条目 |
---|
The Apron
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Lower Apron
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Lower Apron |
5.10d
Mickey Mouse
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11a
Mighty Mouse
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
★ The Bottom Line
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.8
★★ Rambles
Start at the left side of the lower apron.
Can be linked into just two pitches. |
South Apron
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
South Apron |
5.8
★★★ Diedre
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
The Passing Lane
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
★★★ White Lightning
Guidebook description; “a proud tick by those capable and delivers a good adrenaline rush to all but the most seasoned of slab climbers-legendary friction route”. First 2 pitches of dièdre (trad) before trending right onto open slab for 5 pitches of friction climbing with spaced bolts. Take #1 Camelot for the overlap in .10B pitch. Join final pitch of dièdre (small gear in corner). Tree belay. |
5.9
★★ Sickle
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
★★ Over the Rainbow
Starts to the right of Diedre, from same ledge to Horizontal crag and then follow the three bolts. All anchors are bolted except the third and 6th pitch which end big ledges with plenty of trees to choose from. You might want a couple of middle sized cams but 98% bolted, bolts are close enough to avoid big falls and just before all crux moves. Technically 6 pitches but last one its short and scrambly can be linked with a 60m to the ledge so most parties would do in 5. |
5.9
★ Sparrow
P1: start just right of Diedre and pad up the slab past horizontal cracks, then trend right through rolls to belay at a higher seam. P2: Move up and through a mantle, trend leftwards for easier 5.8 then back right to a large tree island. or trend straight up (10b, FA unknown) P3:move the Belay down rightwards down the treed ramp to a large pine, then continue up the crack above to another tree island. P4: From the treed ledge continue up past 2 bolts to a gear + one bolt anchor. P5: Move left crossing Two Scoops to a corner, follow this for 3m then step left past a bolt, and pad up the slab to the base of a long corner system. P6: continue up the corner system to a belay at |
5.10c
★★ One Scoop with Delicious Dimples
One of the harder, but more interesting slab climbs on the apron. Mostly bolted and likey empty. |
5.10b
★ A Trolls Sonnet
Optional trad gear at overlap. (0.3-0.5BD cams, medium wires) |
5.7
★★ Banana Peel
220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.
|
5.9
★★ Pineapple Peel
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.8
★★ Slab Alley
The first route climbed on the apron. Run out with intriguing rock features known as "The Elephant Steps" |
Central Apron
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Central Apron |
5.10c
The West Coast Trail
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10b
★★ Read Between the Lines
5 pitches, all bolted belay stations. Rappel descent. See quickdraw publications free topos for details.
|
5.9
★★★ Snake
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11b
★ Teetering On The Brink of Madness
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11b
★★★ Unfinished Symphony
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11c
★ Dirty Little White Boys
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.12a
★ Dream On
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11b
★★★ Dream Symphony
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Bloodlust
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10b
★★★ Born Again
The route combines a number of new pitches with old pitches of 'Bloodlust' and 'Bandwagon'.
Gear:
|
5.11c
★★★ Dancing In The Light
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Bandwagon
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10d
★★ Anxiety State
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11d
The Crossing
Nails slab. |
North Apron
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
North Apron |
5.10c
★ Start From Scratch
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
★★★ Long Time No See
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.8
Long Time No See (p8 +p9)
The last two pitches of Long Time no See can be used to climb from the top any North Apron route to above Memorial Ledge. Start at two bolts at the scramble below Memorial, just to the left of Karen's math start. |
5.9
★★ Calculus Crack Direct
Direct start for Calculus Crack so you don't have to start in the trees on the first two pitches of St. vitus Dance. P1: Start up passing a bolt and head toward an obvious left facing crack. Pull into the crack (crux) and continue up insecure moves to you can step right and up a flake. Gear Belay above the flake. P2: Long pitch starting up multiple flakes and continuing on easy ground to some flaring crack moves near the top. Bolted belay. |
5.7
★ South Arete p1
This pitch is the easiest way to start any climb on the North Apron. It is mostly steep tree climbing, with a few moves in a crack. From the top of the pitch, there are now 4 options to get to Baseline ledge, listed from left to right:
|
5.9
★★ St. Bernard p1
In order to arrive at Baseline ledge (and access St. Vitus, South Arete, etc.), one has to climb two marginal pitches in the trees. This pitch (the first pitch of St. Bernard), offers a better variation to the second pitch in the trees. It is the obvious hand crack that starts above a stump. |
5.10a
★★ St Vitus' Dance Direct Start
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.8
★★★ Calculus Crack
First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;
|
5.9
★★ South Arete
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
★★★ St. Vitus' Dance
Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.
Descent:
Or
|
5.10a
Ha7lh Skwalwen
Lowest baseline ledge: the crack between St. Bernard and Calculus Crack/South Arete/St. Vitus. To reach this route, climb the first pitch of St. Vitus/Calculus Crack to Lower Baseline Ledge. Ha7lh Skwalwen will bring you to upper baseline ledge. |
5.9
★ St. Bernard
Approach: Climb the standard approach pitch of "St. Vitus' Dance" to lower Baseline Ledge.
