线路 如同传统攀登 in Gruppo del Sella

Wonderful climbing on good rock.

Gear

1 set of BD Cams up to size 2, possibly hammer and pegs, the 9 used stand pegs were left.

Approach

from the Gardena Pass, 2125 m, down the road to Corvara, park at the first bend in the road. 100m over meadow ascents (N) and follow the path to the Forcelles refuge. Continue on a level below the south wall until you can see the wall on the left, then immediately turn left along a path to the entrance. 1.30 hours

Descent

via marked path to the Crespëina pass, 2528 m (W), then down and up to the Cir pass, 2466m (path no. 2), from here down again to the Clark hut, 2222m, over meadows back to the road bend. 1.30 hours

https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/meisules-torre-orientale-gruppo-del-sella-via-giulia/

Northwest Edge of the Meisules.

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/lnein-meisules-dala-biesces/

https://www.ormeverticali.it/relazioni/meisules-dala-biesces-lnein/

Gear:

Black Diamond Friends 2 & 3

Hannes Schnitzer, Sepp Auer, Walter Obergolser, Pföstl Peter,

After passing the Lokomotiv, go along the southwest wall of the First Tower until you reach a recess, with pillars on the right and left. The route runs along the evident dihedral slightly inclined to the right.

1. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack. Anchor on pitons, to the left of the crack immediately after the small vertical section. (30m, III)

2. Climb the slightly right-trending crack. Before the crack becomes vertical, traverse 2-3 to the right to a small ledge with the anchor (1 big glue-in bolt). (35 m, IV-)

3. Climb over the easy overhang above the belay, then slightly left to the dihedral. Follow the dihedral, past a steeper polished section protected by a bolt, until you reach a good belay on a ledge. (1 bent glue-in bolt + 2 pitons). (35m, V+)

4. Follow the dihedral up, to the right of the small column, following the slightly polished crack. Continue until the next belay (1 glue-in bolt). (35m, III+) 1 piton.

5. 2 options for this pitch:

a) Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Anchor on two glue-in bolts in the middle of the ledge.

b) Continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge, belay on two pitons, OR belay on the right of this directly under the chimney of the final pitch (2 glue-in bolts). (25m, IV-)

1. Traverse another 2-3 meters to the right on the ledge, then follow the yellowish rocks up the chimney to the top. From here, via easy rocks, exit onto the wide ridge that leads to the top of the tower and the anchor (1 glue-in bolt). (30m, IV-) 2 pitons

2. Optional to reach summit: Follow the path to the left to reach the summit of the 1st Sella Tower. (40m, I)

Descent:

a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m).

OR

b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns.

At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II.

Here, the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II).

Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot.

Primo tiro in comune con via dei Pilastrini ultimo in comune con via dei Camini

Primo tiro in comune con via Fiechtl ultimi due in comune con via dei Camini

At the base of the SE face, looking at the grey pillars/buttresses, scramble up the rocks (I-II) aiming for the three cracks/chimneys that cut the wall at the start of vertical rock. The route starts on a small terrace at the base of these cracks, following the right-most chimney in the corner. There is 1 cemented piton and 1 normal piton.

As with all classic Dolomites routes, there are lots of variations to the pitch lengths/directions:

1. Go up the short chimney, left at the top, then up a short distance to the anchor (1 glue-in piton with ring). (35m, IV/III, 2 pitons)

2. Go up through the chimney/crack above the belay, then up the next wall, either deviating left or going straight up the corner crack, until you reach a grassy ledge. Continue past the bolt & ring. Continue up some more grassy steps until the base of the chimney and the anchor (1 bolt). (20m, III+, IV-, III +)

3. Climb the chimney to the left of the anchor, continue all the way to the top (V-). Easier (IV-): follow the crack to the right, directly above the belay (not the chimney in the corner). At its end, go 1-2m more, up the little free-standing column and the chimney until you reach an obvious ledge between the two chimneys on the main wall. Traverse left along the ledge to the left chimney, to the left of the anchor below. Follow the easy chimney to the top with the anchor (1 glue-in bolt + ring). (15m, IV-, 2 pitons).

4. Easy scrambling leads you to the top of the pillar with one bolt. A thrilling 1-metre jump of faith takes you across the sucking void to the anchor (Glue-in bolt with ring). (20m, II, 1 bolt, 1 piton)

5. Go straight up from the belay for about 3 meters, then continue upwards over easy scrambling. One more small vertical sections leads you to the top of the climb, where you belay (1 glue-in piton) off a large boulder with some rubble, sligthly to the left. (30m, III +, II)

To reach the summit, walk up to the right around the boulder and scramble to the summit rocks.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/SELLA_foto/PRIMA%20TORRE_camini_sito.jpg

Beautiful climb in sound rock, some pitons in the route. It starts in the center of the north face.

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/TORRI_SELLA/VIA_MESSNER/schizzovia_messner.html

Takes a line up the centre of the 3rd Tower with a steep crack leading to the crux overhang above the big ledge at 2/3 height.

La via si sviluppa sull'avancorpo della torre

Nice climb. Friend 3

Beautiful climb with continues difficulty. Some pegs may be useful.

6-,5,5,6-,5,4+,5,4-

Divertente e classica, le difficoltà sono contenute negli ultimi due tiri

Attacco: dal tornante sotto le pareti dx del ciavazes imboccare il sentiero per il rifugio boe dopo che il sentiero scende ripido a un doppio tornante risalire a sinistra sotto lo spigolo clessidra all'attacco. per la via seguire i numerosi cordini in clessidra e spit blu soste su anelli cementati clessidre e alberi

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sasspordoi5/sasspordoi5.htm

https://www.alpenvereinaktiv.com/de/tour/sass-pordoi-ca.-2.700-m-nw-wand-dr.-luis-vii-ekn-vi-/65020059/

https://www.montialpago.it/page/plaisir.pdf

Nice climb in spectacular surrounding. The route traverses two waterfall, so it must be dry at the bottom.

To exit the wall on the summit continue with 'Via Dibona (superiore)'. To descend immediately follow the band to the right until you reach the Pordoi gap. There follow the hiking trail down to the Pordoi saddle.

Route upwards the tower at the south edge (7 pitches). From there it shares the last 5 pitches with the route "Maria" .

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_1/relazioni/SASS%20PORDOI_Pederiva_A.htm

Semifreddo climbs to the left of the classic Via Piaz.

Gear:

Full rack, 14 quickdraws, cams, pegs, slings

Attacco a una clessidra vicino a una lama a sinistra del canale. Primi due tiri sulla destra del canale, trasferimento 50m clessidra a sinistra del canale sulla torre. Salire a dx del canale. Tiro successivo attraversare il canale e procedere a sx appena sotto una nicchia gialla. Uscire a sx fino alla bare di una grande lama, poi dritti in vetta. Scendere sulla cresta sud 25m fino a una forcella, passare sulla parete est doppia 25m poi per prati direzione sud ovest fino all'attacco

Classical route along northwest edge of the tower, partly challenging route-finding in central part. Descend across plateau towards Pisciadu hut, then easy path.

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella11/sella11.htm