条目 |
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Zona Bolzano e Bassa atesina
As a major regional city, Bolzano/Bozen has an extraordinary variety of climbing on different rock types within a 30-45 minute drive of the centre of town. |
Sarner Scharte
Sarner Scharte is a large porphyr wall, approximately 400 metres in height, found in Sarntal/Val Sarentino, the valley north of Bolzano/Bozen. |
Sarner Scharte |
North Buttress
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
Sarner Scharte North Buttress |
7+
Kantenkarussel
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
8-
Rutschborn
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
Sarner Scharte |
Westgipfel
The west face of Sarner Scharte. |
Sarner Scharte Westgipfel |
5- Via...da Trento |
6+ A1
Schöne Aussicht
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
7+ A2
Bachlar Zottl
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
5
Steinkötter
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
6+
Sarner Kante
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
5
Sarner Verschneidung
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
4+
★★★ Gipfelkante
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
5
★★ Direkte Westverschneidung
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
8
★★★ Lokomotiv
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
Sarner Scharte |
Südwestgipfel
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
Sarner Scharte Südwestgipfel |
6
★★★ Engelskante
Engelskante is rightly one of the most famous tours of the Sarner Scharte - if you look up from the meadows below the reason for name is clear. The three pitches follow the the arete in the middle are wonderfully exposed and wonderful to climb. If you wish to enjoy the treats of the Schnapskastl (Schnapps Castle) on the southern summit, please bring more schnapps to leave. The route is wonderfully airy in partly demanding friction climbing. Thanks to the bolts added by Ulrich Messner in the 1990s, it is now possible to climb directly up the arete, although Holzer and Steinkötter probably followed a thin crack a little to the right of the arete. Originally rated V, it is now agreed to be a solid grade VI.
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4 Pescoller Verschneidung |
4+ ★★ Holzerkante |
6
★★★ Direkte Westwand
R2/II Einstieg über die ochar sepp Nach der 3 seillänge links gerade hinauf. Gut ersichtlich Die schwierigeren Seollängen sind mit Bohrhacken gut abgesichert. Die leichten Seillängen haben alpinen Charakter mit guten Absicherungsmöglichkeiten Rückzug im notfall über die route möglich. Ausqueren zur Holznerkante immer möglich Standplätze sind mit Bohrhacken und mobilen sicherungsmittel Expresschlingen 8 Halbseil 60 10 expr. |
6- Ochar Sepp |
7-
Sarner Streizl
Fatigue; there's a big fat uphill to slow you down. Coming from Bolzano, just before Sarentino/Sarthein, turn right up towards Riedlsberg/Montenovale. Follow this road for approx 6kms until Riedlhof. Park here, or 300m ahead at another carpark. |
Johanneskofel
One of the oldest developed crags near Bolzano. Located at the base of Johanneskofel near a small creek. |
Johanneskofel |
Sector Softpress |
Johanneskofel Sector Softpress |
7c+ ★★★ Softpress |
Johanneskofel |
Sector A |
Johanneskofel Sector A |
6b+ DOVE OSANO LE QUAGLIE |
7b SUPER PATTY |
Johanneskofel |
Sector B |
Johanneskofel Sector B |
6c LUNGA VITA AL RE |
6b+ CELLULITE SPRAY |
6c+ LA NUTELLOSA |
7b BALENA BIG |
6c+ FALLO PALOMA |
Johanneskofel |
Sector C |
Johanneskofel Sector C |
1. LEDA |
2. L'EGONAUTA |
7b 3. (L1) ARMADILLO SLEP |
7b+ 3.1 (L2) TARTARUGA STOP |
6b+ 4. (L1 + 2) FANCULINO DI MONTAGNA |
6c 5. (L1) SCALA DI SETA |
7a 5.1 (L2) ALLEGRO MA NON TROPPO |
7a 5.2 (L3) FORMICHIERE VOLANTE |
6. IN DER STRAFKOLONIE |
6c+ 7. PICCHIO ROBOT |
7a 8. (L1) PRIOGU E PROGU |
6b+ 8.1 (L2) JANAS IN SU BENTO |
6a 9. (L1 + L2) GIGI WORK |
6a 10. LA MANO |
Johanneskofel |
Sector D |
Johanneskofel Sector D |
6b+ PERFIDI PORFIDI |
7a+ ACIDO MARAMAO |
7a LE FIGLIE DI LILITH |
Johanneskofel |
Sector E |
Johanneskofel Sector E |
4 LA BELLA |
4 LA BESTIA |
2 VERMETTI |
Johanneskofel |
Sector F |
Johanneskofel Sector F |
6a CUORE DI GHIACCIO |
6b CIQUITO & PAQUITO |
5c ★★ LUMIERE |
6b+ TINK-PIT |
6b+ PETITE SMARGIASSO |
6a ★★★ ZIZZI GORRUSU |
6b+ PULCE CICENIZA |
7a FAVOLA IGNOTA |
6b+ SOGNI DI RAGNO |
6b+ KARMA KOMA |
6c+ A TOUT COEUR |
7b TE GE TASTA? |
6c POLIGAMO DI TIRO |
4c ★ LOVE STREET |
7a KILLER ROAD |
7b+ A JERA ORA |
4c ★ LA TOPINA |
3 CANALETTO |
8a Achtung Baustelle |
3 RENACONFRETTA |
6a FTA |
6a+ ★★ PERFORMANCE ON THE MOON |
6a ★★ AMORE DI GRUPPO |
3 ★ IGUANA FRITTA |
3 ★ SIGNOR MAIALE |
6a ★★ MUFASA |
Johanneskofel |
Sector H |
Johanneskofel Sector H |
7a BACI DI ROSPO |
Johanneskofel |
Sector G |
Johanneskofel Sector G |
6b RANFO |
6a SUPERMARIO |
6b+ GHETO FINIO? |
6b BAREA |
6a L'OTTO A |
6a BRUSA' |
7a CIODO DE PASSION |
KIT-KAT |
6c LITFIBA |
MIRY MIRY |
EMINENZA TENAR |
RISUOLATI LA SUORA |
7a+ SALAMANDRA KHAN |