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The Top Deck

  • 难度体系: AU
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描述

Big orange walls

准入问题 取自Wollongong

Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."

Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”

Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”

Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.

前往

Pass the big roof but stay high and follow the base of the cliff.

行为准则 取自Wollongong

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

  • The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
  • Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
  • No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
  • Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
  • Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
  • Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
  • Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
  • Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
  • Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
  • Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
  • Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
  • Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
  • Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

标签

线路

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Grade 线路

Start at series of flakes and cracks, up and left to the ledge the up arete to top.

首攀: Chris A

Start underneath small cave, traverse left 2m, big move straight up then trend right to the cave (good rest) and straight up to anchors to straight up.

首攀: Chris A

Follow the thin crack system up to a knee bar and take in the view. Proceed to a delicate final crux before the anchor.

After multiple attempts on this, Hunter Cole had a crack and after a courtesy take at the first bolt proceeded to flash the route. I let him name the route as it was only fair.

The route is still awaiting a trad ascent.

Up the orange arete.

首攀: Chris A

Start 2m right of Captain Nemo arete on the great orange rock. Technical and varied. Thin start, move right to closed corner . Up until easier to the anchors.

首攀: Rod Young, 2020

Up the seam to the anchors

首攀: Jesse Windle

Follow the corner crack up and then move left onto the face straight up to the lower offs.

Stuck clip bolt and traverse in from the right on edges. Make your way up the arete. Rest in cave and tickle your way up the finger crack to lower offs.

Up the seam to jugs and the cave then blast up the awesome headwall.

首攀: Chris A

The narrow corner. Up corner, trend up right steeply to ledge then around the roof and head left to the anchors.

首攀: Rod Young, 2020

Head up the corner to the top of the block then up the vague arete to the anchors

首攀: Chris A

Up the orange wall to the roof, out the roof and up headwall to anchors.

Straight up the crack to Lower-offs

首攀: Kezzadawg

Up the crack and up through the suprisingly solid honeycomb rock to anchors at the top of the wall. A great photo op route.

首攀: Jesse Pawlowski, 2020

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