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Labské pískovce Guide

  传统攀登 83%   运动攀岩 8%   攀石 7%

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Labské pískovce 21,598 routes in Region

7 6 4 1 3 5 2
1 Rájec 2 Tisá 3 Ostrov 4 Děčínský Sněžník 5 Bělá 6 Labské údolí 7 České Švýcarsko
Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.836843, 14.271206

描述

Geologically and historically similar to Sächsische Schweiz, the climbing shares the same ethics and bold climbing. There are, however, also climbing on non-freestanding formations and some bolted routes with sport-climbing protection level (see Labské Údolí)

http://db-sandsteinklettern.gipfelbuch.de/gebiet.php?gebietid=2 hosts a extensive rock and route database with potentially life-saving hints (in German).

http://www.skalnioblasti.cz has similar information in Czech.

准入问题

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

取自Czechia

行为准则

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

历史

First ascents are from 1888 - Pevnost and Lovecká Trubka, conquered by Carl Beck with Meuer brothers.

1.1. Rájec 1,645 routes in Crag

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1 2 3
1 Ptačí stěny 2 Rájecké údolí 3 Ostříží stěny
Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.804545, 14.020217

准入问题

Note that former parking places in Rájec are now closed. Leave your car along the street before entering Rájec.

前往

Get the local climbing guidebook from HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

1.1.1. Ptačí stěny 698 routes in Area

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.808506, 14.017147

1.1.2. Rájecké údolí 661 routes in Area

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.802954, 14.022324

准入问题

The area is closed every year from 1.3. until 30.6. due to falcon nesting. Pay attention to local markings and do not climb in March-June!

Note that former parking places in Rájec are now closed. Leave your car along the street before entering Rájec.

1.1.3. Ostříží stěny 286 routes in Area

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Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.799378, 14.023258

1.2. Tisá 2,916 routes in Crag

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4 1 2 3 5 6 8 7
1 Malé stěny 2 Velké stěny 3 Věže za cestou 4 Bürschlické stěny 5 Hřebenové stěny 6 Stěny pod silnicí 7 Modřín 8 Anglický parčík
Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.785566, 14.056339

描述

Most of the crags are inside the PP Tisá protected area. Pay attention to local climbing rules - see summary in ethics.

Some routes are not allowed for climbing due to rock quality.

准入问题

Main parking in centre, 4€/100CZK per day and safe https://goo.gl/maps/f3ocUojptFtzU7PK7

Another option near "Turistická chata" https://goo.gl/maps/RiugwTMPNVr5aPKo9

前往

Get the local climbing guidebook from HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

行为准则

  1. Use of chalk is prohibited.

  2. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  3. No changing of the rock surface.

  4. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  5. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  6. No further first ascents are alowed within the PP Tisá protected area

  7. Few routes are closed due to damaged rock. Each of them is noted here in TheCrag.

  8. Some areas may be closed temporarily due to bird nesting.

Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/203/028713.pdf?seek=1522314151

1.2.1. Malé stěny 511 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.790469, 14.027861

1.2.2. Velké stěny 782 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.787888, 14.034489

1.2.3. Věže za cestou 70 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.786517, 14.039157

1.2.4. Bürschlické stěny 380 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.792072, 14.034855

1.2.5. Hřebenové stěny 240 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.786224, 14.032778

1.2.6. Stěny pod silnicí 406 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.781503, 14.047762

1.2.7. Modřín 372 routes in Area

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Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.776955, 14.067934

描述

THE October sector. Vertical, oriented south, dries extremely quickly.

准入问题

Kóta 40 to Jelení skála CLOSED every spring due to bird nesting (March to end of June). Do not drive into the forest even if it seems convenient. You will get reported and fined.

1.2.8. Anglický parčík 155 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.779128, 14.080641

准入问题

(50.77748, 14.08376)

1.3. Ostrov 3,526 routes in Crag

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1 4 2 3
1 Severní část 2 Východní část 3 Jižní část 4 Západní část
Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801714, 14.048780

总结

Valley with numerous small and mid-sized sandstone towers and blocks.

