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Bulletheads centre

  • 难度体系: US
  • 攀登: 15
4
YDS

季节分布

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描述

A noteworthy route cruises up the wall between bullethead North and the left end of campground wall

准入问题 取自Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

线路

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Grade 线路

首攀: 1981

1 5.11a
2 5.11a
3 5.9
4 5.11b
5 5.10a
  1. 5.11a, 31m; Start up discontinuous features past a bolt to a short left facing corner and up overhanging flakes and underclings past a few bolts

  2. 5.11a, 24m; Wide crack gets you to a short delicate dyke over to the thuggish roof crack, pull the roof and continue up some thought provoking slab

  3. 5.9, 27m; Climb off the left side of the belay up some low angle thin cracks. Step right when possible to another thin crack then up a right trending hand crack.

  4. 5.11b, 28m: Crux pitch. A bit of wide climbing past a nice chock stone and into the splitter finger crack.

  5. 5.10a, 22m: Continue up the crack to the top.

首攀: Kyle Koroll, Ryan Davy, Luke Cormier Sept. 2022 & Luke Cormier, 9月 2022

1 5.10d 30m
2 5.11a 20m
3 5.10c 30m
4 5.11a 70m
5 5.10b 10m

A 160m multi-pitch.

  1. Pitch 1: 5.10d: This pitch is a thinker. Several different ways of doing it are possible. Follow the left facing crack to a tricky layback move. From here you could probably go left, but I found that right, up, and then left worked for me. Once on the left-trending overlaps you can choose to stay on one or move up and and down between them as you work your way to the ramp left of the first bolt. Clipping the first bolt requires committing to tough slab feet (maybe not if you're 6'6"). From there keep going past the second bolt after which the grade eases to 5.9 and runs out a good 20 feet to the corner. Build a belay in the corner. Several 5.10+ cruxes. Watch for rope drag. 30m.

  2. Pitch 2: 5.11a: Climb awkwardly right off the belay under an overlap to a good stance below a left facing flare. The back of the flare takes ok gear and good fist/hand jams, but is deep enough that it's very difficult to move off the jams. The left wall was wet so we pulled on the gear. Dry it's probably thuggish 10. A wide left facing crack leads up and turns into an undercling to an obvious belay alcove. 5.10, 20m.

  3. Pitch 3: 5.10c: Step around the little roof above the belay alcove and head up into the chimney. Place gear as high as possible in the chimney (#3 Camalot), and then downclimb until you can get outside the chimney and make offwidth moves to get above the chimney. It helps to arrange your gear so it's not in the way. The rest of the pitch is probably 5.8 or 5.9, but quite long and finishes with a very pretty finger crack to a treed ledge. It might be possible to take the corner right of the finger crack, but it didn't look well traveled or anywhere near as nice. 5.10, 30m.

  4. Pitch 4: 5.11a: This pitch is obvious from the belay ledge. It goes straight up the amazing face and finishes left of the obvious headwall. It is a FULL 70m and has no fixed gear. It will take tons of gear -- the key is not running out. Use nuts to preserve cams. The line is quite straight but it's so long you want to use runners to keep drag at an absolute minimum. Just when you think you have it made, there's one hard move to get established in the final corner, but it quickly eases off after that. Keep going right to the forest. There are several distinct cruxes and lots of continuous jamming between them. It would be possible to stop at less than 60m, just below the headwall if using a 60m rope or out of gear (but you would need some for the belay). 5.10+, 70m!

  5. Pitch 5: 5.10b continue up the obvious line (best linked with P4 but can be done separately.

首攀: Gordie Smaill & Mike Wisnicki, 1969

自由首攀: Derek Flett & Andrew Boyd, 2010

Alternative start to Liquid Gold trends left up the ramp instead of clipping the bolt then left and up to the finger crack (2 bolts) splitting the face. Finish as for LG.

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Marc Bourdon

日期: 2022

国际书号: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

作者: Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

日期: 2018

国际书号: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

作者: Rich Wheater

日期: 2015

国际书号: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

附近的住宿 more 隐藏

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