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Mount Victoria

  • 难度体系: US
  • 攀登: 4
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总结

The long-ridged peak towering above the end of the valley above Lake Louise. Classic alpine routes.

描述

Mount Victoria is one of the classic peaks of the Lake Louise area (and with its position at the head of the valley above the lake, is also one of the most photographed).

Both the north and south summits have classic mountaineering routes up their ridges, and while lacking in hard technical routes they are still sought-after objectives for many Rockies climbers.

准入问题 取自Lake Louise

It's a National park. Be a descent respectful person

前往

Depends on the route. See individual descriptions.

行为准则

This peak is located in a National Park. Endeavour to leave no trace and keep the mountain the way it was when you arrived.

标签

线路

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Grade 线路

A classic! Often referred to as an "sidewalk in the sky" for its relatively low technical difficulty but exposed nature. Don't be fooled by the grade... this is still not an easy objective.

Approach this route via Abbott Pass - either via the Fuhrmann Ledges from Lake Louise, or via Lake Oesa from Lake O'Hara in Yoho. Many parties stay at the hut. See the Alpine Club of Canada website for availability and booking.

Climb the ridge above the hut, staying on the ridgeline where possible and bypassing difficulties on the right (north) side. Continue up rock and scree of dubious quality to a snowy ridge. Follow this to a large dip in the ridge (the Sickle). Once past the Sickle, climb up a short step to regain the ridge. Continue up to the next large rock band and head along it, right of the crest to a weakness to (again) regain the ridge. Continue upwards along easy snow and rock to the summit. Retrace your steps to descend.

首攀: 1897

A long day, with a good variety of terrain to keep you on your toes. Don't be fooled by the low grade... this can still be a serious objective requiring a range of mountaineering skills.

Approach via Lake Louise and the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Just past the teahouse, head up a scree gully and then a well-trodden trail through the brush to a talus field below Mt Collier. Continue up this to the toe of the Victoria glacier.

From the toe of the glacier, travel up the glacier avoiding hazard from the rognon and from the slopes of Collier above. Cross the bergschrund and climb up to the base of the black band below the Victoria-Collier col. Climb this band (very poor, loose rock) to the col. From here, climb the ridge south of the col to the summit. Either tackle the rock difficulties straight on or bypass them on snow/ice on the exposed right side above the imposing North Face. Descend the same route. Rappel anchors may be found at times, but test them thoroughly before trusting them.

首攀: 1900

A very committing and seldom-traveled objective, this traverse covers the entirety of the ~2-3km skyline between the Victoria/Collier col and Abbott Pass. It is most often completed in a north-to-south direction (described here).

Climb the north summit of Mt Victoria via any route (the NE ridge is recommended). Once on the summit, the way ahead becomes clear, over loose, shattered rock and past several sub-summits and gendarmes. Travel along the ridge, bypassing most difficulties on the left (north) side. Rock quality varies from OK to terrible on most sections of the ridge, though it becomes markedly worse once passing the midway point on the subsummit of "Victoria Centre."

Once on the south summit of Mt Victoria, continue along the ridge and down the standard Southeast Ridge to Abbott Pass. Descend from the pass either via Lake Oesa and Lake O'Hara, or along the flanks of Mt Lefroy and down the Fuhrmann Ledges.

WARNING: DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS ROUTE WITHOUT EXPERIENCE AND ABILITY ON CHOSSY ROCKIES LIMESTONE!

首攀: 1909

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