线路 in Queensland for selected grade

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Fantastic, absorbing vertical climbing with a punchy finish. This could now be the best single pitch sport route in the Glasshouses at the grade.

Start: Just R of 'Squealer'

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

Already a classic.

Killer little overhang. Fun, punchy moves. Lower-off. Find a gullible seconder to clean.

The right most line on the wall before the corner.

Start: Start as for 'Howler' and veer right. Wailer has a separate 1st bolt 1 meter right of 'Howler'.

This second climb established at the cliff is a demanding steep route, start from the little cave. Avoid doing a double heel hook no hands rest at the 3rd and you'll walk away without ruptured abbs like visiting Brit Ben Heason!

3 UB's up the shallow corner and slab to base of the steep wall with seam running up it. Long and strong moves on big holds up this (welcome, gym climbers) to ledge. Two rings off the ledge then move R into the the sustained finish of Over The Falls.

Slab to some tricky pocket pulling. Sustained headwall also not a giveaway. Probably the stiffest 25 here.

Start from the big belay ledge down hill from Saxicoline. Stick clip the first bolt, climbing upwards to a good rest. The wall gets “off vertical”, as you make your way across the “shield” feature. Classic moves all the way, punching upwards to the high anchor.

Start at large "BARFJ" mark.

Very sustained. Up smooth face to high RB. Continue past further 4 RBs and slightly R to anchor.

U-bolts then FH's. Up easy corner as per original, but then straight up the face. Really great pocket moves. Some deviate briefly into OTF just before the ledge which makes it easier. Possible to go direct - both are fun.

Two bolts up the corner to ledge. Step across the void onto the wall, and up past four bolts to lower-off. Take a #1 cam for the top or dare the run out. A couple of bouldery moves in a breezy position!

Climb The Green Room to the ledge and instead of going right, climb directly up without deviating past 4 UB's to another anchor.

Sharp pocketed climbing for masochists.

Start: 5 metres left of great devoid.

Go up SHGTTD and continue in the YCT extension. Adds more climbing to a short route but no change in grade.

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

Start as for previous but once off the ground, step right to first bolt in R-leaning black corner. Up this til possible to lean left and clip UB on steep wall. Punchy moves up this (2 UB's) then easier headwall.

The original line. Sit start on jugs in the middle of the wall. Head straight up and mantle out. Classic

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

Start route directly under the one and only bolt on very small crimps. Extremely thin crimping up blank face. Finishes on small ledge with DBB.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

Good compression boulder problem then glory to the chains!

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

The holds bite. A crimper problem to an easy finish up the slab. Quite good.

Start on good undercling, straight up and mantle. The first ascent of this problem was done by Mr Rick White in the mid 1970s. Respect!

Start on the cobble under the roof. After a dynamic RH move from the crimp rail to a good hold on the lip, smack your LH up to the sloper. A difficult mantle makes the send feel hard-earned yet satisfying. Aptly named for the sharpness of the holds.

Sit start on sloper, throw to right pinch, delicate foot then hump to lip.

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

Start 2m R of 'Brisbane Bitter', 1m L of 'Chip-a-Holdaway'. Marked "FX".

Solo up drillhole to very high RB. Up face past FH and RB, then pass the dyno crux to clip the final RB. Slightly R to DBB shared with 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

Eight Minute Abs from the batman start. Mostly jugs with a bit of spice at the end.

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

Start up the slab. Unique holds and fun compression climbing see you to and through the corner. The original ending saw you clipping the chains from devious crimpers!

For a nicer finish - clip the anchors and then continue traversing right and up to finish at the French Connection anchors.

Start this crag classic, on the left side of the big tree- matched on the predominate jug. Traverse the big bulge to a powerful, morpho slap. Finish up and left.

1. 20m (22) Great rock, never too hard, just hold on. Just right of Morning of the Earth, high first bolt. Slick, Arapiles-style face climbing.

2. 15m (25) Straight up from belay passing FH onto large ledge. Clip FH on hanging wall and swing your way up this (two more FHs). Gain finger-sized crack (trad) that sends you left into the 'Bell cave' belay. The hard section is short and steep. Powerful moves sees you into one of Tibro's most private areas. Watch your back.

Decent: 30m abseil or two shorter ones back to the ground.

Start 2m L of 'Gigolo'.

One of the hardest climbs at KP, though it's very cruxy. Follow the line of 3 RBs. Up the blunt arete to the ledge and anchors.

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap anchor. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

Do Caught by the Fuzz and keep going over the roof above the anchor. Finish at the niche just under Kissing the Lip.

Start in the little cave in front of the tree. Boulder up to stance below technical face, grapple and crank your way up before a punchy throw gets you to a welcome rest at ⅔ height. Spicy boulder to finish at the top of the wall.

