Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | 攀岩者 | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
星期六 27th 4月 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 ~19 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | |||||
Tried P1 of sizzler and absolutely sizzled in the sun. Eventually used some sport climber beta to overcome the overhang and sweated my way up through the jams. Condiiis!
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17 |
★★ Sap
![]() | 55m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Another awesome hand crack, Wolgan does not disappoint. Just did P1
|
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星期五 26th 4月 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
I led pitch one and how good! Fun stemming and jamming, had to push myself on this one. Ange led P2 which had a cruxy bit at the start and then felt much easier
|
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18 |
★★ Decline and Fall
![]() | 99m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
An awesome finger crack with good feet and face holds. Just did P1
|
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星期四 25th 4月 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
What an awesome crack! Lovely jams and awesome laybacking
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19 ~17 |
★ Agent Orange
![]() | 90m, 3 | |||||
First climb in the Wolgan! Fun going up through the scoops, felt rather easy
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星期六 16th 3月 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 Easy |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
星期五 15th 3月 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★ Sap
![]() | 55m | |||||
星期四 14th 3月 2024 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 ~16 |
★★ Sap
![]() | 55m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期二 13th 6月 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler P1
![]()
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
星期四 16th 3月 2023 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期一 3rd 10月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
So good I forgot to place gear for half the pitch.
Awwweeeesome. Keen to come back for the full route but ran out of day. |
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19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | |||||
Superb. The overhanging changing corners weirdness on pitch 2 is stupidly good. Linked p1 and p2 together.
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星期五 30th 9月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle P1
![]()
1
| 52m | |||||
17 |
★★ Sap
![]()
1
2
3
| 55m | |||||
星期一 27th 6月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期五 17th 6月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 86m | |||||
All the stemming and lots of finger crack.
Linked P1-2 and P3-4. Topped out because I missed the final ring bolts (they're left around an arete and not visible when following the crack). Even though the last 10m is pretty average pro/climbing, just finishing at the bolts seems anti-climactic anyway. Gear: triples to 3 and wires when linking; preserve small cams. |
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19 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
![]()
1
19
30m
| 30m | |||||
Oops. Slipped out of the thin hands above the overhang. Stiff warmup!
Also RIP one of the footholds below the overhang. |
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler (Sizzler P1)
![]()
1
30m
| 30m | |||||
Got some better hand jams at the overhang and then a very high left foot.
The fist jam section felt hard! Some serious exertion between the rest positions on this one - felt a little sick by the end and struggled to even lift the rope to clip the anchors. Cool crack moves throughout - even used hand stacks in the final offwidth. (Maybe questionable RP ethics here: I didn't clean the pieces I fell on and started above the first juggy moves). Gear: crack gets continually wider... singles .3-.75,3x1,3x2,2x3,2x4, bolt plate |
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星期六 11th 6月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
15 17 |
★★ Sap
![]() | 55m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期一 6th 6月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 |
★★★ In the Name of Morality
![]() | 65m | |||||
one of the best lines on Cook Ovens which surprisingly does not get that many ascents.
Definitely can and should be done as a single pitch. First part will consume all your big gear (not bigger than 4) while the second part will go on small cams and medium nuts. on the softer side of 21
70m rope JUST reaches the ground on the stretch on the abseil
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星期六 4th 6月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
21 |
★★★ In the Name of Morality
![]() | 65m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
my favourite in coke ovens
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星期六 21st 5月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Great jam crack! Only had one #4 so bumped it until I could no longer then just ran it out. Pumpy getting through the overhang before being established in the crack
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星期天 8th 5月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★ Planet Waves
![]() | 70m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期三 4th 5月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]()
1
19
52m
2
3
| 52m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期五 15th 4月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus (Cactus P1)
![]()
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
20m
| 86m | |||||
First pitch only, nice chimney moves
|
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14 |
★★ Organ Grinder (Organ Grinder P1)
![]()
1
14
30m
2
| 30m | |||||
First climb at the Wolgan. First pitch only, inside crack still damp.
|
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18 |
★★★ Cactus P1
![]()
1
18
21m
| 21m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Awesome finger crack
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14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
First time climbing on gear, sick!
