线路 in Phillip Island

Start on the 1st pinnacle reached on the beach from the carpark at a crack on the side facing Pulpit Rock. The crack.

On the face of Pulpit Rock facing the Pinnacles. 3m L of the steep central chimney at the foot of a diagonal line running up L.

1. 16m 8 (crux) Climb the groove to a small cave on the L wall.

2. 15m Follow the line to the top.

The 1st Ascent of Pulpit Rock and usually the way down as well. A bit of a mountain mans route. Start at the waters edge on the side of Pulpit Rock facing the pinnacles. Move around the water level until an obvious way to the top becomes evident.. If the tides in you will get wet.

Traverse L from the foot of Ulyses and up L arete of the buttress, then the wall above. A dangerous lead.

Serious Climbing and an absorbing lead. Take lots of friends. Start on the Pulpit Rocks on the arete L of the main crack facing landward.

1. 13m Up the horizontals to belay in the strata band.

2. 12m Traverse L on the ledge to the R ward leading crack on the steep smooth wall. Up this to the top.

Average rock. The obvious chimney/groove line and the shortest route from the col between Pulpit Rock and the mainland. The line.

Good Rock by Woolami standards. The R hand arete of Pulpit Rock, R of Gardyrobes. Trick to start, climb the arete, trending R. Mantle on the pig face to finish.

face holds lead to crack (good gear) traverse right at 6m to fist size crack, up a few metres then traverse back left aiming for quartz rock then pull the lip and take care to navigate runout top. good gear for most of the way.

Old fashioned. On Pulpit Rock, just L of the prominent curving chimney facing the carpark. Traverse in an ascending line to the base of the chimney and follow it.

Climbs the 1m wide pillar on the far left when facing the cliffs, with Pulpit rock to the right.

Tallest arret closest to the pinnacles

Its amazing that the summit hasnt fallen off yet. Start on the pinnacle behind and almost directly in line with The Pinnacle Traverse. The pinnacle. Downclimb to get off or abseil.

A great fun excursion across the tops and above the burly seas. Start from the gap between the 1st of the 3 main pinnacles. and the very thin one on the mainland.

1. 21m Up on large holds to a gravely ledge and up the weakness to the top. and ledge on the other side.

2. 18m Descend the short chimney on the face opposite the next pinnacle. Reverse a corner to a tricky reverse mantle and step across the gap to the next pinnacle. Ascend the chimney to the top.

3. 15m Descend the steep crack on the seaward face to the sloping ledge nearest the next pinnacle. Fall/step/pull across the gap and traverse L on the foot ledge and climb the slab around the arete.

4. 15m Reverse pitch 3.

5. Reverese pitch 2.

6. Reverse pitch 1.

Start at the bottom right corner of the "bay" side of the 2nd pinnacle, traverse left and up to ledge at the base of the left-facing corner at the very left side of the pinnacle. Up the corner crack, then carefully top-out, trying not to dislodge too much of the choss. Descent by rappelling off the horn at the top of Nerve Case.

When looking out this is the obvious groove on the L side of the 2nd pinnacle. Reach it at Low tide. Climb it past a runner at 6m, the top is temporary.

Up the "bay" side of the first pinnacle, between two black streaks for the first half. When approaching the top, the route goes over the face, rather than the groove on the right hand size which is significantly easier.

On the ocean side of the first pinnacle. Walk around the back to a platform on the ocean side, and look for three hand-sized protrusions of pink rock sticking out slightly from the otherwise brown granite, about 2.5m up from the platform. The climb starts beneath these. Up a hand crack through a slight bulge (crux), then into a V-shaped groove and thrutch or bridge upwards. Well protected.

A fun scramble, good option for quick access to the Jaws area.

Pull on from the boulder. (If the swell is big your belayer might get wet.) Head straight up the steepest terrain. Great fun.

Good option when the bottom of aztec gold is wet. Start up access direct for 2 metres then traverse right into Aztec gold

Start in the corner of the cave to the left of Jaws. Make your way up sticking to the well protected crack in the corner, tending right until rounding the roof. A few options for the top-out, including some interesting bridging to the left.

Scramble to the next set of pinnacles across from The Pinnacle traverse. Rope down the crack in the overhanging wall to the level of the lowest ledge on the next pinnacle, just above the water. Pendullum onto it. Follow the groove directly up the wall. Return either over the seaward edge of the pinnacle, then up and over the boulder bridge and up to the R wall. If the tide is in however, move down the face between the pinnacles and prussic out.

Go past The Pinnacle Traverse to the next outcrop extending seawards. This route starts on the outcrop closest to the shore at the large corner on the side facing The Pinnacle Traverse. Climb the corner crack for several metres, step R and up the line to a poor belay on the loose arete. Descend via the arete.

800m past The Pinnacles towards The Big Cliff is a major cleft through the cliff. Start the climb on the East side, 1m L of the Cleft. Climb the chimney to a large ledge, traverse 6m R to a large gully which leads to the top.

