Grade | 线路 | 线路类型 | 路线质量 | |||
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星期二 28th 5月 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6c | ★★ Masl ap ston tako | ★★ 很好 | ||||
A variation with its own crux being the traverse to pass to trafos, nice one.
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7a | ★★★ 1-2-3 niaou | 20m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Did it last year, avoids the first blank boulder problem of mpampatzianiki and has some amazing moves on the arête.
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星期二 28th 5月 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
7a | ★★★ Megas trapos | 28m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Did it last year, amazing finishing overhanging crux.
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星期二 28th 5月 2024 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7a | ★★ George costanza | 35m, 17 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Did it last year nice one used knee pad
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7a | ★★ One kick | 35m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Done it last year, hard crux on the top with some hard to clip draws and some quick decisions.
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7c/c+ | ★★★ Vivere pericolosamente | 20m, 11 | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
Did it last year, went directly on the first crux ,i think its a bit easier than 8a, 7c/+ is my suggestion.
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星期一 20th 5月 2024 - Nestani | ||||||
Voulomeni | ||||||
6c | ★ Κόμπλα — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice bouldery route, even though the bolting is dense, in the crux its intimidating for the onsight making you do the crux unclipped and having to clip the next bolt once you are almost over it. Its seems though that there used to be a bolt just at the right place so you could have some sense of security while doing this slabby move but it was rebolted?? in this way. Anyhow go for the os if you put the quickdraws from the adjacent route 😛
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星期一 20th 5月 2024 - Lagada | ||||||
Aloni | ||||||
6c | ★★ Hrisomallon Deras | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Did the crux but bailed afterwards didn't want to climb on a polished corner in this heatwave and with committing run-outs.
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6b+ | ★★ Kremasmenos Tragos | 25m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Last of the day could have gone but was to tired to stay on the holds waiting for the person on the left to stop stepping on the shared holds that i wanted to go...
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6b+ | ★★ Gerokoutsouris | 25m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Did the crux but misread the last part and went to a blank part, the best of the easiest of this sector.
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6b | ★ Xeroelatos | 25m, 10 | ★ 好 | |||
5b | ★ Shake It | 18m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | |||
5b+ | ★★ Moro Mou Sorry | 18m, 8 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期一 20th 5月 2024 - Lagada | ||||||
Petsanes | ||||||
6a+ | ★ Lykos tou Ragia | 30m | ||||
Dirty and very close to its left neighbour, i would put the bolts more to the right so people would climb directly into the overhang making it harder but much better.
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5c | ★ Lykourgos | 20m, 10 | 一般 | |||
Dirty and very close to its right neighbour
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5c+ | ★★ Leonidas | 30m | ★★ 很好 | |||
6a+ | ★★ The 300 | 25m | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
The best of this side if the crag
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6b+ | ★★ Dionysos | 25m | ★★ 很好 | |||
6b | Orea Eleni | 25m | 一般 | |||
To do a 6b you need to bypass the crux to the left on the adjacent route, if you stay in the route expect a hard 6c
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6b | ★★ Menelaos | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
6a+ | ★★★ Ermione | 20m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
星期天 10th 3月 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Grifos | 20m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
6c/c+ ~6c | ★★ Antonis | 15m | ★ 好 | |||
Slabby climbing, a foothold broke and lost the os. 6c/+ according to the bolter seems more appropriate
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6c+ | ★★★ Tsaperdona | 30m | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
Very very beautiful.
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星期六 9th 3月 2024 - Solomos | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Enigma | 25m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A bit vegetated at parts and no chalk plus a main hold was blocked by dirt-wasp nest, so very hard to read for the os. Cleaned it and left chalk so good for the os now,at least before the next rain,but hard comparing even with the 7a's at the right part of the crag.
Beautiful wall climbing though.
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6a+ | ★★ Filandia | 24m, 14 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
6b | ★★★ Trabakoulas | 30m, 12 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Grifos | 20m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
The main hold at the end of the crux was blocked by dirt nest and had to bail at the os, all cleaned now.
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星期六 6th 1月 2024 - Zaloggo | ||||||
Koloneta | ||||||
6b+/c | ★★★ The strugglers | 25m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Another newbie, a classic to be tufa fest with an easy to spot crux and easier moves on the rest of the route. A bit harder than its 6b+ neighbour to the right so 6b+/c .