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星期六 9th 4月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses
![]() | 72m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
3月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Everything feels wild in wolgan, great day
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2月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
26 |
★ Anzac Day
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Didn't know what the route was, Bryden and I chose it for the warm up 🤦🏻♂️. Very bold, escaped to chimney. Heaved on a massive chockstone which snapped in half luckily my back fell against the back of the chimney leaving me with a basketball sized lump of sandstone in my hands which I unceremoniously slam dunked down le chimney before continuing on my way.
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20 |
★★★ Ishtar
![]() | 50m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Started raining 10m off the ground, first lead at wolgan topped out on some very slick water washed sandstone siic
offered to clean on rap but Bryden opted to second in the rain
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星期六 29th 1月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★★ Ishtar
![]() | 50m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Seconded after Evan lead in the rain, with a few slimey issues up top but got it clean. R
Great crack, uncanny holds, excellent
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26 |
★ Anzac Day
![]() | 25m, 5 | ★ 好 | ||||
Bolting style makes for a gripping time! Not too hard up to 4th bolt but I took the bait and entered the chimney thinking it'd aid me stepping back out onto final arete bolt but the thought of wiping out onto the platform below with that final run out had me top out via easy but airy chimney on pretty loose pro. Actually thought this was a mixed route! Should have checked the route before attempting but anyhoo. Would be keen on a clean direct send after a quick inspection of the top section to suss out those smooth holds to minimise a potential deck out on that platform.
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星期五 14th 1月 2022 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]()
1
18
21m
2
18
15m
3
18
30m
4
16
20m
| 86m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Absolutely awesome climb 3rd pitch is the money but 1st and 2nd also great
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15 |
★★ Monkey Business
![]() | 30m | 一般 | ||||
Warm up but pretty average
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16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Best corner crack, laybacking forever. Just sooooooo good. Loads of yellow cams
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19 |
★★★ Sizzler P1
![]()
1
19
30m
| 30m | ★ 好 | ||||
Hard! Just did first pitch. Was super dirty. Getting up the roof was really hard then difficultly let up a tiny bit. Getting to the anchors meant a walk over extremely loose landslide. Rob missed the carrot that protects the scramble while being extremely run out. Don’t miss the carrot!
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星期四 12th 8月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Cactus
![]() | 78m | |||||
Quality outing
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18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
![]() | 90m, 4 | |||||
Was questioning its classic status until we got to the last pitch, unreal
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16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
Absolutely stella
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星期二 22nd 6月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Only the first pitch.
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星期五 4th 6月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
15 |
★ Death-bed Confession
![]()
2
lead by
Bridie Campbell
| 60m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
19 |
★★★ The Knuckle
![]() | 52m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Only had time for the first pitch, but it was great! I can't wait to come back and do the whole thing.
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18 |
★★ Decline and Fall
![]() | 99m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
18 |
★★ Decline and Fall
![]() | 99m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
星期天 23rd 5月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Awesome 1st pitch, rubbish 2nd pitch.
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星期三 19th 5月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
17 |
★★ Sap (Sap P1)
![]()
1
17
55m
| 55m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Just lovely
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14 |
★ Death Bed Confessions (Alt)
![]() | 30m, 8 | 一般 | ||||
Great place for building sand castles
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星期天 16th 5月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
22 |
★ Flame
![]() | 22m | ★ 好 | ||||
Top rope solo with rest at the hanging block. That thing sounds hollow, is a pretty key hold and remains there by the grace of all the saints and spirits you can pray to.
Would be a nice lead if the block was reinforced. |
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16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
Top rope solo lap in approach shoes to get some photos
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星期六 15th 5月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
Still can’t get it clean. Maybe some day.
