★★ The Cascades of Guinness 18

Climbs the crack in the middle of the wall. Up the blocky cracks to a ledge at 5m. Launch up the thin crack and left to a large ledge at 15m. Traverse right along the ledge for 2m to the continuation of the crack, and onto a large ledge below a large overhanging jammed block. Straight up over the block to glory. Good pro. There is an alternative route from the second ledge - left, and up a corner. This is easier, but less direct, and doesn't affect the route grade.

All climbs are traditional, and bolting is strongly discouraged.