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5c+/6a | ★★ Lepista nuda | 18m, 7 | ||||
New additions to this wonderful crag, the easiest so far but very beautiful nevertheless. A good intro for the sector.
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星期天 3rd 12月 2023 - Merenda | ||||||
Kato Merenda | ||||||
6a+ | ★★ Fidelio | 15m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
6a | ★★ Francky Wild | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Mary Popins | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期六 2nd 12月 2023 - Solomos | ||||||
6b | ★★ Trypitsa Ext. | 45m, 15 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
5b | ★★ Trypitsa | 20m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
6c | ★★ Gripi | 30m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
The last jug before the anchor needs cleaning with a hammer cause it's blocked from wasp nests.
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5c+ | ★★ Lais | 26m, 13 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Mavri Apolafsi ext. | 28m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
5b | ★★ Mavri Apolafsi | 14m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
星期四 20th 7月 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a Hard | Morchella esculenta | 25m, 11 | ||||
A long and enjoyable route right on the edge of the canyon on a magnificent place, with lots of endurancy moves that culminate at a hard rock over to get over the lip and to the final slab. Hard
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星期六 15th 7月 2023 - Parnitha | ||||||
Korakofolia Main Wall | ||||||
7c | ★★ Thima - with Art Vandelay | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Lost the trail and did 40min approach instead of 10 at maybe the hottest day of the summer (40 degrees at the crag), decided to try this one😛😛 did most of the moves most of the crux was impossible in this heat....at least we had korakofolia all to ourselves in a summer day a rarity but makes a lot of sense.
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星期四 13th 7月 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Deos lower | ||||||
7a/a+ | Einai exthros mou | 20m, 9 | ||||
A hard traverse right after the crux makes for the grade 7a/+
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6c/c+ | ★★ Einai filos mou | 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Some morpho moves at the crux
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7a | ★★★ Tsipouro probatina 8a se ena mina | 15m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Another short beauty
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7a+ | ★★ Verpa bohemica | 15m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Power endurance
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6c | ★★ Verpa conica | 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Shortie but unforgiving
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6b+/c | ★★★ Los zombies hippies | 15m, 7 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Very beautiful cruxy finale on pockets
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6b+ | ★★ Primula vulgaris | 20m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Endurancy first part and cryxy finale
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6b/b+ | ★★ Art Vandelay | 20m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Hard start to cruxy water groove
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星期四 13th 7月 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
7a/a+ | ★★ Blocololopoulos | 20m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
a hard power endurance crux a bit morpho 7a/+
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星期四 13th 7月 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c | ★★ Mikros timpanistis | 30m, 14 | ★★ 很好 | |||
long and enjoyable moves on tufa territory
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6a+ | ★★ Mikros timpanistis (first part) | 18m | ★★ 很好 | |||
an airy crux on good holds nice one
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7c | ★★★ Madly dangerous | 20m, 9 | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
one of the best power endurance routes i have ever climbed, 2 very diferrent parts with minimum rest and very beatyfull moves a must.
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7b | ★★★ Leno in pericolo | 15m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
The first crux of vivere pericolosmente, a hard slab on very thin long moves on small crimps and ver bad feet. Not classic cause its a bit morpho thus the slash grade.
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星期二 6th 6月 2023 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7b | ★★★ Papa al. | 10m, 5 | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
Finally this highball went down, 7a+ if you have the flexibility of a yoga teacher like the first ascender, 7b for "normal" people. But for me very very hard i don't know if it were for the very bad conditions or if this route was just a bad nemesis for me. Gave it so many tries like i would in a route above the 8a grade and in the end the send try was a very bad one i had to dig very deep and it never felt easy as it would normally feel in any other route after so many tries.
Hopefully it ended and now i can focus on some harder projects that will go down in less tries😁.
As for the climbing a superb marble highball if i graded as a boulder i would say 7A. Kneepads are needed
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星期四 23rd 2月 2023 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
7a | ★ Schaeffer — 2 attempts | 20m, 9 | ★ 好 | |||
The direct variation of the crux of Cyril sneer, a hard 6B+ boulder prob. on a small incut but slippery crimp. Needs cold temps and maybe harder for the short.
