条目 in Nitro Wall

Home to the 'Redline' (V11) - one of Steve Bullen's testpieces of the 90's. A freestanding boulder with some interesting top outs, it faces west and is in the shade 'til about lunchtime. Be warned, some holds have been 'enhanced'.

Detailed access: Follow directions to the west face. Follow the west face cliff trail, past route the very last route volkswagon , keeping going under a massive tree which is lying above the track. Keep going for another 15m and the Nitro Wall boulder will appear on your right.

Some easy warm up's are available on a large block up the hill which have been climbed since the dawn of man. There are a number of select problems on the block which are believed to be new, however.

Sit start on the big jug

Sit start. Trending left up the vague arête

Sit start on the two underclings. Then up through sloppers to a tricky mantle

The namesake Boulder. From the West Face cliff path the Nitro wall is slightly North and lower down the hill.

Start at same holds as 'Nitro Wall Leftside' (V5), then climb left along until you reach happy gas and finish up this.

Sit start on the arete. Up the lip to top out same as the next problem.

Sit start from big hueco/mega pocket, move left and up, top out.

Goes straight up the middle of the overhanging wall and tops out. Tough mantle. Sit start, from big hueco/pocket, move up the face to the lip, mantle and top out. The key is doing a pop move from the pocket/crimp to the side pull and get a toe cam in the big hueco.Spotter advised for topping as a fall from here will see you tumble down the hill.

Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move up via small pocket and crimp to match the lip. Committing move out left and up to mantle.

Potentially already F.Aed in the late 90's

As seen on "Comin At Ya Hyper" - climbing vid of the late 90's. Sit start from LH finger pocket/crimp and RH pocket, move right via small pockets (chipped) up the face/arete until you gain to micro crimps, feet up and funky mantle. Fingers of steel required!

Directly up the hill from the Nitro Boulder.

Unclear why this was bolted (or who) but here it is. Out of the cave, one ring bolt then DBB anchor on top of the block.

Starting on the deep pocket just left of the right-arete, embark on a long traverse through a variety of cool crimps, slots and jugs before topping out with big moves on jugs at the far left end of the bloc. (this can be climbed as a line in its own right, The Altar of Lamentation, v0)

Although this is an obvious problem on an obvious section of rock, no information was recorded. The FA details are lost to the stoneage climbers who never bothered to tell anyone.

The problem follows the righthand side of the arete from a sit start to a highball topout. Sit start with your feet in the large hueco at ground level, hands on the positive edge. Make your way up the righthand side of the arete to the airy scary launch for the lip.

Practising the moves on top rope is possible using the carrots handily placed right on the top.

Dylan Hill

Head up the major descent gully before Nitro Wall area (heading north). At the path at the top of the gully head left for about 15 metres, you should find yourself on top of a wide, orange-streaked bloc. Head around to the left of that bloc to get to the bottom of it.

On the holds right of Sinn Fein

Sit start right of the arete on jug slot and small left-hand crimp. Power through some big moves on crimps trending right before a difficult mantle on slopers and delicate top-out.

Note: the starting left hand crimp has been lost to a fat boulderer. The start must use either the higher better left hand sidepull (easier) or go without a left handhold and use the original right hand (much harder).

fun short little piece with big moves on good holds, located directly behind the upper wall.