Gear: Rack to 4 inches. Double hand sizes. Source Squamish Facebook page |
5.10b
★★ Vector
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
Vector (10c variation)
p1: climb the long, 50m crack above Baseline ledge, starting just to the right of St. Vitus' Dance. Belay off of one bolt and a #1,#2, or #3 BD. (5.8) p2: Step right to access a very nice corner that is quite obvious from the Apron parking lot. (10c) At the top, step left and gear belay on St. Vitus' Dance. This is a variation to Vector -- the original line, at 5.9, goes straight up dirty cracks above the first pitch. p3-p4: Climb the last pitches of St. Vitus' Dance. With a 70m, one can link these pitches and reach the trees. |
5.10c
★★ Baseline Direct
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11d
★ Whirling Dervish
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10d
★★ Whirlwind
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10a
★ Dessert Dyke
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10d
★ Form
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10b
★★ Karen's Math
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11a
★★ The Black Streaker
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11a
★★ That Dog Don't Hunt
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
★★ The Climbers Must Be Crazy (2pa)
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11c
★★ Evergreen State
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11d
★★ Voodoo Armour
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11a
★★ No Saints Left
From the baseline ledge follow a line left of st Vitus. Possible to make it a 10b by going up the first pitch of st Vitus off baseline ledge.
|
5.10b
★★ Diamond Back
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Above Broadway
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Above Broadway |
5.9
★★ Memorial Crack
Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top. |
5.12b
Blasphemy
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.7
★★ Boomstick Crack
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.8
★ Granville Street
Start as for Boomstick Crack, moving right to the crack via the bolt, then up the crack for two long pitches, passing a second bolt about 1/3 of the way up the second pitch. Tree belay at the top, then rap the route via 4 rap anchors. WARNING: The second rap is about 33m, so stop at the tree just above the chains! |
5.10a
Eric's route
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10a
Bran Flakes
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
★★ A Question of Balance
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
★★ John 3:16
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.8
★★ Pig Dogs on Parade
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10a
★★ Dances with Pigs
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Squamish Buttress
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Squamish Buttress |
5.10c
★★★ The Squamish Buttress
From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress. P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope. P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain. P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \ P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead. |
5.10c
★ Good Samaritan
This route has it all, from hand jams to fist cams, slot climbing, and delicate slab. you can use this route to link into P3 of the Squamish Buttress/ Butt Light P1: climb a hand crack through a small roof to a slot chimney past a large block. P2: smear up a thin right-leaning seam (small gear and nuts) to the base of a large block. traverse rightwards around the block to a steep burly finish. |
5.10a
★ Community Service
Direct start to the squamish buttress. Starts off of the trail, just before the original start. Bolted climbing leads to a gear protected flake. Can easily link into the second pitch of the buttress in one long pitch. |
5.11b
★ Cornered Rat
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.12a
★ Progress Can't Wait
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.12a
★★★ Heatwave
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.12b
★★ Gemini
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
★★★ Pan Tease
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11c
★★ Pan Tease Upper
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11c
★ Kashmir
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
★★ Butt Light
From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress. P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope. P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain. P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor. P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor. P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top. |
5.14b/c
Bladerunner
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
South Gully
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
South Gully |
5.10d
★ Where the River Bends
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10a
★★★ Rock On
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10c
★★ Rock On Direct
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.9
Bastille
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.12d
★★★ The Great Arch
The Great Arch is one of squamish's very best difficult stemming corners. With no moves being too difficult, it will stay on you till the VERY end and leave you wondering why your legs still hurt 3 days later. The guidebook gives a 13a rating but locals believe it to be more in the 12+ range. A fantastic route. Location The Great Arch is located just left of the second pitch of Rock On. It is accessed via the top of pitch one from rock on or a dirty 4th class low 5th pitch lookers left of the climb. Protection It was originally climbed with fixed pins, then retro bolted after the removal of the pins. The climb has been done (twice) by my knowledge on gear (I watched my partner send skipping the bolts and placing 25 pieces.) However, if you don't have the time to figure out the gear and are less inclined for that challenge, there are 8 bolts. The climb still requires a set of micro nuts, and doubles from very small to .5 camelot and one each from green camalot to gold. An all gear ascent will require the full gamet including brass nuts, 000 c3s etc. |
5.8
The South Gully
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.11a
★ Bong King
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.12d
★★★ The Opal
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
5.10b
★★★ Mercy Street
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Apron Boulders
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Apron Boulders |
The Jungle
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
Apron Boulders The Jungle |
V1
★★ Blair Ditch Project
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
V1
★★ Lost
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |
V3
★★ The Others
There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish. |