描述

The village of Ostrov sits at a (car-)dead-end road right at the border to Germany. Passage to the popular Bielatal by foot or bike is a breeze, but the cliffs around the village already offer hundreds of climbs.

Grading:

The original JPK grading was a pure chaos where VIIa could be anything between VIIa and VIIIb. Therefore the main grading system on theCrag is now Saxon in line with the Geoquest topo-guidebook and based on the climbers' contributions. For routes where Saxon grade is unknown and only JPK is known, this is highlighted in the route description. Please add personal grade contributions in Saxon context so the grade database will get more complete.

Infrastructure:

The village offers climbers' bar/restaurant and 4* hotel restaurant, a lake for swimming and the occasional visit of ambitious high-line slackliners. Camp is usually crowded during main season.

准入问题

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

前往

From German side by foot or bike, from south via Tisa. No public transport.

New official parking, paid (50.80204, 14.05041)

住宿

There is a rustic campground and a 4-star-hotel in the village.

1.3.1. Severní část 650 routes in Area

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动植物: Ban due to bird nesting

Closed until 30.6.: Jelení věž, Skála Františka Záběhlíka, Skála bělské jeskyně, Ježek, Hranolek, Hranol, Věž nad strží, Sírová věž, Obelisk.

Open again: Obr and around

查看警示信息和相关讨论

Created 5周前
Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.809573, 14.057213

1.3.2. Východní část 1,294 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801635, 14.052945

1.3.3. Jižní část 690 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796040, 14.046760

1.3.4. Západní část 892 routes in Area

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802837, 14.039503

1.4. Děčínský Sněžník 2,465 routes in Crag

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15 8 14 2 17 7 6 3 16 5 4 10 9 11 13
2 Dresden 3 Piknik u cesty 4 Best of direct 5 Respekt 6 Skalní město 7 Rolling stones 8 East Side 9 U schodů 10 Ganja field 11 Ve Svahu 13 Balvan Babu 14 Severní stěny 15 Skály u sporného potoka 16 Stěny nad silnicí 17 Stěny pod rozhlednou
Summary:
Bouldering 和 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799591, 14.102975

描述

See also Description - Lezec.cz (czech)

Old Guidebook from 2004 - Děčínský Sněžník: bouldering. 3. vyd. 2004. 34 s.

准入问题

Main guarded parking in Sněžník, 40CZK/hour and max 120CZK/day (50.791805, 14.087023)

west (50.791854, 14.081878) northeast (50.791854, 14.081878)

前往

Get the local climbing guidebook from HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

1.4.1. Dresden 69 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.797726, 14.104628

1.4.2. Piknik u cesty 128 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.791945, 14.099596

1.4.3. Best of direct 233 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.790612, 14.103984

描述

http://www.czechclimbing.com/pruvodcx.php?key=1385

1.4.4. Respekt 387 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.791853, 14.107269

描述

Around 394 Problems

前往

Just go to the stone lookout and then downhill a path.

1.4.5. Skalní město 88 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.793516, 14.109487

1.4.6. Rolling stones 134 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.794554, 14.114021

1.4.7. East Side 437 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.797647, 14.118946

1.4.8. U schodů 58 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.788423, 14.100222

1.4.9. Ganja field 129 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.788618, 14.106679

1.4.10. Ve Svahu 74 routes in Field

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Summary:
所有 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.784339, 14.107241

