条目 in South Coast

Climbing in Albany is an experience every climber dreams of. Defined by its beautiful scenery, bullet hard rock, cracks, slabs and face climbing, trad and sport, it has everything that sea cliff can provide. And, you usually have this serenity all to your self.

Granite boulders in the middle of town. Finger shredding crystals, highballs and the odd sandbag.. What's not to like?

A definitive one move wonder. Launch to the pockets from crimps.

Start as for The Black Dog, but from the pockets traverse right past the tree then top out through the bulge.

Sit start with jugs. Jam a left heel. Gross moves around the bulge with sharp crystals to enter the stand starts...

Avoids the fun part of Doggie Style but has the same slightly desperate finish.

The descent route off the main boulder.. A bit awkward.

Climb the arete and left face. A tricky start leads to great climbing and a slightly daunting top-out.

Layback and jam the superb crack..

Start at the thin crack and traverse rightwards to finish at Mongrel. Great slab climbing on sharp holds with a sting in the tail.

Desperate climbing up the very thin crack. Good luck! (Can be top-roped, bring a couple of bolt plates)

Slab slab slab

Thin slab climbing just right of the runnel starting about halfway along the traverse.. Highball.

Start just right of the crack. Up the face then step left and finish up Roadkill.

The thin crack.

Stand start the face and up avoiding the aretes. Dont fall onto the road and get squashed.

Very nice slab climbing.

More thin slab climbing..

Slightly contrived, try not to use the holds on the previous route..

Climb the arete and left face.

A bit steep, a bit flared and a bit sharp. You'll love it!

Easy crack, highball.

Difficult moves off the deck then sustained climbing up the runnel. Has been top roped.

The thin crack. Difficult and high. A good one to top rope.

Albany’s only bouldering gym. Nice space with regular setting and weekly social nights, with a really good community of climbers. It’s apart of Albany Indoor Adventures.

Mostly featureless and coarse granite eggs with a few gems scattered throughout.

Easy access boulders in town with a few fun easy ones

Stand start.

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

A short walk from the summit car park into the bush takes you to this lovely little boulder cluster. Initially found by Albanys Lord Jim, the first problems were born after an afternoon of scrubbing off lichen to reveal actual holds underneath. Home to some interesting slabs and fun bits of steepness.

Sit start at the base of the obvious overhanging prow. Slap up to glory and an easy top out. Short and sweet - an instant classic!

Sit start with the obvious fins at the base of the arete. Up and rightish with the arete and holds in the overhang. Avoid dabbing the tree on the topout! Fun moves and a bit of tension.

Stand start on obvious rail jug. Mantle to stand on the rail then a tricky topout!

Rounded arete

Slabby faces mostly but some fun features nonetheless

Park at the Mt Melville look out carpark and head past the lookout tower to the obvious cluster of boulders. Generally sharp but solid rock with some interesting features - some clean cracks and strange aretes. Unfortunately many of the boulders are desperately blank, but it makes those with holds that bit more special. Great access for a quick session after work to shred some skin and rubber.

The high slab underneath the lookout tower. Superb rock. Has a handy belay rail at the top if you feel like toproping the wall. Three routes as listed in the 1978 CAWA guidebook by R Rathbone and M Smith.

Stand start. Up the vague crack on the left.

Stand start. Up the prominent 'nose' to the right of the left. Tend right into the groove.

Stand start. Up the slab to the right of the groove.

Sit start on the right, jam a painful kneebar and head left to topout. Sharp.

Low start matched on the flake. Jam a right heel and make desperate moves to gain the slab. https://youtu.be/40AvCuE1R6c?t=50s

Sit start. Hard moves to gain the lip.

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

Sit start. Traverse right then topout.

Stand start with obvious jug rail and up.

Stand start. Up trending right. https://vimeo.com/126374382

Stand start. Up the prow, avoiding stepping left onto the slab scoop. https://vimeo.com/126374382

Sit start. Up the juggy prow. https://vimeo.com/126374382

Stand start. Up with the arete and left face. Very sharp.

Stand with high rail.

Up the blunt arete. Super sharp.

Has been done. V-dunno because I suck at crack climbing... felt hard for me but probably really easy!