First 5 bolts of SNP, then logically R into the business section of Nitro. Hard crimpy V5 boulder problem into grade 24 climbing.

Linkup. Avoids solo start to 'XXXX'. Climb to 2nd bolt on 'Chip-a-Holdaway' then step L to original 'XXXX' line.

Climbs through the airy featured roof into the mind boggling slab overhang corner. A 60m rope will get you back to the ground.

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.

Climb up Blood, Sweat and Tears until the tree. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Excellent climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

Originally given 26 due to the direct start, however the description above outlines the variation which all (or at least most?) repeats have since utilised. Consensus has settled at 25 for this somewhat pacified version of the line.

Climb Dave until you're at the double UBs above the diving board. Continue directly out the roof for some of the steepest climbing and THE biggest, craziest holds at Coolum. Finish at 'CFT''s anchor.

Shares first 3 bolts of Korova then up the bulging face right of the corner past another 4 bolts. Left of the block at the top, compressing past the final bolt, to the anchors of Toils.

Climb this as one pitch from the ground. Climb FIHP, extending the last clip, and climb directly up the wall above past 5 RBs to wild conclusion which resembles mantling the end of a diving board.

Sit start with fingery holds and power up to a jug, before a quest from left to right on an array of classy holds. Top out the same as “Dirty Action” on the tallest part of the Boulder. This is a classic for the grade, on the Granite Belt.

4m L of LF past the amazing pockets.

Batman start to the anchors of Sideways Rain then head left clipping the last two bolts of Bring Back the Kneebar before continuing straight-up for another 5 bolts to the anchor.

A very strenuous outing and an excellent section of flared hand jamming. The start has two options, both hard. You can start up CF for a few moves and then traverse in - possibly easier but less well protected. The direct start up the seam is nails but has good gear. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the tree on the ledge. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route by the direct.

Instead of starting outside the cave as for Bane (full strength), sit start inside with the low LH sidepull undercling, a RH on the good chalky rail, and a heel hook above your head. Pull on and make some powerful moves finishing as for the full strength.

Up 'The French Connection' but head left after the shield crux to the 'Terminus of Desire' anchors for an easier finish. This was the original finish for 'The French Connection'.

Start on right, finish up #4.

Accessed by climbing Are We Dancer. Climb the smooth marble, orange wall and head into the steep black corner. Steep and adventurous with excellent movement. A must do!

Sit start underneath the right side of the cave (looking from the outside of the cave). Pull on with a cool little ironstone crimp LH and a RH sloper rail. Do some powerful moves up into the steep tube, finishing on the central juggy flake, inside the cave. The rock on the back of the cave is all out, on the ground. Think about bridging across.

Easy to find; it’s the biggest roof on the mountain. Much less intimidating than it looks from below. Start 6m L of Dontworry.com at the tree. Prepare yourself for some adventure-sport climbing! Take the time to get the rigging right for this one or you won’t be able to clip the anchor due to drag. Doable with a single rope if you use LOTS of long slings. Easy ramble to the roof. Punch the juggy roof, turn the lip and if you’ve done everything right you’ll be able to pull rope for the anchor clip Impossible to clean from the anchor, so back-jump the roof and lower-off. Rebolted Dec 2013.

Stand start to the left of the crack/runnel feature, with the RH in a shallow pocket and the LH in a good slot. Move up the blunt arête/slab with slopey feet and hands, and balancy yet athletic movement. Avoids all of the holds to the right of the crack, including the blocky pedestal at the start and footholds.

Stand start up the cool pockets with a HARD committing mantle.

An extension to Gravel Pit, keep climbing as to top out on A Mystery Unravel It, just before the lip travers right finish on the big jug

Oliver Rickford Kieran Pates

Extension to Fairy Dust. From anchor move up and L through steep roof to CW anchor.

A short, exposed, burly route on quality rock. Starts from the cave belay atop the second pitch of Trojan and the top of Four Seasons. Should give you grief. Slide out right of the cave (two FH's) to exposed bolted arête. Up to powerful under-clinging and lay backing in a steep, spectacular position. Lower-off.

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

The classic of this wall begins at the top of Sundae Slab DBB. From the ‘Cream ledge’ climb the line of hangers just right of the large black & orange streak up the centre of IceCream wall. Great sustained climbing on solid, marbly rock. The last boulder problem is cryptic and of very high quality- so leave some gas in the tank!

Climb Gravel Pit, then climb directly left into Jabbas jug. Much better movement than Star Jug Destroyer.

Climb QR then instead of heading right and up the corner, go straight up through the roof and overlap. Pumpy moves lead to a glorious throw to the top. A harder, better and more sustained finish to QR.

Super classic sit-start to “Bear Huggies” and very pleasant for the grade. A Harvey's Marbles must do!