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星期天 22nd 1月 2023 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park Alogopetra area Pano Alogopetra | ||||||
6c | ★★ Koulouvahata | 27m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Very nice wall climbing
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6a+ | ★★ Kolosseo | 20m | ★★ 很好 | |||
Nice one
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6c | ★★ Babylino | 12m, 5 | ★ 好 | |||
Didn't read it well , but wouldn't have gone cause of the very polished footholds at the crux, found a beta fir the crux without the polished section.
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星期六 21st 1月 2023 - Ermionida | ||||||
Thermissia Castle Venetian Wall | ||||||
6a | ★★ In the Red Corner | 18m | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
Strange start helps if you're flexible and then a really nice crack.
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7a | ★★★ The Leading Edge (direct) | 14m | ★★★ 经典 | |||
A hard traverse on smears to reach the arete, could have gone if it weren't for the heavy winds
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星期六 21st 1月 2023 - Ermionida | ||||||
Katafyki Ravine Welcome | ||||||
6c+ | ★★★ Sidestep | 25m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
6c on thd free local guide, really nice crux moves on the overhanging corner, easier after that but enjoyable
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7a | ★★★ Savage Girl | 30m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
7a in the local free guidebook, very nice climbing with 3 cruxes with the late 2 on desperate wall moves.
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星期三 18th 1月 2023 - Aliakmonas | ||||||
7a | ★ Karagiozis/Karagiozakos | 20m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Followed the chalk and lost the os, a bit slippery and polished crack. Later found much easier beta than the one used for the crux but due to rain and cold didn't give a proper attempt.
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6b | ★★ Moggolian street | 70m, 20 | ★ 好 | |||
First pitch only 5c
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星期天 4th 12月 2022 - Nafplio | ||||||
Kato Kosmos | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Kerberos | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Even though i was very tired i went to see it bolt to bolt to check the grades of my f.a. back home. I managed to do all the moves and would have gone second max third try if i was at 100%. Amazing route on tufas not that hard to os if you have thd power.
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6b+/c | ★★ Hermes | ★★ 很好 | ||||
Lost it cause the rope stuck at the tufa otherwise very good.
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6c | ★★ Hades | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Another classic, amazing moves on tufas.
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6c+ | ★★ Acherontas | ★★★ 经典 | ||||
Hard to os + no chalk but i read it good and did the crux but didn't have the Juice necessary to finish it after 7 days climbing in a row so i lost it at the last moves before the anchor. Amazing route tricky to os but no that hard overall a must for sure.
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5c+/6a | ★★ Samsara | 16m, 7 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Very beautiful
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星期六 3rd 12月 2022 - Parnitha | ||||||
Fyli Climbing Park EPOS Fylis / Mikri Varassova EPOS Fylis | ||||||
5c+ | ★★ Iliovasilema | 23m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Again felt easier but real nice
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5c | ★★ Panselinos | 21m, 12 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Felt much easier but nice
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6c | ★★ Arpages | 30m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Hard to os specially if you follow the chalk, found easier beta after i fell. Not that hard considering that the rest of the route is easygoing but harder than the other 6c of the sector.
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星期五 2nd 12月 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
6a+/b | ★★ Mr mammoth | 30m, 16 | ★★ 很好 | |||
The latest addition at "raccoons" sector, long and enjoyable with crux on long moves on jugs.
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星期二 29th 11月 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+/c | ★★★ Unfazed | 32m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Really hard to grade this one, hard 7a+ till the last bolt and with a hard very technical boulder problem that finishes with huge foot-off swing on sloppery/slippery "jugs" to get to the anchor. For sure very morpho and my style totally so will leave it at 7b+/c for now.
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星期天 13th 11月 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon The raccoons | ||||||
5b+ | ★★ Sophia tutu | 12m, 4 | ★★ 很好 | |||
A new addition, slab start to pocketed wall. A good warm-up for the sector or a good route for the first lead.
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星期天 13th 11月 2022 - Kastritsa | ||||||
kastritsa Right Tekmon Tekmon Main | ||||||
7b+ | ★★★ Tony the Tiger | 30m, 14 | ★★★ 超级经典 | |||
A contender for the best route of the crag: slab and tufas start to hard crimpy first crux to overhang on good holds with desperate balancy slab finish second crux to overhanging finale... An amazing route that needs finger strength, good footwork/flexibility and endurance.