1.4.11. Balvan Babu 8 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.778793, 14.097399

1.4.12. Severní stěny 194 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.797888, 14.105329

1.4.13. Skály u sporného potoka 33 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.816535, 14.098544

1.4.14. Stěny nad silnicí 198 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.792047, 14.099306

1.4.15. Stěny pod rozhlednou 295 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.794682, 14.111593

1.5. Bělá 784 routes in Crag

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97 65 64 32 63 62 60 96 95 61 94 59 31 29 30 58 33 66 85 57 28 27 26 25 84 24 56 67 23 55 83 86 22 54 42 20 19 68 93 17 34 53 35 87 41 52 91 40 88 50 51 89 49 90 69 39 16 15 14 38 36 82 37 13 81 48 80 47 9 12 8 11 7 6 5 4 2 43 3 45 44 70 72 71 1 73 74 75 76 79 78 77 100 101 99
1 Mogman 2 Rybniční hráz 3 Starosta 4 Podmokelská věž 5 Chameleon 6 Pizarro 7 Ledová korunka 8 Školník 9 Zimní věž 11 Podzimní věž 12 Jarní věž 13 Želva 14 Veselá jehla 15 Rozsocháč 16 Sluneční věž 17 Sestry 19 Medvídek 20 Mamut 22 Bělský masiv 23 Motýlí kužel 24 Dědova hlava 25 Pilíř 26 Plotnová věž 27 Masivy za Lokomotivou 28 Lokomotiva 29 Májka 30 Strojvůdce 31 Průvodčí 32 Děravec 33 Chytač duše 34 Permoník 35 Obétní kámen 36 Orlí hnízdo 37 Vyhlídková věž 38 Orel 39 Zarostlá věž 40 Vyhlídka 41 Modrá hlava 42 Lesní duch 43 Faraón 44 Strážní stěna 45 Strážce Bělé 47 Mexiko 48 Cortéz 49 Páže 50 Císař 51 Bratři 52 Hubený strážce 53 Bukvice 54 Havraní stěna - jižní 55 Havraní kámen 56 Havrní stěna - prostřední 57 Havraní stěna - severní 58 Houba 59 Zobák 60 Vnější stráž 61 Buková koruna 62 Balboa 63 Odsouzencova hlava 64 Opuštěná věž 65 Kat 66 Konírna 67 Bělský kámen (Córdoba) 68 Masiv KPH 69 Lesní hrádek 70 Bělská jehla 71 Brána 72 Velká věž 73 Malá věž 74 Děčínská stěna 75 Hvězda severu 76 Špicberky 77 Pastýřská jehlička 78 Bělský převis 79 Stěna pod vysílačem 80 Chmelák 81 Říjnová stěna 82 Tajný masiv 83 Štokrle 84 Kukla 85 Aura 86 Zarostlá skála 87 Marinuška 88 Baba Roga 89 Děda Mráz 90 Baba Jaga 91 Modrý masiv 93 Kvádr 94 Severovýchodní masiv 95 Starý hrad 96 Divoký hrad 97 Prolejzačka 99 Jílovská jehla 100 Zapomenutý kámen 101 Bynovská stěna
Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799030, 14.159910

1.5.1. Mogman 4 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.794570, 14.167700

1.5.2. Rybniční hráz 10 routes in Boulder

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795690, 14.168890

1.5.3. Starosta 11 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795560, 14.168000

1.5.4. Podmokelská věž 16 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795780, 14.168500

1.5.5. Chameleon 5 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796190, 14.168190

1.5.6. Pizarro 4 routes in Boulder

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796280, 14.168560

1.5.7. Ledová korunka 8 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796610, 14.168280

1.5.8. Školník 3 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796805, 14.167826

1.5.9. Zimní věž 9 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796940, 14.167420

1.5.10. Červená stěna 2 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

1.5.11. Podzimní věž 16 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796670, 14.167420

1.5.12. Jarní věž 8 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.796940, 14.167690

1.5.13. Želva 7 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.798060, 14.169840

