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Rozeklaná věž Guide

  • 难度体系: SX
  • Aka: Oschitzer Türme (Zerklüfteter Turm)

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Viol Skalická CzeIgny

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Rozeklaná věž 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.596357, 14.505799

准入问题

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

取自Czechia

行为准则

Rules, principles and standards

Rock climbing in the Czech Republic is regulated by the rules, principles and set of standards for individual areas and crags. Please respect local traditions and rules.

Accept and make yourself familiar with:

  • principles of sport climbing (climb with the help of your own strength only, don't use artificial aids, etc.)
  • principles of first ascents and installing fixed protection
  • competence of regional climbing commissions of Czech Mountaineering Association (list)
  • prohibition of creating and chopping holds
  • which type of removable climbing gear is allowed and don't damaging rock (roped knots, slings, ufos vs. friends, wires, hexes, nuts and cams)
  • possibilities of using chalk (strictly prohibited vs. tolerated)
  • restrictions resulting from weather conditions (e.g. prohibition of climbing on wet rock (eventually hours or days after rain or during winter)

Rules:

  1. Rules of climbing in sandstone rock areas in Bohemia (czech)

  2. Rules of climbing in rock areas of the Czech republic (czech)

  3. Rules of climbing in Jizerské hory area (czech)

取自Czechia
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stará cesta

Od J na travnatou plošinu a šikmo doleva n.v.

II 传统攀登
2 Hlavní komín

Komínem mezi věžemi n.v.

II 传统攀登
3 Nová cesta

Středem J stěny na nižší vrchol a přeskok n.v.

IV 传统攀登
4 Komínová cesta

Mezi M a věží na nižší vrchol a přepadem na hlavní vrchol.

II 传统攀登
5 Přeskok

Z masivu dvěma přeskoky n.v.

II 传统攀登
6 Cesta přes kulisu

Šikmo doprava na SV hranu kulisy, po ní ke K a stěnkou doprava na vrchol. Přepadem a přeskokem na hlavní vrchol.

VI 混合传统攀岩 1
7 Severní stěna

V S stěně šikmo doleva k 1. K, stěnou přímo ke 2. K a n.v.

VII 混合传统攀岩 2
8 Mydlářův úvaz

V S stěně doleva na SV hranu, po ní ke K a převislou hranou n.v.

VII 传统攀登
9 Údolní spára

Údolní spárou n.v.

V 传统攀登
10 Údolní cesta

V levé části údolní stěny šikmo doleva a hranou n.v.

IV 传统攀登
11 Jižní cesta / Südweg

首攀: Karel Bělina & F. Žid, 1978

IV 传统攀登

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Hlavní komín 传统攀登
Komínová cesta 传统攀登
Přeskok 传统攀登
Stará cesta 传统攀登
IV Jižní cesta 传统攀登
Nová cesta 传统攀登
Údolní cesta 传统攀登
V Údolní spára 传统攀登
VI Cesta přes kulisu 混合传统攀岩 1
VII Mydlářův úvaz 传统攀登
Severní stěna 混合传统攀岩 2
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