Good positions above the crashing surf. The climbing however is terrible.Starts at the extreme L edge of the Big Cliff, where a chimney starts 6m up and slants L that can be reached at low tide.

1. 16m 11 Go up easily and enter the chimney, which you follow to a good ledge on the R. There is a Bolt Belay at its far end.

2. 25m 11 Back L and cross the top of the chimney. Diagonally up L to a bolt on the L wall. Bad rock leads to a spectacular stance on the arete.

3. 42m 11 (crux) Climb the face above the ridge (bolt at 3m) Traverse R up to a ramp with a big flake. Up with care and continue along the ridge to the R. Evenually you can move up L to a bolt belay on the L wall.

4. 36m 11 Ignore the the chimney of Nostromo above, instead traverse L over boulders until a short loose chimney gives access to the final slope and bolt belay.

Start at the detached pedestal R of Matelot.

1. 30m Climb the loose crack up the R hand side of the pedestal. Step L then back R to enter the main crack which is followed past a bolt to a steepening. Continue to a tiny stance. Move diagonally R up the weakness to a wide crackon the L of the huge jammed block. There is a stance on top but the anchors are inadequate.

2. 36m Go up moving L as the rock gets worse. Continue on mixed ground to an unstable earth ledge below an obvious shattered crack, and bolt. Continue to a large detached flake. Traverse 3m R and go up on smooth grey rock to finish up the last part of The Ancient Mariner (loose and serious).

One of the better climbs on the cliff. Start at the crack 3m R of Poseidon.

1. 25m Climb the crack/s to the stance on Poseidon.

2. 25m Straight up the crack above to a bolt (where P goes off R) on the 3rd pitch of Nostromo.

3. 35m Go diagonally R up the ramp of loose blocks to a big crack splitting the headwall. Avoid a bolt remaining from the 1st ascent of Poseidon. Finish up the crack.

Everyone has to take it someday. This route introduced wall climbing to the Big Cliff. Starts as for the TAM.

1. 25m 16 (crux) Climb TAM to its 1st bolt belay, swing up L around the roof, then up and slightly R to a small stance.

2. 30m Step up and L to an undercut crack which leads to TAM 2nd bolt belay, Finish up TAM

Steep cracks and flakes 3m L of the original line lead up to the roof.

1. 40m Climb the direct start the up around the roof as for The Plunge. Instead of moving up and slightly R, move up L to the groove. Follow this and the short jam crack with its continuation to the ledge.

2. 25m Straight up

A little loose maybe. Starts 5m R of Poseidon, up an easy wall below a prominent roof in the middle of the cliff.

1. 10m Straight up to a crumblimng stance and a rotting bolt belay below the roof.

2. 21m Move R wards around the roof and into the line above on very poor rock. Up the corner to a wobbly bolt belay.

3. 36m 14 (crux) Continue up the crack, to a crumbling slab. Above the grade eases but the rock gets significantly worse. The cliff degenerates into a dangerous, decay pile of shit with nothing you would tie you hated mother in law to. Enjoy that!!

The original and possibly the easiest route on the wall, poor climbing though. The Chimney crack 3m R of TAM.

1. 18m Easily up the chimney line to a small stance on the L.

2. 21m Traverse L 2m into the 2nd pitch of TAM and climb the corner crack with poor protection to a bolt belay.

3. 36m Traverse back R via a dodgy flake to the original line. Chimney up to make a scary exit L onto grass. Choss to the top.

2a. 21m 12 The only way Continue straight up the main chimney and exit L to the original bolt.

Done during an attempt to continue up the wall. 1a. 20m 16 Climb the wall L of CC to the 1st belay.

The best climb on the cliff but a testing lead. This was originally Aided at 17M5!!! Start below the thin crack 2m R of CC.

1. 18m 17 Climb the difficult crack and up to a stance and poor bolt belay (maybe be better to belay on the first stance of Carious Crack, around to the L)

2. 30m 19 Excellent climbing up the line to a small stance and 31 cam belay.

3. 30m Move slightly R then up loose ground. Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined.

Surprisingly good rock - enjoyable climbing. Start below the main crack up the wall R of Popeye.

1. 43m 16 (crux) Straight up the wall on delicate holdsto the foot of the large crack and the bad bolt on Nostroms 1st pitch. Continue up to a second bolt on the L wall. Climb the huge block to a rotten exit onto the ledge. Traverse a little R to a stance on another large block.

2. 30m Straight up the face on the L, then up onto the grass.

A travers of the cliff. Atnosperic. Star in the gully on the R which seperates the main face from the Candle. Solo the groove on the L to a small stance and bolt belay.

1. 15m 15 (Crux) Down 2m then traverse up to the base of a wide crack and bolt. Move down L onto the obvious traverse line which is thin and sustained but has good rock to the 1st stance of Carious crack.

2. 15, Traverse L into TAM and across the L wall. Continue across the face in a good position to a wide crack and bolt. Move 1m up and continue traversing to the good 2nd stance of Poseidon.

