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Grail

  • 难度体系: FR
  • 照片: 3
  • 攀登: 26
  • Aka: Kelch
2
FR

季节分布

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准入问题 取自Meteora

Generally, rock formations with inhabited monasteries should not be climbed. Preserve all other historical remains.

行为准则 取自Meteora

Traditionally, Meteora was in great parts explored by climbers with background from Saxon Switzerland (East Germany), translating to ringbolts, leadbolting and runouts. However, there is also some mainstream sport climbing to be found.

线路

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Grade 线路
1 5 25m
2 6- 25m
3 5 40m
4 3 20m
5 6 A1 20m

Easily the most photogenic route in Meteora, due to the step-across move.

P1, P2: 3/7 bolts. Can be linked together with 60m ropes. Slab climbing with a few steep sections.

P3: Thin slab climbing then a chimney and a water groove, belay on a ledge to the right. 1 bolt, good cam placements.

P4: Walk up to the first summit, beware of loose rock. Belay on top on the summit, not the rappel anchor on the wall. No bolts.

P5: The icing of the cake. Down-climb to the fixed rope, use it to lean across and clip the bolt, than do the step-across. Traverse left then follow the crack and face to the top. 7 bolts, takes small cams.

There's a rappel anchor across the summit plateau and a bit to the left. Two overhanging 45m rappels to the ground. Alternatively there's another to the right from which you can descent through "Spiralweg".

1 5c+
2 6a
3 6a+
4 6a+

You need double ropes

A couple of medium sized cams could come in handy for the final pitch that might feel a bit run out.

The crack is easier than it looks.

Exposed

Take care for the descent

The rap station is the left hand one, climbers left, as you top out, So you end up closer to the start of the route.

And you need 2 ropes, the second rap is 45m+ And people have gotten stack with an 80m rope.

There I a typographic mistake in the newest guidebook about the length of the rappel.

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Selected Guidebooks more 隐藏

作者: Vangelis Batsios

日期: 2023

国际书号: 9786180046649

A selective guidebook describing 206 of the best classic multi-pitch routes at Meteora, covering both traditional and modern routes.

作者: Vangelis Batsios

日期: 2022

国际书号: 9786180037999

A comprehensive guidebook describing the sport climbing found at Meteora, Theopetra, Sarakina, and Agia Paraskev, covering 319 routes.

作者: Thierry Souchard

日期: 2017

This digital guidebook presents a selection of 22 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. This selection is perfect for a first visit and reflets all the variety of climbing on the Meteora conglomerate towers. Indeed, contrary to popular opinion, climbing in the Meteora is very diverse, alternating between slabby sections, steep rock walls on pebbles of all sizes, and even overhangs in the gullies. The selected routes reflect this, proposing routes of varying styles, of which the vast majority are on sound rock and are relatively well protected (with the exception of a few must-do classics that feature the original runout lengths). Bolted 6b grade is required (runout up to 6a)  Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.

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