条目 in Waverly Park Bouldering

Waverly Park on the eastern shore of Hobart provides some nice sandstone problems with easy access. The park contains four areas - Rosny Rocks, The Reservoir, Bellerive Boulder, and Clarence Crag.

These nice boulders are one of the best spots for after work bouldering in Hobart. They also stay reasonably warm on winter afternoons, but seep after heavy rain.

Be careful of the rock here after rain - quite a few holds have broken off when they have been damp.

The small boulder to the left of the main face has a couple of short and very easy problems good for absolute beginners or kids.

Please wear appropriate footwear (climbing shoes or soft-soled shoes). Boots and crampons will scratch the rock.

Up left side on the arete of the boulder

Project - start as for Mr Brown and traverse the whole crag rightwards to finish up Scorpions

Sit start and up the left side of the face to slopey top out

Sit Start and up centre of face to nasty slopey top out

Start up Mr Blonde and traverse leftwards to finish up Mr Brown

Start at right side of face, up and slightly left to jug then straight up left side of groove to top out

SDS left of Mr White and take low traverse right on obvious hands and low feet to starting holds of Mr Blonde, up to big jug then top. Can be linked to all variations from jug for and extra grade or so.

Start as for Mr Blonde, but go right up seam then up right side of groove to desperate top out.

Start as for Mr. Blonde but traverse rightwards on thin holds along lip to finish up Reservoir Dogs

Up diagonal crack from awkward sitstart, either on slopers or underclings. Most people use the big flat sloper on Reservoir Dogs as well.

Start as for Nice Guy Eddie, at the start of the crack. Move up to side pull / underclings in crack then straight up using sandy pinch. Up to lip then exit up right.

Sit start on the big flat slope and up. Pretty solid V3,...apparently graded in according to international standards.

Start as for Reservoir Dogs, head right and up to slopey crimp, do reachy move to the right traversing into and finish for Dis-Abeled.

Sit start on the jug, climb straight up, avoiding the left hand diagonal. Can be done as a stand start at about V3.

Sitstart on jug as per dis-abled and head up getting started on left hand pinch and compression moves to slopey sidepulls out right to gain the ear out right before toping out. Compression and awkward feet.

Start as for Scorpions, traverse left and finish up Reservoir Dogs, may be easier in the cold.

Sit start up rib and bridge up left corner to top. Don't reach right. Update: rib damaged by bogan fires, not currently climbable.

Using only the slab, and avoiding the crack and above at all costs.

Climb the slab and corner just to the right of Scorpions

"Just stay in the crack" he says. Crack is all you get, humourously contrived.

Up nose right of Slab/Corner.

Up left side of slab. Don't use crack on the left.

Up the centre of slab.

Up the right side of slab, avoid using right hand lay-aways.

Drive over the Tasman Bridge to Rosny. Just after you pass the shopping centre you will reach a roundabout. Turn left at this and continue past a couple sets of traffic lights, then turn right onto Quarry Road. Drive to the end of this road and park at the gate of Waverly Park. The boulders are visible up the hill on the left. Walk up the track for a few minutes and then turn left onto another track just before a large stump. This track goes pretty well straight to the boulders and takes about 5 minutes. Follow the line of boulders to the left to the obvious overhanging prow on the first topo. There are a few more easy problems on the aretes and slabs up to the left.

Watch the loose chockstone

Up the arete on pockets and rails.

Sit start with thin pockets and delicate feet, work up the arete along the rails on the lip traversing to the right. Avoid the big rail straight up the arete.

Stand start with left in mono, right in two finger pocket and good left foot, one move up to jug then mantle.

Up the the arête, it's a jugfest all the way.

Highball - At the slabby left hand side of the big prow - Up the slab

Highball - Sitstart at right side of overhang, up to slot then straight up the middle of the slab

Highball - Start as for previous, out to chipped jug, then straight up

Highball - The steepest section of the overhang is very hard on small holds. The landing is pretty bad though, so a top rope may be prudent as the hardest moves are at the top. The Jacksons have managed to do this problem without using the chipped holds as 'a worthy statement against the absolutely crap chipping effort'.

The fist/arm crack, inside left from the cave entrance. Have a few mats and spotters.

Start on the jug on the right side of black cave behind the steep prow. Traverse leftward on small pockets

Direct exit straight out of little cave, with dyno

Start on the underclings in the little cave , climb along the rim and out

After gaining the lip head straight up

The vertical wall to the right. The following problems all have lichenous topouts, brush them before climbing. Climb left hand arete

Up face to lichenous mantle

Juggy face to hairy topout

Pockets on face 1m left of crack

Crack

The right hand side of the face - Arete and face

The right hand side of the face - Start at arete and traverse leftwards to finish up V0 arete on the very left.

The right hand side of the face - Up face and capstone

The right hand side of the face - Up face and capstone

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.

Further down to the right are the first rocks you encounter when accessing the area. The landing is pretty bad.

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Sandy jugs opposite Joker's Jackpot.