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条目 in Lysterfield Boulders

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Lysterfield Boulders

Scattered granite boulders through extensive bushland east of Melbourne.

Trig Point Boulders

Bouldering on top of Trig Hill.

Trig Point Boulders
V0 Taika

Slabby flakey fingery long left edge of boulder above MP boulder.

V0 Foolish slap

On the same boulder as Taika, crimp left, slopey crimp right, one move to lip

V1 sad sit

awkwardly sit start holding crimp in scoop make a few moves before fun mantel

V4 Crack the Egg

On the front side of the boulder as Moaw, start left hand low on the good arete and right hand undercling, compression moves up and climb straight up the arete no escaping left or right

V0 Maow

Short left arete on right of small cracked alcove at the back of LO boulder.

The Squeeze

In the small cracked alcove behind the LO boulder from a sit start climb the prominent crack without recourse to side walls. Tricky.

Jake

Short slab to mantel on the back side of the LO boulder.

V5 Queerie the quarry

sit start on lowest good flat rail traverse right around the corner then crux to gain the arate follow to the top.

a great elminate is to not use the lower block on the right after traversing which makes it more like v6

V0 Finished Crack

On the north side of the LO boulder is a classic undercut hand jam crack. Climb it.

V5 Shopping at Cole's

Start with both hands in the little ledge on the right and with the feet on the right, join and traverse through the horizontal crack into the vertical crack and finish up. Adds an exciting and harder section to an already cool and softer problem.

V0 Boneseed

The left arete of the subsidiary boulder to the left of Finished Crack. Start at the large undercut flake and head straight up via smears and crimps.

Sore Fingerpress

Lysterfield Park is a BOULDERING ONLY area. Please refrain from bolting any routes. All longer routes and highballs can be top-roped without fixed anchors. This park is also shared among bike riders, walkers, and other user groups. Please show respect by giving way to bike riders and keeping your items out of their way.

Keep to designated tracks. All plants, animals, other natural features, and cultural sites are protected and must NOT be disturbed or removed. There is no rubbish collection inside the park, please take all rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal, even if it may not be yours.

No dogs or pets are permitted in the park. Feeding wildlife is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply. Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and keep noise to a minimum.

20 Tipping Point

Best climb here abouts on the north face of the MP boulder. Layback or jam the left side of the large flake ( the right side is fun too) leaning against the best looking boulder for miles around until perched on top. Lean out right and somehow gain the thin crack that splits the big boulder, commit to moving irreversibly right and scuttle to the top. Brilliant! Wires protect if you can place them! Or go ahead, pile up the mats and highball it. Yikes! JUST DON'T ANONYMOUSLY BOLT IT PLEASE.

Camp Flakebottom

The starting crack of Tipping Point is followed by a step onto the slab above and a scamper to the top. Don't slip!

Blackberry Scoop

On the east side of the MP boulder climb the scoop that leads diagonally up from right to left above the bramble bed.

McGee

Straight pull up the middle of the short boulder behind and uphill from the MP boulder descent.

V0+ The Shipping Forecast

A highly featured solitary boulder to the left of the Valley View track used to access the Rock Garden and Trig Boulders. It is not around the Trig Boulders.

A sit start left to right traverse block. "Rising Slowly". Mantle over the lip.

V2/3 Nightlights

Directly to the right of the down climb rock on the south-east side of the MP boulder. Grab onto the crimps that feel most reasonable and go directly up. Use blackberry scoop jug to top out. No using the down climb rock.

The Stonemasons Quarry

Small Quarry down the Stonemasons track.

The Stonemasons Quarry
Stonemason's Arete

The barely worth the walk square arete in the little quarry down the Stonemason's Track.

Rock Garden Boulders

Probably the easiest and best of the accessible areas.

Rock Garden Boulders
V3 Covid Crack

Left end of the upper tier at the Rock Garden - Sit start with both hands on excellent but sharp pinch.

V3 Covid Mantle

Stand-start from the pinch and mantel.

Wild Strawberry

Stand start from the left hand side pull. Straight up to the sloping rail.

V5 Lysterine

The arete on the L at the middle of the upper tier. Sit start on the flat big hold on the L and low R crimp. Up and R to finish as for Lystie Slip.

Note: flat hold on the left has broken off. Re-established with two hands on low crimp. Punch for the jug on the arete before continuing with the original climb. Hard V5.

Lysterine Direct

Same start but go straight up.

Note: critical flat hold has broken off. Likely to go without it but hard. SDS with two hands on crimp heading directly up without using obvious holds on right (i.e., holds on Lysterine). V6-8?

V0 Lystie Slip

Crouch start within the indentation, traversing outward to the slab, using friction-dependent moves to the top out.

V2 Gully Slab

Right wall of mini gully directly opposite Lysterine. Stand-start with right hand on a crimpy slot and head up.

V3 Dreaming of Drop Knees

Deceptively difficult. Stand-start on left hand undercling + right hand good side pull. Head directly up using crimps onto a sloping mantel without escaping to the right at the top.

