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Amora Gedel

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总结

The best crag near Addis with some solid rocks and a few multipitch routes.

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描述

Armora Gedel (Hawk’s Cliff) is a 40 to 50m basalt, southeast-facing cliff located in the Entoto Mountains next to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. The wall is mostly high-quality basalt and offers steep faces, cracks, crimpers, pockets, aretes and roofs! Climbing season (dry season) in the Ethiopian central highlands runs from mid-September to early June. The entire cliff is in the shade, usually after 1pm, and the sun goes down at 630pm year round. A small group of expat climbers started setting routes in March 2013. As the climbing community in Addis Ababa grows, new route development has continued well into 2016. From the beginning, climbers have tried to integrate the local community as much as possible and negotiated a small climbers fee of 5 birr ($0.25) per climber per day with Ato Alemayu, who leases and farms the land below the cliff. In return, Alemayu is responsible for keeping the children from throwing rocks over the cliff (helmets are highly recommended) and for maintaining general order for rock climbers. At the beginning of each dry season, climbers should negotiate with Alemayu and his family to maintain the trails at the base of the walls. All routes are equipped with two-bolt anchors with chains, slings or at least quick links to lower or abseil. A 60m rope is mandatory. Some climbs on Adwa Wall require 70m to reach the ground. Sport climbers should carry a minimum of 12 quickdraws and trad climbers, a full-rack. The village of Kile is located above the crag. Here dozens of families, whose native tongue is Oromifa, live and farm the adjacent lands. Please respect the farmers and their fields. In Kile, climbers can find water, beer, soft drinks, coffee and sometimes snacks. With the right amount of communication skills, climbers could probably negotiate a meal of injera and wot. The giant fig tree below the walls offers an excellent place to camp. Negotiate firewood and beer in the village before going down. Expect to pay 100 birr per bundle of firewood, which includes delivery. For a more intense and interactive experience, climbers can set up their tents in the village for 40 birr per tent. We recommend Werke’s compound. Several Kile children began climbing with us in 2013 and then received shoes and harnesses through donations. If you visit, please allow them to climb on toprope and give them positive encouragement! Refrain from giving gifts to children, because it creates fierce competition. If you want to help a village, go to Kile and work it out with adults or choose another village.

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准入问题

In May 2017, climbers reached a new agreement with Alemayu, and signed a contract at the Kaakoo kebele administrative office (Kile is one of four villages in the kebele).

The new agreement states that Alemayu will be payed 2200 ETB yearly. This covers: -Unlimited access to the cliff. -He is responsible for our safety when it comes to rock throwing. -He will clear the base of the cliff from vegetation after each rainy season. The payment will be in to parts: the first after the base have been cleared, the second six months after.

NO MORE FEES ARE TO BE PAYED AT THE CLIFF.

The agreement was signed in the presence or the deputy administrative head of the kebele, and if there are any violations of the agreement we can bring this directly to the kebele. The money for the fee will be covered by a 200 ETB membership fee to the Addis Ababa Rock Climbing Club (AARCC)*. Any surplus funds can be used to aid the Kaakoo community, or otherwise in ways the club sees fit to promote climbing in Addis Ababa and Ethiopia. It should also be noted that we are allowed to park in the kebele compound, located on the left a few hundred meters after the telecast and the sharp, left turn.

Currently a paved road is under construction, connecting Addis Ababa and the Observatory.

AARCC is so far an informal gathering of climbers that share the joy of climbing; at Amora Gedel, Juventus Sports Club and elsewhere in Ethiopia. Efforts are on the way to make the club a licensed, legal body under Ethiopian law. At the time of this writing, the Climbing CLub was head by Alexander Sellerholm. If you are really going to visit, you should join the FB group here: facebook.com/groups/1198223…

Be aware that Ethiopia's rainy season usually extends from mid May to mid September. Climbing days are to be had if you wake up early, in June and in September. In July and August it rarely stops raining long enough for things to dry.

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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前往

Either drive to Kile village above the cliff, park there and walk down (this requires a car that can go on dirt roads).

Or take a taxi to the roundabout at the end of the French Embassy road (near Kidane Miheret church). Then walk to the crag (there are multiple ways that seem to change depending on the years/seasons).

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历史

历史时间线表

Route creation began back in April 2013 and continues today. See here for further details on the history: https://nicoparco.com/rock-climbing-in-ethiopia-changed-village-forever/

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部分内容经许可发布自: © Nico Parco ()

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