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Ameisenturm Guide

  • 难度体系: SX
  • 攀登: 2

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome vilda_hkvdf Konrad

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Ameisenturm 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.915330, 14.229114

准入问题

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

取自Sächsische Schweiz

行为准则

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
取自Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

首攀: Helmut Claus, 1951

IV 传统攀登
2 Alter Weg Winkelvariante IV 传统攀登
3 Alter Weg Schartenspreize IV 传统攀登
4 !Alter Weg Hangelvariante VI 传统攀登
5 Alter Weg Hangelvariante Erwähnung

Rechts vom "Südriss" den linken zweier Risse zur Einschartung.

IV 传统攀登
6 Südriss V 传统攀登
7 Südriss Erwähnung

2 m rechts vom "Südriss" Handriss bis Ende und links hangeln zum Riss.

V 传统攀登
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Ameisenbiss

AF IXb. Links in der Südseite Wand und Kante (4R) zG.

首攀: Kurt Kmoch & Markus Schäfer, 4 6月 2021

IXc 混合传统攀岩 4
9 Osterhase

with support VIIIa

VIIIa 混合传统攀岩 2
10 Ameisenbande

AF VIIIa. Links vom "Weg zu Höherem" Hangelrippen zu R und Rinne (Sanduhr) leicht rechts zu 2.R vom "Weg zu Höherem". Diesen zG.

首攀: Kurt Kmoch, J. Brzezinski, M. Goltz, J. Kmoch, I. Brzezinski, J. Berger, E. Erbes & M. Schäfer, 27 6月 2021

VIIIb 混合传统攀岩 2
11 Weg zu Höherem

AF VIIIa

VIIIb 混合传统攀岩 2
12 Ostgrat IV 传统攀登
13 Bergweg IV 传统攀登
14 Bergweg Sprungvariante IV 2 传统攀登

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
IV Alter Weg 传统攀登
Alter Weg Hangelvariante Erwähnung 传统攀登
Alter Weg Schartenspreize 传统攀登
Alter Weg Winkelvariante 传统攀登
Bergweg 传统攀登
Ostgrat 传统攀登
IV/2 Bergweg Sprungvariante 传统攀登
V Südriss 传统攀登
Südriss Erwähnung 传统攀登
VI !Alter Weg Hangelvariante 传统攀登
VIIIa Osterhase 混合传统攀岩 2
VIIIb Ameisenbande 混合传统攀岩 2
Weg zu Höherem 混合传统攀岩 2
IXc Ameisenbiss 混合传统攀岩 4
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