攀登 in North West as Hang dog

TRS session

Things that this route hurt:

*My fingers

*My toes

*My right shoulder

*My feelings

Super cool though, did all the moves, sorted out the gear though I have no clue how you'd place the crux nut. Did it clean from the bottom of the crux to the end a few times. Keeeeeeeeeen.

Third session and 4th solid red point attempt - still fell off on the final hold. Really heartbreaking but felt so much better than last time due to the cold. Found a better finish beta, next time its definitely going!

Pleased to figure out all the moves on the first go. Defs hard for the grade (at least by I forgot standards) but a stella climb

Punted. Past the hard stuff at the bottom just before the big jug rest 😴 last day so until next time. Cool wall !

Rope got stuck in crack! Then fell

Great route. Went from easy to not so easy real quick. One of the few climbs at this crag that doesn’t feel soft. I think I can get it next time, the overhang sequence doesn’t leave much room for error or deliberation but isn’t anything too crazy.

First half is great sustained climbing, eases off towards the end. Made all the moves but too pumped after crux.

After a tiring day on serp I came back the next day and had a single send attempt on the route that destroyed my ankle 9 months prior. Felt nice going through the move that exploded my ankle but started to get very pumped. Spent what felt like a lifetime shaking off on the huge jug but couldn’t get anything back due to poor endurance. Peeled off at crux. I’ll be back for u sidewinder 😤

Logistically hard, physically hard and mentally hard. Don’t think I’ll get back on this till I have a couple 28’s under my belt haha

Definitely feels sandbagged but what a beautiful climb with lovely finger pockets. Sustained all the way. Gonna try jumping on it every time I'm at Golden Fleece.

Climbed the 21 part of the route up to the first chains.

Cool but sequencey crux over the buldge

Pretty cool moves up to a stopper section with no much holds. I took a nice fall after I finally pulled through the cruxy bit and ended up wrong handed and unable to clip. I would suggest a grade 25 for this one.

Some really great moves on this route...until...you get to the very techy/slab section near the top and it feels like a total sandbag! Definitely one to come back for.

A final day of the trip hail mary burn - got shutdown just before the span move but it felt close! until next trip. big ups to Marc for coming out for the quick early morning sesh to try and get it done! two hangs but could get it done to one if not none!

Simply mega. Funky positions up the corner, into a desperate traverse that keeps the heat up right to the end. Props to Riles for the bold lead

Incredible moves, skirted around the crux. Dynoing to the pinch was mega!

trangdog

hahahahahahahahahah

Pumpy! Avoided the foot slip, but fell off the final traverse. Massive smile on my face by the finish.

EDIT: DO NOT TOUCH THE SANDY BLOBBY THING. I stroked it mid send and it rained sand in my face and I got the curse of the pink eye. Caught me lackin.

oooo a wee bit tricky!

Following Marc's epic ground up attempt, I thought his beta would help the flash attempt. However I dropped it yet again, atrociously pumped at the crux after only 5ish metres of climbing

thought i kinda knew what to place but kinda fluffed around a bit much. more of a gear and beta scoping sesh. refined the rack and figured out double ropes (climbing on both ends of one rope) is the go!

No wonder the grading is all over the place. This climb is super height dependent. If you can grab the first hold with only two stacked blocks at the most, the climb will be mostly fine. If you need three stacked blocks, it's going to feel waaaay harder. I needed three lol. The crux isn't the hole, it's grabbing the pinch a bolt beneath it, and then being able to use it to hop to the crimp rail above it. I could barely reach the pinch even with an unnaturally high feeling right foot, and then I was completely starfished out. Maybe a dyno to the crimp to skip the pinch?

woah this thing is ON from the word go - i was not at all ready, but hung on for a ridiculously long time placing marginal gear. thats was a win i suppose?

Very promising session. Shouldn’t take very long when I get back to it in 2 months heheh

Didn’t have time for a second shot. Amazing climbing, will be back

Slipped out of the offwidth chimney, decked on the ledge below, bounced the back of my helmet-less head off the opposing wall. It was a great time. I had to take my helmet off because I literally couldn't fit my fat head through the chimney with the helmet on.

Mistake #1: putting a quickdraw on the #5 C4 I had in the roof. Go direct and make sure your belayer has you on a tight leash.

Mistake #2: not taking off the helmet before trying to squeeze my melon through the chimney. Had to awkwardly take it off while fighting for my life.

Mistake #3: not having a #3 C4 ready to place after getting my head through.

What kind of sadist grades this as an 18 by the way?