线路 in Mont Blanc du Tacul 4248m

Follows left edge of Triangle Rocheuax du Tacul. Approach on glacier.

Start up a ice runnel far L on face to reach a R slanting gully. Follow this for 2 piches up to a faint butress in the face. CLimb straigh up to snowband and traverse L to find a weak line through the top rocks before reaching the L flank of the Triangle about half way up.

Nice mixed climb as introduction to alpine mixed climbing. Follows the left side of the N-triangle Rocheux

Ice couloir, narrow and up to 80 degrees. Very popular all year round. Belays for rappel down route if you turn around at top of couloir.

Best accessed from Aiguille du Midi ca. 1h over glacier. Need to have skills for glacier travel.

1. Descend the Aiguille du Midi slope and a ~30 minute approach will bring you to the base of the traverse.

2. Climb the 40 degree snow slope between the southeast and middle summits.

3. Easy scrambling with some exposure will bring you to the central summit. Downclimb on the south side for about 3m to reach a bolted abseil on an exposed ledge.

4. A 30m abseil (bring a long enough rope!) down the north face will land you on an exposed and stunning snow ridge linking the central and main summits. Follow this to the foot of the rock buttress and the crux pitch.

5. 4a. The crux is easier than it looks but there may be some loose rock and requires care. Take a small rack to climb this section. Can be done in 1-2 pitches.

6. At the top, follow the snow slope easily to reach the main summit.

7. Descent: Easy descend down the snow ridge before turning eastwards and walking down to rejoin the approach path back to the Midi.

Couloir climbing with up to vertical ice. Otherwise 75-85. Belays for rappel.

Ice couloir up to 85 degrees. Fixed belays and rappels.

50-60 snow & ice climb.

Steep 90 degrees and long couloir. Direct start is a classic test piece of thin ice on steep rock.

Ice climbing couloir with some mixed pitches ( depending on conditions). Fixes bolted belays for rappeling down the route. 300m of difficulties.

An excellent route with varied climbing. Rock is mostly excellent, however pitch 3 and 4 have some loose rock. The last pitch is the crux and ended on a small summit. The belays are bolted and there are numerous pitons through out the climb. A standard rack will get you up.

TD 6b+>6a A1

L1 6a

L2 5c

L3 5b

L4 4c 100 m of easy terrain

L5 6a Delicate traverse

L6 6b+>6a/A1

L7 5b

L8 3

L9 5c

Climbs also as 6a A0.

Bolt belays all along the route, plus some bolts on the slabs and on the hardest movement of the route.

Combination of the Old Bonnati route first 4 pitches and the last 2 pitches of Tabou makes for a good 5c to 6b+ climb. This avoids the harder pitches of the other routes.

Normal route on Mt Blanc du Tacul. The NW-face may some years have hanging glaciers that are difficult to cross. Also the first part of the "3 montes route" to ascend Mt Blanc.