3. 27m Diagonally R wards up the crack which is the 3rd pitch of Poseidon. From the top of the block traverse horizontally L to a zone of collapsing grass and bolt. Claw up the grass to a stance on the R.. Step L and climb a tricky little crack. Exit around the corner and go up to a Piton anchor at the top of the terrace.

4. 28m Climb the awkward crack and gully line above and slightly on the L. Finish up the blocks and grass to a Bolt Belay in a boulder.

Satrts as for Nostromo.

1. 30m Up into the major crack line and follow it to a small stance.

2. Continue up the now shattered line and move slightly L to enter a very chossy zone which leads to the top.

King Neptune is located somewhere in the upper 3/4 of this route. The description is very vague.As described below there is a direct line all the way up the R side of the cliff. Start at the R hand edge of the Big Cliff. This is the R most of 3 crack lines right of Barnacle Bill.

1. 18m 17 (crux) The crack through the buldge and past a bolt at the start of Nostromo.

2. 35m The major crack moving R past a large jammed block to the ledge. Follow the think crack up the short wall to some shaky bollards.

3. 15m The unstable rubbish above.

Scramble up the gully R of the main cliff and traverse onto the slender buttress above and to its R. Climb the R hand arete of the face past an ancient bolt (ancient in 1974!!!!) to the ledge. Finish up the loose and unprotected step.

A neglected line. Corner on the L of the Candle buttress.

Goes where Pirate Pete should've gone. Star as for PP.

1. 25m Go up to the Bolt on PP, and up the middle of the slab (piton) to the earthy ledge below the steep wall (piton). Move R to belay in PP.

2. 30m Traverse back L to the 1st weakness. Superb climbing leads up the slab and corner sysystem., veering R to bushes etc.

3. Up the bushes, loose rock and earth.

Originally graded 16M1. Starts up the slab on te R side of the cove.

1. 18m Crux. Up the middle of the slab to a bolt at about 12m. Go R from this to a very shallow gully. Move up this a little (On the FFA the slab was climbed direct above the bolt).

2. 30m Follow the line.

3. 15m Finish up extremely chossy groove line.

More like mountaineering. At the top of the obvious slabs to the R of PP.

1. 35m Up the slab, continue up and L to overlook the PP gully. Go up to a sloping stance and piton belay.

2. 55m Up R wards onto the crest of the slab and past 2 pitons. Shitty rock gives way to even shittier terrain and rock well below the top.

Rarely repeated but worth doing. Starts on the ooposite side of the cove to Pirate Pete. Down towards the waters edge on the main face is an inset wall that rises steeply into the overhangs. L of this is a corner crack (Terra Firma), 7m further L is a crack, pretty much in the water.

1. 16m The crack for 5m, traverse down L until about 2m above the water. Left again, down around the corner low down to a ledge with 3 bollards.

2. 25m (Crux) Straight up to the bulge, up a couple of metres, then traverse L to a distinct crack on the outside of the a corner. The crack then step L above the overhang to a stance.

3. 12m Up into the grass.

Very loose, sand bag. Satrts just L of STB. There is a line and slight buttress below the highest part of the cliff.

1. 35m The L until forced L to the next line below the bulge. Up to a semi hanging stance 10m above the bulge.

2. 45m Up the L crack to solid earth.

The thin crack and wall about 15m R of TF. Loose all the way to the ledge.

Charlie nearly decked on this on the FA. Take cams. R of ROA is a steep crack. Up the crack and step L into another corner line. Head for a prominent jug, this may break lol. Continue up the line to the ledge. Belay as for ROA.

Note both ROA and IHSOT finish at a ledge and dont go to the top. Death is less likely this wall. Getting off the ledge is another matter all together ha ha FA parties down climbed ROA

An excellent climb on some of the best rock in the region. Up the R leaning groove 2m R of IHSOT. Abseil from a bolt belay part way up the cliff.

Worthwhile. Follow the dyke of white rock until it runs out at 25m. Step L and finish up the arete to the top of the ridge and pinnacle.

Starts on the distinctive slab L of Red Rock. Climb the R side of the slab to the ridge, which is followed. Move L around the squat pinnacle. Climb over the ridge to the Balcony Slab and finish up the loose rock above. n

Adequately protected and enjoyable. Start in the middle of the slab.

About 60m to the west is a Pyramid shaped rock that is accessible at low tide. Hop accross the boulders to the north facing wall. Scramble down the back (ocean side) and traverse either way to get off. From the belay seat just above the water line head up thew wall on flakes until an obvious R leading black crack is reached at about 10m. Follow this to the top.

The top wide crack opposite 'Balcony slab'[12852439] , unusual climbing. Can be done in two pitches, belay where the crack round the arête. Rap off horn at the top.

Short but enjoyable. Walk around the coast past Red Rock summit and the anvigation light. A few hundred metres past the light, a rock ridge leads down to the point as the coast turns back towards San Remo. There is an attractive red buttress on the side facing the light. A V crack starts at the waters edge (below it at high tide) Follow this line to the top of the ridge.

Attractive jamming. Start just R of Wet Dreams. Climb the crack R wards to a ledge. Jam the crack above and finish up the ridge.