攀登 in Europe 如同运动攀岩 by Josh Ellis

Got 2/3s the way up, realised there weren’t any more draws. 😂 Fumbled the crux clip second shot, should have just skipped both draws and sent it. Wish I tried this at the start of the trip, very achievable for me. 🤷‍♀️

Couldn’t remember enough to be useful, couldn’t get past the second draw! Sussed it, came down for another go.

Proper fight at the top! Pumped! Awesome route!

Warm down, got pretty pumped!

Lovely route!

Decided to quest into the blank headwall instead of using obvious tufa on the onsight. What a plonker!

Easy when done right!

Cool warm up!

Talked a big game about on sighting the shit outta’ it. Didn’t.

Too tired, too sweaty, too hungover. 😂

Gotta’ be one of the best at the grade on the island!

 

1. Blew the onsight by both falling and clipping a wrong bolt. Felt pretty nails!

2. Found a clutch knee bar that I previously missed right before the roof sequence, saved me I think! One of my favourite climbs on Kaly so far!

In blazing sun defo added something! Pretty cool.

What a bloody weird number. Literally nearly fell clipping the chains. Hardest climb of the day! Lol 😂

Project shopping continues! Found it much more straight forward than Agelias, cruxes are definitely harder but the moves are cooler. Maybe…

Honestly liked this way less than Ivi and found it harder. (Condys we’re super sweaty tho 🥵). Polished and wet not my fav tbh.

Really nervous for some reason, maybe because of a first 7b onsight opportunity. So amped the whole way up, couldn’t calm down. Very different style wise for Kaly, sharp and crimpy! Blew it at the crux.

Bit tired on the second go, (after doing "Valhalla") but was the first calm pitch I had. Nice climb but rough on skin!

So shaky still, don’t know why. Totally my style, very à la Ceuse Cascade style, steep start followed by big moves on good holds on the headwall. So close to punting multiple times, only stayed on thanks to Matthias Lei spraying me down at just the right times. ‘Twas a battle!

One of those “warm ups” that didn’t really warm me up physically but kinda’ freaked me out mentally (it was a bit ledgy/weird) so I was kinda’ worse of than when I started! 🤷‍♀️

Blew a foot from a knee bar about 1/3 the way up on the onsight, not that I expected to onsight anyways! Was going pretty good till the tufa fins, then it gets pretty tricky. Thought this would be right up my alley with all the knee bars, but it still feels super sustained. Not sure if this will be my first 7c proj in Kaly. Got a bit lost getting into the big tufa at the bottom second attempt, fought up around 1/3 of the way and punted off. First go trashed me!

Pumpy warm up! Great fun.

 

1. Putting the draws on. Builds nicely in difficulty to a desperate crux. Tried going right a few times but nails sequence and could get to the tufa or get the last draw in.

2. Went well up to crux then wrecked myself getting through it. Danny Paradorn looked way closer but heartbreaking finish!

Warm up, forgot my chalk bag!

Last climb of the day so I could tick something! Knackered probably would have fallen off on anything harder. Cool route, big moves on big holds.

 

1. Missed the bloody obvious knee bar in the first boulder problem, I’m supposed to be the knee bar guy! 🤷‍♂️

2. Immediately got my hands reversed, what a bellend.

3. Should’ve flashed at least the bottom crux tbh, oh well. Cool climb. https://youtu.be/OsllLi3gj30

Last climb of the day. Fumbled a hold on the Boulder at the bottom and dropped it, pulled straight back on and had a good battle to the top. Nice sustained climbing. Will try again if I’m back there.

Very cool, gym like holds at the bottom, rad tufa fin at the top!

Nice intro to Kaly climbing. Put the draws on for Dale who said he’d clean it and didn’t!

Was supposed to be a warm up but read it horribly, at least Roe punted off too so I didn't feel like such a wally!

Lovely when you use the right holds.

Went up to clean the draws off Medusa Falls, followed the bolts v direct, making it bloody nails and punted off!

Spicy fun! Committing 3rd bolt when putting the draws in! Apprantly first done as a solo, suprised they could get up with the weight of their massive balls!

Bloody lovely route!

Techy as!

Tippy tappy feet!

Crux caught me off guard a bit first go! Even down climbed to the ledge to try and preserve the onsight! Boxed myself into a corner and fell eventually. Tried pretty hard though.

Just balancey really, not too physical once you sus it.

Lovely route.

Too bloody hot for anything harder! Nice jam opportunity!

Fucking gripped the whole way! Something about Portland just gets me tense man! Was convinced I was gonna blow a hold again!

Warm up! Perfect storm of great condys, Luke spraying me down and a dash of bum clenching. Pretty soft compared to other outings at the grade I’ve done but I’ll take it!

Probably could have done it putting the draws on tbh.

Think I had it in my head it was really hard from a few months ago. I remember it being twice as long and half the bolts, funny what a few months of climbing can do!

Lovely route.

Lovely route! Struggling to calm down though, defo overgripping, that first climb got in my head I think.

Choss at the bottom convinced me I was going to blow a hold and I did! Mega whip. Spicy finish.

Spooged off the crux first go, but I think my sequence was wrong anyway so don’t think I would’ve got the onsight.

Got it second go by the skin of my teeth!

Fun! Some unlikely holds at the top! When that big one breaks off it won’t be 6b+ anymore!

Bit of an engaging start for a “warm up”!

Amnesia flash! Bit spoogy!

Fell at the crux putting the draws in, but felt more comfortable than usual on this terrain.

Second go felt good, barely gripped at all. I think I even enjoyed it!

Felt sooo much easier when a bit fresher, still fell off the top though! 🤷‍♀️

Was determined to flash this… fell off between the 2nd and 3rd draw. 😂

Sooo polished at the bottom. Feet were slippin’ all over the shop at the bottom, climbed the top nervous and without feet, which was pumpy!

Cleaned most of it up on subsequent goes but couldn 't stick the last move!

Fell off slightly less than last time but I didn’t have the excuse “it was dark” this time, so… 🤷‍♀️

 

1. Felt harder than the first try the other day! Think I just did the roof a bit worse than my first go and it cooked me!

2. Accidentally cut feet through the roof, changed my beta on most of the headwall, practically an onsight attempt again, but it went this time!

Tried really hard but came off coming out the roof, will be back for this one. Really fun.

Fell off a hilarious amount of times. All footwork + fading light made it quite the challenge will tidy up some other day, need to work this shit.

Finally ticked something I guess. 🤷‍♀️