条目 in The Fairy Garden

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Start off the block as for "Master's Apprentice", technical moves off ledge then a brilliant punchy finish through awesome steep pockets. 23 for tallies.

Start as for Rampage. Head R at first bolt then up through overhanging corner. Rest ledge then trend L for fantastic finish below roof.

Straight up after the 2 bolts to get on the starting ledge of Rampage.

Starts about 5m R of "Master's Apprentice". Perfect little sport route with some lovely pockets. Start off block, up orange wall on good holds to final tricky bulge. It's a nice grade 21 warm-up to 6th bolt. 7 U-bolts.

Stellar, continuous climbing. 2m R of "Coola". Up to overlap and past orange seam. Tough traverse directly L past second last bolt and up to rooflet (final bolt). Onwards to anchors. 60m rope and 12 draws required.

Sustained technical face climbing. Starts just left of cave edge, 2m left of White Gold. Bouldery start then blocky bulges to little right traverse to finish at anchors over last bulge. 9 U-bolts.

The extension to Metalicious via heinous mantle then through the steep roof with intense gastons. An amazing fantasy world hidden above the Fairy Garden canopy.

Funky steep arête on the left edge of the Hyperbowl cave. Finish left past bolt 6 to join Metalicious and lower from that routes anchor. 7 U-bolts.

Gobsmackingly good climbing that links an impressive line up a subtle arête, roof and overhung headwall. Very pumpy. Don't fall off on the last move!

Start as for WG but head straight up and onto the slab. Climb through the unrelenting steepness on pinches and jugs to join the last bolt of AD.

Climb Burnt Ice and go left through roof, get around the lip and finish up the face.

Large open corner on the left of the cave. Start on the raised ground at a corner. Stick clip the first and only bolt to gain large jugs and gear. Move left before extruded block to easy moves and more gear. Straight up, then move R to single rap ring.

Extension to Fairy Dust. From anchor move up and L through steep roof to CW anchor.

Climb Burnt Ice and go way right and finish on Hyperbole

Start up Fairy Dust, then follow arching crack with committing moves on natural pro. Large gear useful. Finish above pod below anchor of Townsvillians.

Steep cave climbing on big holds. Start 2m right of Fairy Dust. Up wall to under roof (knee bar here!) then out left across roof to anchors. Overhangs 5m. 6 U-bolts.

A fun moderate on some big jugs. Climb "Core Whipped" for the first 3 RBs before moving diagonally up R and making a big finally rock over move into the small cave (sneaky big hidden hold in the white stone in the roof).

The direct start of "Townsvillians". Starting just L of "Revenge of the Pixies", head up up shallow corner 4 bolts and into "Townsvillians".

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

Beginning 15m R of FD, climb the steep orange slopers. Finish at anchor below roof.

Start up "Revenge of the Pixies" for two bolts, then break L and up through juggy ever-steepening terrain. An awkward step L under the roof gives the remarkably trad-like finish. Add a star if you like jamming. Overhangs 8m. 10 bolts.

Recommended to discuss access with a local, can be tricky to find the carpark and requires a 4WD to access.

As for Townsvillians, but go straight up, then punch R with mind blowing scoops to a rest below roof. Breach the roof, and desperately undercling your way right to anchor. Overhangs 10m. 13 bolts.

Keep climbing past anchors of Revenge of the Pixies into hole and straight through roof.

Stick clip the high first bolt. Start on the left hand side of first bolt, technical climbing with a cheeky optional kneebar finish.