1.5.14. Veselá jehla 6 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799260, 14.170610

1.5.15. Rozsocháč 9 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799390, 14.170650

1.5.16. Sluneční věž 15 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799620, 14.170940

1.5.17. Sestry 15 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801070, 14.170830

1.5.18. Saturnin 3 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

1.5.19. Medvídek 11 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801140, 14.170960

1.5.20. Mamut 3 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801194, 14.170257

1.5.21. Bandaska 4 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

1.5.22. Bělský masiv 8 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801290, 14.171040

1.5.23. Motýlí kužel 8 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801460, 14.170960

1.5.24. Dědova hlava 6 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801470, 14.170580

1.5.25. Pilíř 4 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801500, 14.171170

1.5.26. Plotnová věž 15 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801650, 14.171170

1.5.27. Masivy za Lokomotivou 2 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 50.801690, 14.171000

1.5.28. Lokomotiva 11 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801730, 14.170850

1.5.29. Májka 4 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802420, 14.172170

1.5.30. Strojvůdce 6 routes in Boulder

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802420, 14.172360

1.5.31. Průvodčí 8 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802623, 14.173079

1.5.32. Děravec 7 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.804970, 14.176420

1.5.33. Chytač duše 7 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802159, 14.167984

1.5.34. Permoník 5 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801070, 14.168580

1.5.35. Obétní kámen 19 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801030, 14.167640

1.5.36. Orlí hnízdo 7 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799060, 14.168510

1.5.37. Vyhlídková věž 9 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.798860, 14.169080

1.5.38. Orel 5 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.799260, 14.168850

1.5.39. Zarostlá věž 7 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800050, 14.164740

1.5.40. Vyhlídka 11 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800812, 14.165218

1.5.41. Modrá hlava 5 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800900, 14.163880

1.5.42. Lesní duch 9 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801240, 14.161690

1.5.43. Faraón 12 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795570, 14.162900

1.5.44. Strážní stěna 20 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795190, 14.160690

1.5.45. Strážce Bělé 6 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795250, 14.160500

1.5.46. Neznámá stěna 7 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

1.5.47. Mexiko 3 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.797080, 14.159560

1.5.48. Cortéz 4 routes in Boulder

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.797250, 14.159610

1.5.49. Páže 12 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800500, 14.156920

1.5.50. Císař 8 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800750, 14.156720

1.5.51. Bratři 9 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800720, 14.157060

1.5.52. Hubený strážce 6 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800890, 14.156810

1.5.53. Bukvice 7 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801070, 14.156700

1.5.54. Havraní stěna - jižní 15 routes in Cliff

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801250, 14.156640

1.5.55. Havraní kámen 14 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801440, 14.156670

1.5.56. Havrní stěna - prostřední 6 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801470, 14.156670

1.5.57. Havraní stěna - severní 7 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801970, 14.156530

1.5.58. Houba 12 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802220, 14.155470

1.5.59. Zobák 6 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.803190, 14.155000

1.5.60. Vnější stráž 7 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.804080, 14.155780

1.5.61. Buková koruna 11 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.803970, 14.155250

1.5.62. Balboa 3 routes in Boulder

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.804920, 14.154060

1.5.63. Odsouzencova hlava 8 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.804970, 14.153610

1.5.64. Opuštěná věž 19 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.805500, 14.152470

1.5.65. Kat 9 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.805580, 14.152580

1.5.66. Konírna 4 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.802030, 14.152440

1.5.67. Bělský kámen (Córdoba) 10 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801470, 14.153940

1.5.68. Masiv KPH 8 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801140, 14.152420

1.5.69. Lesní hrádek 4 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800250, 14.152750

1.5.70. Bělská jehla 7 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.795160, 14.155240

1.5.71. Brána 5 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.794800, 14.154550

1.5.72. Velká věž 9 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.794850, 14.155080

1.5.73. Malá věž 14 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.794560, 14.155220

1.5.74. Děčínská stěna 2 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.794500, 14.155140

1.5.75. Hvězda severu 6 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.790860, 14.146720

1.5.76. Špicberky 12 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.790190, 14.145810

1.5.77. Pastýřská jehlička 8 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.780184, 14.184903

1.5.78. Bělský převis 2 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.780520, 14.185257

1.5.79. Stěna pod vysílačem 3 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.785132, 14.178999

1.5.80. Chmelák 3 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.797096, 14.168294

1.5.81. Říjnová stěna 3 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.797631, 14.168883

1.5.82. Tajný masiv 1 route in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.798870, 14.170999

1.5.83. Štokrle 2 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801360, 14.171116