V2 Flakes Away

Stand start on flakes immediately right of the wide crack in the middle of the upper tier.

V4 Sanitiser

Line up the middle of the right face of the upper tier - scrapes the germs off your hands and the skin if you fall - hence the name.

Stand start with left hand on sloping dish and right hand on sharp crimp. Hard for the grade.

Open project

Shares start hold with Sanitizer. Stand-start with left hand on sharp 3-finger crimp and right hand on anything. Establish high foot on wall and punch up.

Possibly been done before but grade not known.

V1 Off Track

Standing start blunt right double arete.

Left hand low sidepull (fragile) and right hand palming the arete. Straight up. Note the detached blocky footer flake down to the right and good pocket around right on Back Track are off route.

V0- Back Track

Standing start. Same first move as Off Track, but avoids the harder finish by traversing around right onto the slab with great pockets. Finish either going immediately up or traverse a move or two further right then up before the rock step. Blocky detached footer is in on this one.

V1 RG1

SDS added 18/10/21. A short beginner line. Start on two left crimps and make a powerful move to poor holds on the right before moving into the original climb.

Originally done as a stand-start at about V0. Start with open hands, and left foot on the decent edge. Palm your way up to the good lip.

V1 RG2

A short line that heads directly up the left side of the protruding block on slopers. Stand-start and mantel.

Might creep to V2 on repeat?

V1 RG3

A slightly harder variant. Stand-start with right hand on triangular crimp and left hand on any of the slopers. Mantel to the right of the featured block on few holds, just palms.

V3 RG4

A one-move wonder which involves hard crimping. SDS with left hand on crimp in the middle of the face and right hand on low crimp in the diagonal. Pull on difficulty but mantel easily. No crouch starting.

V0 Careck

Found just above the slab that forms the lower tier slabs, is a slot. This is the R arete of that abyss from a sit-start. Avoid leaning back on the opposing wall. Very cramped.

V0 The Ramp

Left end of the easy slab in the lower tier. Series of decent hold running up left.

V0+ Send It

Careful. MTB ride down this slab. Dont get run over by a mad Mountain Biker. Stand-start and up by any means.

V0 Ride It

They ride down this too. Stand-start and up.

V1 The Garden

Named for the flake with the greenery constantly growing out of it. Stand-start on crimps before heading up.

V4 Mantle No More

A few metres left of the mantle at the awkward start and long slab. Grade is partially for the precarious nature of the top.

V3 The Mantel

The obvious overhead mantel and high slab above. One move and then slab.

V5 Apple Crumble

Hard start and sketchy finish on a high slab with disappearing holds enjoy.

V0 Two Windows

Directly downhill below The Mantel. SDS with hands on flat edges. Up and over.

V2 Shed a Tear for the Palm

Next to Ride It, Start on left sloper under the flake, left hand on the close sidepull, move to the left and mantel.

The Hidden Quarry

A small quarry down Valley View Track on the right-hand side of the track.

The Hidden Quarry
V2 Seams Possible?

Same Start as Miner's wall but goes straight up the slab, don't be tempted to go right and use the big jug on Miner's wall.

V1 Miner's Wall

Obvious slab on left side of the quarry. Scramble start, move right then left before topping out on a jug. Precarious fall.

V4 Navigating the Prow

Sit start on two jug crimps, traverse left using the slopey arete. Mantle at the rock that is sticking out over the face. Finish sitting on the slab.

V0 Slap Happy

Behind and left of Slappin Wedges is another diminutive boulder.Happy Slappy layback, from a sit start, up the narrow left side of the nice arete that faces the track.

V1 Hidden Agenda

Almost Slap Happy but lichenous crimp up and left after same sit start.

V0- Crazy Kangaroo

Start with left hand on the arete at the far left of the boulder, right hand in the horizontal finger crack. Traverse right, following the horizontal finger crack all the way to the lower block with your hands and feet smearing on lower footholds. Fun!

V1 Rhino Rump

Sit down start. Sart left hand in dish near the ground, right hand on good edge. Move into the rhino tail then top out.

V0+ Rhino Stomp

No hands and walk your way up. Fun

V0+ Slappin Wedges

Start on the good rail with right hand, left just below the long lichen strip, couple slap moves on the arete and mantel. Mantel left for easier ascent, right is a little trickier

V1 Rat Hang

Absolute classic. Start on bottom right of good ledge and finish match on the scoop under the rock. Most fun route in the world perhaps.

V2/3 Becoming of Mason

SDS left hand on the lowest point of the arète, right hand on the obvious block, step around the arete onto good feet and move right to topout. (the triangular block on the bottom is out and anything above the grassy block to the left of the arète is out, don't step on the lawn)

V2 Easter Island

On the right side of the Quarry when you enter. Hard sit start on slopey rail, move through slotted jugs to finish matched on sloper. The block to the left of the start rail is eliminated.

Showing all 63 条目.

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