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星期天 25th 9月 2022 - Pades | ||||||
First Area middle | ||||||
6b | ★ Nimo | 20m, 9 | ★ 好 | |||
Hard slab bouldery start then easier slab.
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星期六 17th 9月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
6b 6b/b+ | ★★ Tsoumpa flor | 15m, 5 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Bolted this one for the boulder problem in the start, a marble delicacy. After that a very easy slab to the anchor.
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星期六 17th 9月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6c | ★★ Verliga | 15m, 6 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Starts with the first 2 bolts of tsoukarela and then continues to the left. A hard but with beautiful marble features middle part with a crux involving a small 2 finger pocket.
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星期二 13th 9月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
The nest | ||||||
7a+ | ★★ G.furnaris | 30m, 13 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Very hard bouldery start and unfortunately very morphological for the short every other alternative beta is very very hard. One of those routes that u enjoy only when u send and never try again.
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星期天 11th 9月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
7a 7a/a+ | ★★★ Blackberry song | 20m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Hard power endurance start that eases up in the middle with a good rest and finishes with a tricky boulder. My favourite style, hard to grade harder than 7a but not 7a+ somewhere in between so slash grade to infuriate the purists 😛😛.
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星期二 6th 9月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c+ | ★★ Brazilian souls | 10m, 5 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Marble climbing, hard bouldery and very technical, very crucial kneebar without which can seem 2 grades harder, but very very beautiful.
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星期天 28th 8月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c | ★★ Sefera | 30m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Hard bouldery start on marble to a balancy middle part to a slab finale.
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星期四 25th 8月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
6b | ★★★ Jerry | 18m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
The last "project" of the sector, bolted this one last year as the last route of the sector but didn't had time to clean and send till today. A very beautiful route sustained,better done in the summer so the belayer stands on the small "island" underneath.
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6c | ★★ Hamlet fox | 18m, 11 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
So nice to find already ascended routes. Very beautiful imho but hard, 6c/+.
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星期四 18th 8月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Natural mystic | ||||||
6b+ | ★★ Cinnamon | 18m, 9 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Starts over the river with easy moves on marble and continues with sustained long moves till the anchor.
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6c | ★★★ & strawberry | 18m, 10 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
The direct start of cinnamon, a bouldery start needing good balance on marble will leed to the sustained climbing of cinnamon.
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星期天 17th 7月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Kremala | ||||||
6c | ★★★ Passo carrabile | 18m, 8 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
After i cleaned Pa'lante i realized that this big route is actually 2 routes one on top of each other separated by a big ledge in the middle and with a very different character so I decided to put an anchor in the middle. Passo carrabile is sustained and with a hard slab crux that needs very good footwork and can seem harder. On the other part after the first anchor you face an immediate bouldery crux that finishes with a small roof and after that eases until the anchor. Amazing routes both.
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6c+ 6c+/7a | ★★★ Pa'lante | 28m, 14 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
6c+/7a
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星期五 15th 7月 2022 - Paliochori | ||||||
Pitsili beach | ||||||
6c 6c+ | ★★ Frank Costanza | 30m, 15 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Cruxy finale
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6a | ★★ Grimly | 25m, 14 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Long and enjoyable
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7a | ★★ Softie (thira) | 28m, 10 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Hard bouldery start to easier long slab.
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7a | ★★★ Reverse psychology | 25m, 9 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Amazing compression moves on the first cruxy part to easier endurancy finale.
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6a+ | ★★★ Tegridy | 18m, 6 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Chimney and overhanging crux one of the best in this grade.
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7a | ★★ Randy (Randy (Tegridy extension)) | 30m, 11 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Hard bouldery moves lead to slabby finale.
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6c | ★★ Tegridy direct | 18m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Crimpfest
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5c | ★★ Saitama | 15m, 7 | ★★★ 经典 | |||
Hard start to amazing bridging moves.
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6c 6b+/c | ★★ One punch (One punch (saitama extension)) | 30m, 12 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Amazing rock formation and moves.
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6a+ | ★★ Nique la police | 15m, 7 | ★★ 很好 | |||
Seems grim but fun climbing.
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