1.5.84. Kukla 2 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801471, 14.171136

1.5.85. Aura 10 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801998, 14.167974

1.5.86. Zarostlá skála 9 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801336, 14.167961

1.5.87. Marinuška 10 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800940, 14.167398

1.5.88. Baba Roga 11 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800762, 14.167222

1.5.89. Děda Mráz 13 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800600, 14.167522

1.5.90. Baba Jaga 7 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800406, 14.166601

1.5.91. Modrý masiv 3 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.800868, 14.165310

1.5.92. Bratranec 2 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

1.5.93. Kvádr 9 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.801083, 14.157281

1.5.94. Severovýchodní masiv 5 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.803946, 14.156253

1.5.95. Starý hrad 21 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.803977, 14.155999

1.5.96. Divoký hrad 7 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.804004, 14.155596

1.5.97. Prolejzačka 5 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.805583, 14.152361

1.5.98. Katovna 14 routes in Cliff

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1.5.99. Jílovská jehla 5 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.773269, 14.132977

1.5.100. Zapomenutý kámen 4 routes in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.777976, 14.144245

1.5.101. Bynovská stěna 1 route in Cliff

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.777872, 14.146568

1.6. Labské údolí 6,275 routes in Crag

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2 1
1 Levý břeh 2 Pravý břeh
Summary:
传统攀登, 运动攀岩 和 Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.820954, 14.223564

总结

High sandstone walls along the Elbe river and its side valleys. Combination of trad routes (1990 and older, no chalk) and modern routes (glued-in bolts, chalk and better protection than the old ones).

描述

Betom XIc [Sport 8c face climb on the Left Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2022.

Otisk prstu IXc [Sport 7b+ crack on the Left Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2022.

ValleyWall Xb [Sport 7c+/8a face climb on the Left Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2019.

BigWall VIIIc [Trad 6b+ crack on the Right Bank] (short film, EN subtitles). eMontana.cz, 2016.

Psáno do písku - Na břehu [Written in the Sand - On the Bank] (short film). Alternative.NOW, HUDYsport, 2019. (czech)

前往

Get the local climbing guidebook from HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

行为准则

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No toproping if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).

  5. First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz for right side, spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz for left side.

  6. Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".

历史

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.

#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used.

#grade: scale is tougher than the one in Saxon Switzerland, approximately by one point.

Climbing started in 1904 when the top of Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by German climbers and after WWII by Czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to a high performance direction. The trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but there is no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí the number one sport location in the Czech Republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!

1.6.1. Levý břeh 2,373 routes in Area

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Summary:
传统攀登 和 运动攀岩

Lat / Long: 50.809503, 14.211419

总结

Walls of left side of Elbe river canyon, including Dolni Zleb (Niedergrund).

描述

Route names were imported in German for most cliffs in Left bank. Adding the czech names is highly appreciated! Data available here.

准入问题

As of May 2022, according to the Ranger, parking is NOT allowed along the narrow left-bank street. There are only a few places at the ferry in Dolní Žleb. Don't drive to the center of Dolní Žleb (behind railroad) and don't block the road. Arrival via ferry is preferred as the Left-bank street to Děčín is very narrow. Local train operates frequently to Děčín and Bad Schandau with plenty of free parking places in both cities' train stations.

前往

Get the local climbing guidebook from U Kosti or HUDY Hřensko.

住宿

U Kosti! That's the center of everything in Left bank.

历史

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.

#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used.

#grade: scale is tougher than the one in Saxony Switzerland, approximately by one point.

Climbing started in 1904 when Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by german climbers and after WWII by czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to high performance direction. Trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but its no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí number one sport location in the Czech republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!

1.6.2. Pravý břeh 3,902 routes in Area

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Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.831750, 14.235359

描述

Most of the crags are inside the NPR Kaňon Labe protected area. Pay attention to local climbing rules and bird nesting closures. See ethics.

The grade system is usualy one grade tougher compared to the one used in Saxony Switzerland.

Cliffs and routes to be sorted left-to-right, when you look from elbe towards the rocks. Same as in climbing guidebook Chocholoušek&Nehasil, 2015.

准入问题

Main parking places are:

  1. Labská Stráň: Belveder. Parking at cemetery is prohibited, don't go there!

  2. So called pila: (50.8202, 14.2488) near Bynovec is ok but car break-ins occur during night.

  3. Cemetery Ludvíkovice.

  4. Main street Hřensko-Děčín, near ferry to Dolní Žleb.

前往

Get the local climbing guidebook from U Kosti, HUDY Hřensko or Refugio Tisá.

