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Kubus Guide

  • 难度体系: SX
  • 攀登: 94

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Georg Kretzschmar Benedikt Müller Peter Colditz Alma Tom Martok Player Two Quaste

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Kubus 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

季节分布

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.901351, 14.027808

准入问题

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

取自Sächsische Schweiz

行为准则

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
取自Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg

In der Scharte (Osten) geneigte Wand auf großen Vorblock. Wand zG.

首攀: unbekannt, 1960

III 传统攀登 10m
2 Alter Weg Tunnelvariante III 传统攀登
3 Kumpel lebt VIIb 混合传统攀岩 1
4 Alter Weg Aprilvariante III 传统攀登
5 Alter Weg Westvariante III 传统攀登
6 Böser Griff VIIb 混合传统攀岩 1
7 Alter Weg Nordvariante IV 传统攀登 10m
8 Alter Weg Gratvariante III 传统攀登
9 Wändchen III 传统攀登
10 Wändchen Erwähnung

Links vom "Wändchen" Kante zG.

IV 传统攀登
11 Alter Weg Ostvariante III 传统攀登 10m
12 Alter Weg Spreizvariante

Rechts der "Grünen Kante" Spreize (links Sanduhr) zu Absatz am großen Vorblock. "Alter Weg" zG.

首攀: Horst Heller, 1998

III 传统攀登
13 Ratte im Biomüll

3m vom "Alten Weg" Bauch und liegende Wand auf Vorblock. "Alter Weg" zG.

首攀: Felix Friedrich, H. C. Wacker & F. Nimsch, 26 9月 2021

VI 传统攀登 10m
14 Sachsenkrone VIIa 传统攀登
15 Grüne Kante

with support VIIa

VIIb 混合传统攀岩 1
16 Schartenwand VIIa 混合传统攀岩 8m, 1
17 Nervenbalsam VIIb 混合传统攀岩 1
18 Nachträglich VIIb 混合传统攀岩 1
19 Verzweiflung IXa 混合传统攀岩 2
20 Regenhangel VI 传统攀登 13m
21 Südwestkante VI 传统攀登
22 Südwestkante Erwähnung / Sieben auf einen Streich

2m rechts der "Südwestkante" Wand (gezogener Ring) zur Kante.

Im 2000er Führer aufgeführt, im 2020er nur noch erwähnt, Ring gezogen.

首攀: Steffen Bartsch & Ramona Petrik, 1997

VIIa 混合传统攀岩 1
23 !Dorsal VIIIc 传统攀登
24 Rückseite

with support VIIa

XIa 混合传统攀岩 1
25 Halsstarre

AF IXa

IXb 传统攀登
26 Kumpeltod VIIc 传统攀登
27 Winkelweg III 传统攀登
28 Schartensprung VIIa 5 混合传统攀岩 1
29 Nerv VIIb 5 混合传统攀岩 1
30 Stumpfe Kante

Wo? Hier gelistet.

VIIc 传统攀登

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
III Alter Weg 传统攀登 10m
Alter Weg Aprilvariante 传统攀登
Alter Weg Gratvariante 传统攀登
Alter Weg Ostvariante 传统攀登 10m
Alter Weg Spreizvariante 传统攀登
Alter Weg Tunnelvariante 传统攀登
Alter Weg Westvariante 传统攀登
Winkelweg 传统攀登
Wändchen 传统攀登
IV Alter Weg Nordvariante 传统攀登 10m
Wändchen Erwähnung 传统攀登
VI Ratte im Biomüll 传统攀登 10m
Regenhangel 传统攀登 13m
Südwestkante 传统攀登
VIIa Sachsenkrone 传统攀登
Schartenwand 混合传统攀岩 8m, 1
Südwestkante Erwähnung 混合传统攀岩 1
VIIa/5 Schartensprung 混合传统攀岩 1
VIIb Böser Griff 混合传统攀岩 1
Grüne Kante 混合传统攀岩 1
Kumpel lebt 混合传统攀岩 1
Nachträglich 混合传统攀岩 1
Nervenbalsam 混合传统攀岩 1
VIIb/5 Nerv 混合传统攀岩 1
VIIc Kumpeltod 传统攀登
Stumpfe Kante 传统攀登
VIIIc !Dorsal 传统攀登
IXa Verzweiflung 混合传统攀岩 2
IXb Halsstarre 传统攀登
XIa Rückseite 混合传统攀岩 1
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