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条目 in North Africa

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North Africa

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

V0 Onederland

Start sitting, matched on the low sloping ledge to the left of the prow. Climb up.

V5 Tidal

Start as 'Tsunami' and climb onto the left slab to top out.

V4 Tsunami

Sit-start with left hand low on rail, right in obvious crimp on the face. Slap up and shoot to the right lip.

V5 Resurrection

Squat start in the cave with right hand on a good undercling and left hand with a sidepull around the corner. Emerge from the cave and climb up the face. The stand start goes at around V2.

V2 Resurrection Stand Start

Go in small like cave left of Tsunami. Start standing with your hands on good ledge above head. Sit Start is around V5.

V3 Ride the Wave

Sit start as for Riptide, but follow the lip of the boulder left to the top.

V2 Riptide

Sit start matched on the low sloping triangle. Top out above

V2 Colin's Prow

Climb the blunt prow. A slightly harder extension to this starts on the lip to the right of Riptide

V11 The Boogeyman

At the end of the video the stand of the project is there (the Boogeyman). Left hand on crimp and right hand on right crimp (same hold has la soufriere)

https://www.instagram.com/p/COtwS8IDOSE/?igshid=1b389p12uojcs

V14 Carnage

Start on 'La Soufriere' and traverse on crimps to finish on 'The Boogeyman'.

V11 La Soufriere

On main trail just behind Tsunami in North Africa.

Small crimps move up to arete... see video

https://youtu.be/ORhAK1xYP_k

V6 La Soufriere Stand

Left hand on nasty crimp, right hand on arete and ok crimp. Top out using heel hook or feet on the wall. Grade needs confirmation. Basically 1 hard move. It's the end of the V5 isn't it?

Video for starting holds

https://youtube.com/shorts/HKl136Y32WA?feature=share

V5 Flight of the Majestic Porcupine

Start on a small high crimp where the boulders meet. Climb left through the sloped lip and top out at the apex of the overhang.

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