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16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
星期天 2nd 5月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | |||||
14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | |||||
14 |
★ Sod Direct
![]() | 25m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
![]() | 90m, 4 | |||||
17 |
★★ Sap
![]() | 55m | |||||
星期一 12th 4月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
13 |
The Necromancer Variant Start
![]() | 15m | |||||
18 |
★★ Decline and Fall
![]() | 99m | |||||
17 |
★★ Sap
![]() | 55m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
First pitch only. Awkward start that’s hard to protect. Once gaining the crack the climb is awesome. Take big gear!
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13 |
★ Barrel Organ
![]() | 81m | 一般 | ||||
16 |
★ Grunter
![]() | 51m | |||||
second pitch is very sandy
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19 |
★ Bristling Dogs
![]() | 48m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Ishtar
![]() | 50m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
fell after the crux!
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星期天 11th 4月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期六 10th 4月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
![]()
1
16
25m
2
18
20m
| 45m, 4 | |||||
13 |
★ Barrel Organ
![]()
1
2
3
| 81m | |||||
16 |
★ Grunter Direct Finish
![]() | 25m | |||||
16 |
★ Grunter
![]() | 51m | |||||
Ok
|
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16 |
★ Grunter
![]() | 51m | |||||
Ok
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14 |
★ Sod Direct
![]() | 25m | 一般 | ||||
13 |
★ Barrel Organ
![]() | 81m | ★ 好 | ||||
Led first and last pitch. Erosion at the tree anchor at the top.
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星期二 6th 4月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
14 |
★★ Organ Grinder
![]() | 60m | |||||
15 |
★★ Monkey Business
![]() | 30m | |||||
星期三 10th 3月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
19 |
Gets Better With Traffic
![]() | 25m | 一般 | ||||
Pretty sketchy, the horizontal crack under the roof is super sandy, all the holds after the roof are loose, pull carefully
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星期一 8th 3月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
20 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses
![]() | 72m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
A prolonged team failure. Showed Dick how to pull the overhang, but stopped at the diagonal #3/4 section coz I know I suck at jamming that size and didn't want to be there all day.
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Top roped to the top layback and then decided I didn't wanna do it either and bailed off a carrot to the right. Take a second 4 or a 5 if you're a wimp like us
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16 |
★★★ Mirrorman P1
![]()
1
16
25m
| 25m, 4 | ★ 好 | ||||
Just pitch 1, bit harder than it looks from the ground but fun feature.
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16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
I think it was a great struggle but clean (the whole weekend is a bit of a blur). Dick's beta: fortunately it takes various different sizes! Me: blithely places both #2s down low. Dick's later beta: oh yeah actually by "different sizes" I meant there's one spot for an overcammed #3 somewhere.
I need to get better at eyeballing cracks. Lol.
|
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
I couldn't get over the intial roof. My hands are too fat for a solid jam here, even without gloves. If I had chosen a better route to warm up on first, I would probably have been able to commit to the move.
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18 |
★★★ Sizzler
![]() | 81m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Climbed up on Josie's gear to the wider #3 section. Went through that just fine, went up the ledge, only to find the crack widening further and further. Armed with a single #4, this would require me walking the #4 all the way up while laybacking. Not doing that.
Eventually we bailed off the carrot on the ledge. Meh. A beautiful, beautiful line otherwise - would come back for this.
We should've studied/downloaded this very page from TheCrag before heading down to the Wolgan - literally the last comment says we should take double #4 or a #5 for the wide top... |
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16 |
★★★ Mirrorman (Mirrorman P1)
![]() | 25m, 4 | |||||
Fun pitch, awkward climbing up the ramp and then a largely unprotected offwidth/chimney to the anchor.
