to be re-equipped.

首攀: Redanon, 26 1月 2023

Links Winfield into Camels Don't Sweat

首攀: Daniel Toone, 5月 2023

Take Emphysema to its crux, then instead of moving right under the final bolt, move left via gastons into the very finish of CDS.

Links Winfield into Emphysema

首攀: Daniel Toone, 4月 2023

Climb Winfield Blue, and instead of going left into Camel Filter, finish up Marlboro Red. You will most likely be too pumped to clip the first Marlboro draw after the Winfield section, so it is recommended to skip it!

定线/开线: Redanon

首攀: Joanna Lazniewska, 29 4月 2023

Take 'Black Market Art' into 'One Hold One Quest'.

首攀: Redanon, 19 2月 2023

Climb "Trade Embargo" to its 5th bolt, then traverse right and up to a high crimp before making a big move across the gap to the good break under the roof of "The Art of Seeing", then finish as for that route. Extend 5th, 6th, and 7th runner.

首攀: Mitch Slocombe, 11 2月 2023

The Art of Seeing start into One Hold One Quest finish.

首攀: Steve Kelly, 11 6月 2016

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