Climb HF but continue left into WOC and finish at anchor.

A short but burly sequence up the bulge. Start in a sit with the crimp rail.

Oliver Rickford Jsbc

Start 2 metres right of Little Wednesday. A few compression moves lead to a steep rib. Finish as LW.

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

Traverse L to R starting at Spork layaway and traversing all the way to Funk arete to top out. This traverse can also be done R to L and is slightly harder. "There and Back Again" begins below Funk Arete, does the R-L traverse to the Spork layaway, then returns L-R all the way back again to finish up Funk Arete. V8/grade 29 (maybe harder with the broken hold). With 30 odd moves more of a route than a boulder problem!

Sit Start on undercling pocket with R hand and crimp with L. Push heels in and pull in and up on undercling for crimp with L. Pocket and rail are out! crimp your way up. Brad

Directly up from belay passing shared bolt, then step R onto ledge. Two close bolts, then into the biggest corner on the wall. Up, then quaker flake laybacks up the steep wall. Fingery crux caps things off.

A delicate, bouldery crux down low, leads into great technical climbing joining into Fingertips and Mountain tops (skip the double bolt hangers on the left- and put a long draw on the 6th). Climb this all the way to the anchor.

Jimmy Blackhall

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

Excellent thin wall with the crux at the top. Wicked from start to finish. Scramble up ramp rising up on L, which is about 10m R of JB, to big ledge with trees; this is is the base of the route.

Can be done with or without bridging at the start. The left wall is used a few times to bridge in the lower half of the route. Climb up the sustained wall just R of the chimney Eridanus passing six FH's. Crux is near the top.

In the steep grotto on the right side of the cave. Start way at the back, grunt thru the roof, and traverse the left wall to shared anchors with TVM. Belay bolt on wall adjacent slab.

Start at the low LHS on good holds, and follow the weakness traversing diagonally right on strong sloped holds, find knee bar rest. Push through matching undercling into sharp quartz rock with long moves, keeping feet on soild rock, hug the last big blocks being cautious of the last one. rock over mantle. 8m boulder Video is on the net, v4 holds gets a v5 as conditions are rarely bomber this close to the coast. There are 3 alternate finishes all of them are quality and stay at v5.

Around the corner from Transcontinental. A rising line trending up left to a high crux with crescendoing funky moves and a steep finish.

Stay hungry. Tweener between Toils and You Only Hide. Shares a couple of holds but climbs virtually independent. Tricksy and sustained.

Kieran Pates

Start: 4m R of Hungry Beast at bolt on rope traverse.

Up orange stone to rooflet and wonder jug. Turn the roof (crux) to huge undercling flake, then final headwall.

Sit start on sloper/pinch, L up to sloper and continue on up. Top out any way you like.This is an eliminate which does not use the big flake/slopey jug hold on the right. Everything else is in

Link up. Climb Acid to it's second last bolt, then head straight up through the corner feature that is the last section of BFI, passing a FH to final mantle. Avoids the cruxes of Acid and BFI. The antithesis to Idaho Sunshine.

Start with L on positive gaston and right on sidepull. Big throw to lip and mantle.

Climbs from seperate anchor on the left side of the upper wall. Exquisite moves up to and through the bulge lead to thought provoking balancy climbing on the upper wall. Amazing anchor position in the eyrie with a great view of Brisbane city to the North.

Sit Start inside on the right side of the cave on two pinches. Pull on- stem out to the large rail (the inside rail on the opposite side of Orient express), then campus and heelhook your way out to “Too softs” mantle. Pull on to the rail for a more natural start and you can have a 4.

Coolum's highest route. Climb CFT and top out on the ledge. You might like to pull and re-drop your rope to lessen drag. Step right, and blast through steep but juggy terrain into the stratosphere. Some longer draws at certain spots will ease your pain. The final bolt (anchor) is just below the top of the cave and currently sports a leaver biner. You can just get down on a 60m from here, but back-jump to clean. (Was closed, but has been rebolted - 2015)

Climb “The Flying Scotsman” (the inside rail opposite side of Orient Express) but instead of finishing on Too Soft, climb Aiokiasof. Campus training helps! FA and beta clip- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyWWiJhWKp8

Sit-Start as for Lazarus but instead of doing Too Soft to finish, now go thunder across Aiokiasof. Finish up the V1 for a top out.

Start as for 'Bufo Marinus' but continue up to the L of the small ledge with anchors, finishing at the 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge instead.

Up Minotaur to cave. Now right out cave and launch rightward along traverse line passing bolts. Trend up (crux) and right across face. Sustained, and interesting climbing the whole way.

Classic arete climbing. For the original version, go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

Continue past anchor and pass three more bolts on headwall above to a chain. Makes an otherwise small route a little longer.