Only P1. Note: We rapped off the carrots - You can't rap here unless you've got buddies already at the belay, or you have to leave bolt plates/biners/gear. |
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16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
What an amazing line. This thing eats #2s for breakfast. Found good placements for the occasional #1 and #3 (albeit overcammed). Crack does seem to flare inwards at places, so check your #1 placements. Brought doubles, and still had a #2 left when I reached the anchor - I did run it out a bit. #4 for the top useful, but it's easy terrain.
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18 |
★★★ Mirrorman
![]() | 45m, 4 | 一般 | ||||
We tried to do "one last climb" on Saturday at 6pm. Lead P1 without much issue. The chimney is pretty poorly protected, and falling would lead to serious injury, but the moves are easy enough, so I made it to the anchor without much issue.
On P2, Nat got off route pretty severely and ended up traversing right, when she was about 2m to the right of the p2 anchor, due to tunnel vision caused by how run out she already was and the onset of darkness, with almost no gear to the tree on top of Mazurka. When I started seconding, now in the dark, I was kind of over it at this point and just wanted to get to the tree to bail, so I decided to french free. The first cam I pulled on blew, and I fell about 8m. After getting back up, when I got to the next pro, I saw that after taking that out, I had about 20m of traversing to do on a slopey slab in the dark, with only 2 pieces of gear, which after blowing a cam already, I did not trust anymore. Too afraid to continue on, I regretted my mistakes leading up to this point and spent a good 30min contemplating how to get out of it. There were no extra placements anywhere near me, just a sandy pocket that had the .4 I was stuck at. I ended up cleaning up the sandy pocket, I was stuck at, after which it could take an extra .3. I then had myself lowered on the two cams on tag line and top rope, clipping the carrot of Mirrorman back in as extra safety. Now definitely don't want to make excuses for our poor decision making:
But I feel like this multi would be more classic if P2 had an extra carrot between the prominent pocket that takes a .3 - .4 cam that I bailed on and the anchor. It would still be an excitingly runout pitch even with the extra carrot. More than happy to pay for this bolt and help placing it. |
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星期天 7th 3月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
16 |
★★★ Mirrorman
![]() | 25m, 4 | |||||
The ropes would not pull from the tree no matter what we did. So lead P1 to get back to the top of the pedestal to try and see if it would help to be on higher ground to pull our stuck ropes. It did not. Ascended the rope a second time and left a sling and locker around the tree.
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17 |
Mazurka
![]() | 95m | |||||
OS P1 and second half of P2 (yesterday)
P1 is nuts! Continuous sand rain, foot slips on lichen covered rock and my ass got stuck in the chimney. |
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星期六 6th 3月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
18 |
★★★ Mirrorman (Mirrorman Linkup half of P2 of Mazurka)
![]() | 100m, 4 | |||||
Discovered that it's really easy to get lost on a route with no bolts or crack to show you the way (in addition to the stupidity of not reading the guidebook instructions).
Ironically, climbed up to the DRBB of P2 but was under the impression that the anchors would be near a small tree and consist of three carrots so I took a hard right and traversed across the slab to the offwidth and slim tree on Mazurka (I am very blind this happens all the time). Tree was way too skinny to belay off so climbed up to a higher tree. This produced a massive zig-zag line held together by terrible pro. Marco's write up is a great reference. |
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19 |
★★★ The Knuckle (The Knuckle Linkup P3)
![]()
3
16
| 82m | |||||
Well near slid off the cliff clawing my way up the scree slope to the tree anchor.
Everyones favourite nightmare, falling off after topping out |
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星期六 6th 2月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
14 |
★ Sod Direct
![]() | 25m | |||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
16 |
★★★ The Wars of the Roses (pitch 1)
![]() | 22m | ★★ 很好 | ||||
星期三 3rd 2月 2021 - Wolgan Valley | |||||||
Coke Ovens Cliff | |||||||
23 |
★★ Le Voleur
![]() | 30m | ★★★ 超级经典 | ||||
Awesome hard climbing, perfect rock
|