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Kleines Bärenhorn Guide

  • 难度体系: SX
  • 攀登: 18

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Ben Stelzle Tillmann Franz Walther vilda_hkvdf Campbell Gome Peter Colditz DDjensl David M.

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Kleines Bärenhorn 56 routes in Cliff

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
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S
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季节分布

所有 传统攀登

Lat / Long: 50.905578, 14.266439

准入问题

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

取自Sächsische Schweiz

行为准则

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
取自Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abkürzung IXa 传统攀登
2 Abschneider IXa 传统攀登
3 Alter Weg II 传统攀登
4 Balkon VIIIb 传统攀登
5 Bärendach VIIIb 传统攀登
6 Bärenfalle

AF IXb

首攀: B. Arnold, 1984

IXc 混合传统攀岩 4
7 Bärenmix IXb 传统攀登
8 Bärenwand

首攀: G. Uhner, 1980

IXa 混合传统攀岩 35m, 3
9 Bärenzwinger Xa 传统攀登
10 Bauunternehmen VIIc 传统攀登
11 Direkte Südwestverschneidung

首攀: Bernd Arnold

VIIIb 混合传统攀岩 60m, 1
12 Direkter Balkon IXa 传统攀登
13 Direkter Südweg VIIc 传统攀登
14 Ein Wintertag VIIIc 传统攀登
15 Entropie / Entrophie

首攀: R.Reißig, 1993

Xa 混合传统攀岩 35m, 2, 5
16 Südweg Einstiegsvariante V 传统攀登
17 Gerade Variante VIIIc 传统攀登
18 Goldbärchen Xb 传统攀登
19 Gummibärenbande IXa 传统攀登
20 Heiße Wand VIIIb 传统攀登
21 Intermezzo VIIIb 传统攀登
22 Juliweg VIIc 传统攀登
23 Käpt'n Blaubär Xc 传统攀登
24 Talweg Kurze Variante VIIc 传统攀登
25 Lippenbär Xc 传统攀登
26 Luftschloss Xb 传统攀登
27 Lukullus VIIc 传统攀登
28 Neuer Talweg VIIc 传统攀登
29 Nordostwand V 传统攀登
30 Nordwestweg III 传统攀登
31 Nordweg VIIc 传统攀登
32 Pollenflug IXb 传统攀登
33 Querfeldein VIIIb 传统攀登
34 Querfeldein direkt IXa 传统攀登
35 Schartenwand VIIa 传统攀登
36 Spaltenfolge IV 传统攀登
37 Spiel der Mücken VIIc 传统攀登
38 Südostweg IV 传统攀登
39 Südwand VIIIa 传统攀登
40 Gerade Südwand VIIIb 传统攀登
41 Südweg IV 传统攀登
42 Südwestverschneidung

AF VIIc

首攀: Herbert Wünsche & H. Rost, 1949

VIIIa 混合传统攀岩 60m, 1
43 Südwestweg III 传统攀登
44 Talweg VIIb 传统攀登
45 Tanz der Bären VIIIb 混合传统攀岩 20m, 3
46 Überhängende Wand IXa 传统攀登
47 Südwestweg Variante III 传统攀登
48 Talweg Variante VIIb 传统攀登
49 Südostwand Variante III 传统攀登
50 Variantionen VIIc 传统攀登
51 Südwestverschneidung Variationen VIIIa 传统攀登
52 Vergissmeinnicht V 传统攀登
53 Vollständig neue Version IXa 传统攀登
54 Westkante VIIa 传统攀登
55 Jägermeister

首攀: Uwe Richter, 4 11月 2018

Xa/Xb 混合传统攀岩 40m, 8
56 Wilde Jagd

首攀: B. Arnold, 1983

Xa 混合传统攀岩 40m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
II Alter Weg 传统攀登
III Nordwestweg 传统攀登
Südostwand Variante 传统攀登
Südwestweg 传统攀登
Südwestweg Variante 传统攀登
IV Spaltenfolge 传统攀登
Südostweg 传统攀登
Südweg 传统攀登
V Nordostwand 传统攀登
Südweg Einstiegsvariante 传统攀登
Vergissmeinnicht 传统攀登
VIIa Schartenwand 传统攀登
Westkante 传统攀登
VIIb Talweg 传统攀登
Talweg Variante 传统攀登
VIIc Bauunternehmen 传统攀登
Direkter Südweg 传统攀登
Juliweg 传统攀登
Lukullus 传统攀登
Neuer Talweg 传统攀登
Nordweg 传统攀登
Spiel der Mücken 传统攀登
Talweg Kurze Variante 传统攀登
Variantionen 传统攀登
VIIIa Südwand 传统攀登
Südwestverschneidung 混合传统攀岩 60m, 1
Südwestverschneidung Variationen 传统攀登
VIIIb Balkon 传统攀登
Bärendach 传统攀登
Direkte Südwestverschneidung 混合传统攀岩 60m, 1
Gerade Südwand 传统攀登
Heiße Wand 传统攀登
Intermezzo 传统攀登
Querfeldein 传统攀登
Tanz der Bären 混合传统攀岩 20m, 3
VIIIc Ein Wintertag 传统攀登
Gerade Variante 传统攀登
IXa Abkürzung 传统攀登
Abschneider 传统攀登
Bärenwand 混合传统攀岩 35m, 3
Direkter Balkon 传统攀登
Gummibärenbande 传统攀登
Querfeldein direkt 传统攀登
Vollständig neue Version 传统攀登
Überhängende Wand 传统攀登
IXb Bärenmix 传统攀登
Pollenflug 传统攀登
IXc Bärenfalle 混合传统攀岩 4
Xa Bärenzwinger 传统攀登
Entropie 混合传统攀岩 35m, 2, 5
Wilde Jagd 混合传统攀岩 40m, 3
Xa/Xb Jägermeister 混合传统攀岩 40m, 8
Xb Goldbärchen 传统攀登
Luftschloss 传统攀登
Xc Käpt'n Blaubär 传统攀登
Lippenbär 传统攀登
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