行为准则

  1. Use of chalk is prohibited. Note that 95% of sport routes are climbed with chalk despite the rule.

  2. Certain crags are closed from 1.2. to 30.6. due to bird nesting. Check the access issues of each sub-area or map in the pictures. Always respect local markings and possible closure extensions.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No changing of the rock surface.

  5. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  6. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (allowed if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock).

  7. Jumping (=přeskok, Sprung) is not allowed.

  8. First ascents only after approval of the area administrator Labske Udoli first ascent rules and contact is spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz

  9. Strict ban of using not-approved fixed equipment such as OBI "Gerüstöse".

National Park document

历史

#trad: typically routes created before 1990, long runouts, trad-rack needed, climbed without chalk. Check "Smyslů zbaveni" IXc with no protection in the first 30 meters.

#sport: rather new routes, bolted, shorter runouts (but still measured in metures), chalk generally used although banned on Right bank.

#grade: scale is tougher than the one in Saxony Switzerland, approximately by one point.

Climbing started in 1904 when Klarka tower was reached. Climbing was developed first by german climbers and after WWII by czechs. The rules had been very strict regarding first ascents and placing fixed protection resulting in fearless, risky but valuable #trad ascents. In mid 90s, first #sport routes were established and climbing moved rather to high performance direction. Trend of sport routes is still viewed negatively by some trad climbers but its no doubt that the new routes made Labské údolí number one sport location in the Czech republic. Both trad and sport routes coexist next to each other. Choose wisely!

1.7. České Švýcarsko 3,987 routes in Crag

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6 5 1 2 4 3 8 7
1 Hřensko 2 Vysoká Lípa 3 Soutěsky 4 Jetřichovice 5 Na Tokání 6 Kyjovské údolí 7 Vřesová dolina 8 Srbská Kamenice a Všemily
Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.861394, 14.364175

总结

Most of the crags are inside the National Park Czech Switzerland. Pay attention to local climbing rules - see summary in ethics.

前往

Climbing Guidebook Jetřichovicko, 2012, V.Nehasil+D.Nehasil is no longer available. Databases of CHS and especially skalnioblasti provide additional information and route descriptions.

住宿

Many hotel and pension possibilities in all villages. Camps are in Mezní Louka, Vysoká Lípa, Jetřichovice.

行为准则

Nature Park rules overwrite the general sandstone climbing rules:

  1. Only certain crags are permitted for climbing. Those closed for climbing are all highlighted with #closed tag.

  2. Climbing is allowed only in certain months. See Description of each cliff.

  3. Use of chalk is prohibited.

  4. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock and during daylight.

  5. No changing of the rock surface.

  6. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  7. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  8. First ascents must be approved upfront from national park and ČHS administration. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  9. Only official access paths can be used. See maps attached in the particular areas.

Referred official document: https://www.horosvaz.cz/res/archive/332/056710.pdf?seek=1594370530

1.7.1. Hřensko 740 routes in Area

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Summary:
总体而言 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.883208, 14.270124

准入问题

available in Hřensko (50.8750, 14.2540) or Mezní Louka (50.8727, 14.3164), both paid. Do not ever park at street side. You will get fined.

1.7.2. Vysoká Lípa 319 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.878469, 14.353001

准入问题

paid (50.86208, 14.35511)

1.7.3. Soutěsky 377 routes in Area

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.858318, 14.320384

1.7.4. Jetřichovice 855 routes in Area

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.859338, 14.407544

准入问题

paid (50.85381, 14.39854)

1.7.5. Na Tokání 533 routes in Area

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.890974, 14.404668

准入问题

free at (50.87300, 14.44710). Driving further past this point is not permitted.

1.7.6. Kyjovské údolí 557 routes in Area

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所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.925617, 14.427429

1.7.7. Vřesová dolina 152 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.808247, 14.308656

1.7.8. Srbská Kamenice a Všemily 454 routes in Area

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Summary:
所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.829638, 14.373411

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