Sit start on obvious flat jug. Up the face with edges. Top needs a clean

Stand start. Up the left side of the slab with edges and crystals

Sit start with good flake, long move to the sloper to topout. Cool feature! https://vimeo.com/126374382

Sit start. Up and left along the dong into an awkward topout. Avoid the boulder to the right.

Named after graffiti that was on the boulder from back in the day.

Stand start, up the obvious crack.

Sit start. Up and left.

Awesome highball boulder on the summit track. Original lines opened in 1986 by legend Pete Lowe. Then in a multi-session assault by local crusher Kym Hartley in 2020, the classic right scoop ('Isolation', V6) was opened.

Stand start with the crimps on the left, long moves up with decent feet. Up the slab next to the path. High and easy. Not so easy to get off...

Stand start. Up the slabbiest section of the boulder. Gets thin up high! https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=90

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

Stand start. Up the highball scoop with good edges and flakes. An all time mega classic on the hill. https://youtu.be/hnhmankwUhs?t=207

Apparently done by Pete Lowe with a rock stack to start (the rock stack has since been cleared away). Can be started by stacking pads to gain the slab. Up the high scoop.

Epic highball! Stand start with edges and up with tricky moves into a heady top section where you still have to keep it together.

Stand start.

Contrived but cool exit along the dive board feature leftwards. But scary.

Stand start with left hand shark tooth and right hand low side pull crimp and good feet. up with positive holds. Fun.

Great boulder housing some classic lines, the most immediately obvious being the tall triangular face from which the boulder gets its name

Glorious easy ramp starting low and finishing up the summit jugs.

Stand start and up the rising twin aretes. A great feature and a good one for the mountaineers.

Sit start on the right with right hand on obvious arete pinch. The original sitter. Adds a couple of harder moves on small holds.

Sit start on the left of the face to gain the prow and top out straight up. Slightly easier than the original sitter.

Sit start on the left of the rail as for 'Bush Tucker Man' (On the juggiest part of the rail). Head left through the bulge with crimp and sloper to top out straight up the flake.

Located on the back of the pinnacle boulder. SDS. A great dyno with few options to start, traverse into the big flake from either the left or the right then do a big move up and left to a good edge.

https://youtu.be/40AvCuE1R6c?t=1m34s

Start on the far right on the slanting flat rail and traverse leftwards along the juggy rail to link into 'Gangajang'. Adds a half or full grade making the crux section surprisingly desperate!

Sit start in the crack. Up the slopey bulges to topout straight up.

Sit start under the mini-roof and straight up.

Sit start the crack.

Be aware of the various restrictions in place in the region, particularly regarding the ACZ and Public Holiday/long WE restrictions at The Gap: https://www.climberswa.asn.au/climb/no-bolting-zones-and-other-restrictions/

Should go.

Stand start. High but quite secure slabbing

Top needs lichen cleaned off. Starts with awesome moves on nice edges.

Sit start on the left if the obvious rail. Traverse the rail then go up the face into the juggy flake.

Sit start on the left of the rail. Take a high traverse using balancy moves to gain the jug. Slightly easier.

Stand start as low as possible on the arete - low slopey left hand crimp and lowest part of right hand sidepull rail. Awesome moves up the arete then escape left to the juggy flake and up into the slab. All time!

Needs a clean. High and proud... one for someone a bit braver! Same start but avoid going left to the jug and instead take a direct line up the arete - adding a sketchy crux getting your feet sorted to navigate the bulge after the first crux.

With a lot more cleaning there is probably a right exit too - but it looks a bit sharp and chossy

Stand start with flat hold on the vague arete. Up and left keeping away from the holds on the right.

Stand start. Up the easy slab with good holds.

Sit start and up with slopey holds.

Looks nails. Needs a bit of a clean

Stand start where you fancy. Up the slab to the obvious juggy pockets. Fun and a bit high.

A bunch of sharp rank problems. Embrace slab climbing and grow old gracefully.

Stand start on crimps. Smear and mantle your way up the arete and onto the slab..

Sit start if you must. Up to the jug then reach out right to a good edge and mantle your arse off.