攀登 in Lucca - Pisa - Massa having 攀爬攻略

The route's name is "Forno Express"

Hard start in overhanging movements, so be carefull at clipping the first two bolts. Than easier following the arete (keeping the right of the bolt line). Crux at the last two bolts.

Balancing movements for the first part than crux at the overhanging wall just before the chain

Hard start, I suggest to clip the first bolt with a stick. Than crux between second to third bolt. Easy the second part of the route. Tall people are advantaged.

Far bolting.

Far distance bolting.

Funny route.

Nice funny route, slab o the first part than a well- handled chimney. Pay attention placing the quick-draw on the first bolt and at the bolt before the chimney because these two bolts are equipped with an handcrafted hanger.

The route follow the bolts on the left side of the corner. First third is easy than the second third is on a not easy slab with far bolting (Easier on the right). Crux in the last third with a well protected overhanging wall.

Nice route and funny overhanging crux but bad bolting. The exit from the crux and the last protection before the chain are protected with a rope sling in a tunnel. Do not fall!

Route for beginners only top-rope. Not suggested for learning lead climbing because of very far bolting. Only 5 bolts along the route.

"La Serpe", tosta un paio di passaggi ma nel complesso fattibile.

nel complesso facile, a dx degli spit placca ben ammanigliata

sporca di vegetazione verso metà tiro (ulivo) che può anche aiutare. Tosto solo l'ultimo strapiombo ma spittato cortissimo

facile, unico punto leggermente delicato proprio lo strapiombetto post ultimo rinvio

Arrivando alla sosta alta c'è una pietra fondamentale che si sta staccando. Attenzione subito prima della sosta

Far bolting but crux well bolted

It's the route on the right. Be careful not to move small rocks with your feet in the first half of the route

Funny at the overhanging part. Pay attention when you move between the big rock and the overhanging wall because of moving rocks

It's the toute on the left. 5b+ suggested only for the crux at the smooth slab. Good pegging.

Far bolting

Old bolts and long distance (+3m). Dangerous crux at the overhanging parts due to bad pegging

constant difficulty along the route

Slippery in the overhanging part till the 4th bolt. Crux at 3rd bolt.

Attenzione sulla destra in alto, a me si è staccata una pietra

Crux at first 2 bolts

Crux at first 2 bolts

the route is quite slippery in the first half

the route is quite slippery in the first half

the route is slippery, far bolting for the grade

Great route

Polished crux

Polished but beautiful route, one loose rock near the end.

At the beginning nice technical, morpho crux.

One hard slab crux without any holds. Very long reachy move to the next jug.

quite slippery, obligatory sequence at third bolt

You can lower the grade if you keep the left at the crux

bad bolted at the start

quite slippery footholds

Nice! left wall was a bit wet -- didn't realize it went there.

I think this might actually be called "Sticky finger". Anyway, a really nice route. Second try. In the Vigiani guide as 7a+; I'd say soft 7b or very hard 7a+

Perfect warm up super nice and long